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Out & About #979 | Whole Wheat Tangzhong Bread, Crispy Chicken with Dijon Mustard + Tomato Curry

3/1/2024

 
​Rare is it to be overwhelmed with a desire to prepare a proper meal. Feeling inspired is a fleeting moment, and usually worth documenting should successful outputs materialize.
1) Whole Wheat Buns (with Tangzhong and Cold Proof)
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Ever since the materialization of Whole Wheat Pineapple Buns, there arose a distinct keenness to revisit the recipe for improved texture. The introduction of whole wheat into a traditionally bleached product was accidental, but ideal for those lacking in fibre (me) and ideal for testing whether whole wheat flour could achieve the same airiness as white flour. Essentially, I looked toward constructing a whole wheat brioche.

​​Often made using white flour, a brioche is an enriched dough defined by a number of elements: 
  • Eggs
  • Butter
  • Milk (or milk powder)
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The original intent had been to incorporate tangzhong into Zoe's Roti Sisir formula. However, the scaling of whole wheat bread flour for tangzhong, proposing too many variables to confirm data trends. Zoe's recipe utilized neither whole wheat bread flour nor tangzhong, nor specified whether the "flour" was all-purpose or bread!
Summoned instead was the tangzhong recipe that had earned me great success in the past. I adhered to the formula for the majority, but included some minor adjustments:

1. Microwave tangzhong
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Tangzhong was cooked in the microwave, mochi-style, as opposed to the stovetop on the sheer basis of convenience. Ingredient quantites were maintained consistent at 40 g bread flour and 200 g water. After mixing to disperse lumps, the medium-sized Pyrex bowl was subject to three rounds of 1-minute bursts at 1200 W, stirring after each minute. For the final round, I would observe closely, noting the size of any air bubbles in formation, and halt the heat to prevent a scorched surface and watery base. Once the paste had formed, it was covered tightly with cling film to prevent skin formation and chilled in the refrigerator for at least six hours.
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2. Kneading + Incorporation

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In contrast to the recipe, I did not allow the tangzhong to come to room temperature for 1h prior to using. The process of kneading of by hand would eliminate this step, for the its contact time with air would be longer than if incorporated using a stand mixer. Furthermore, I did not knead the dough with oil-covered hands, but rather just baking gloves.
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3. Substitutions

Similar to an SK confession, it is incredibly difficult to adhere to a recipe without foreign introductions or swaps (for either curiosity or convenience). My ingredient modifications consisted of:
  • 260 g milk → 260 g water
  • 50 g egg → 1 egg (approx. 53 g)
  • 50 g unsalted butter → unmeasured quantity of unsalted butter; perhaps 60 g?
  • 1 egg yolk + milk for egg wash → 1 egg + heavy cream

The elimination of milk was not to subtract from the concoction's richness, but rather to preserve the minimal amount of milk in the household for other uses (drinking, cereal, etc.). It was also to facilitate the introduction of warm liquid, for I despised the thought of warming the milk in a separate vessel and the consequential increase in dish count. The other substitutions/adjustments were executed strictly on the basis of convenience, including prevention of leftover ingredients.
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​Finalized ingredients for this iteration are as follows:

A. Tangzhong
  • 40g  bread flour
  • 200g water

B. Dough
  • 580 g bread flour
  • 60 g  sugar
  • 12 g  salt
  • 10 g  dry yeast
  • 10 g  milk powder
  • 260 g water
  • 1 egg
  • Tangzhong
  • 60-65 g unsalted butter, softened
  • egg wash  ̶(̶1̶ ̶e̶g̶g̶ ̶y̶o̶l̶k̶ ̶+̶ ̶m̶i̶l̶k̶)̶ (1 egg + heavy cream)

The yield was: 6 whole wheat rolls (355 F for 15-20 mins) and 1 loaf (355 F for 25 mins).
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​4. Cold Proofing
​

The first proof was conducted at room temperature, enclosed in a cold oven for 3 hours. The dough was observed to triple in volume during this time. After kneading and shaping, the second proof would be decelerated using the cold-proofing method. Six buns and one loaf would proof at 7 degrees Celsius for 12 hours, and brought to room temperature the morning after just before baking.
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Before cold proof
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After cold proof
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Utterly unplanned was this step, but given the hecticness of my day and required duration of the first proof, cold-proofing ensured uninterrupted sleep and a more flexible baking schedule. Moreover, it enabled me to enjoy freshly-baked bread for breakfast with minimal effort.
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​Although one ought not disregard the painstakingly long process to realization, the results were indeed formidable. Never had I sampled a softer whole wheat bun in my lifetime! Encased within a wispy thin crust was the most plush interior I ever had the luxury of sampling. The hearty aspect of whole wheat remained, but the interior suggested an impressive airiness that overturned the dense nature of the Roti Sisir recipe.

Naturally, I was also curious towards the loaf version, which baked for 5-10 minutes longer due to its larger size and reduced exposed surface area. Upon removal from its pan - greased and floured meticulously, mind you! - one could observe beautiful coils and evenly browned edges. That said, the bread pull was the true testament of quality.
In addition to delicate air bubbles and a stable, uniform gluten structure were feathery shards of softness - in abundance too! The sight of the layers had me absolutely elated; a taste test further confirmed their pliable nature. Tangzhong was indeed pivotal for such a supple provision.
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​Of course, the bread rolls are great on their own, but even more delectable with butter or homemade pineapple jam.

Sandwich-ready portions were enjoyed on the following morning smothered with peanut butter and topped with banana slices. The slice had been toasted lightly to enhance its crunch factor. While the edges were dry to the touch, I must admit some degree of amazement that the centre retained moistness in the process. The single slice was craggy, hearty, and absolutely gratifying.
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Conclusions spanning the following were drawn:
  • Enriched whole wheat dough is possible!
  • For bread flour amounts exceeding 300 g, a stand mixer is advised for uniform mixing. Kneading by hand is possible if comprehensive, albeit tiring.
  • Using water instead of milk did not noticeably distract from the loaf's flavour profile
  • Cold proofing permits a more flexible baking schedule, as well as availability of freshly-baked bread in the morning, if desired
  • Tangzhong is absolutely pivotal for texture: it preserves moisture while maintaining structure and yields feathery shards of plushness.
  • Plan accordingly if using tangzhong, for it increases total process time by at least 6h (or until it cools to room temperature). Total active and passive time from initiation to oven shutoff averages at 24 hours with cold proof (or 12 h without cold proof).
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2) Roast Chicken with Dijon Mustard Sauce
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This recipe had resided on my radar for quite some time now. Crispy chicken and Dijon mustard sounded like a stellar pairing, and an innovative one at that. Though, browning chicken skin was not for the faint of heart. I readied myself accordingly before undertaking the greasy venture.
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​Using drumsticks instead of chicken thigh both assisted and hindered the process. There was less surface area to accommodate crispiness, which alluded to a quicker browning process. That said, there was also more diligence involved, as the small pieces would require constant flipping to cover all sides evenly. After all, drumsticks were round, not flat like chicken thighs.

Hot oil splatters were inevitable, as were greasy fumes that permeated every pore and thread in the vicinity.
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​Once the browning had finished, the drumsticks were transferred to a baking sheet lined with greased aluminum foil. These pieces would then bake, skin side up, at 450 F for 25 minutes. Meanwhile, the rendered chicken fat would be used in the formation of a Dijon mustard sauce.

​Instead of two small shallots and a mere sprinkle of chives to finish, I boosted the amount of aromatics in the sauce by sautéeing onions and minced garlic in the chicken grease with salt and sugar. (Shallots also did not happen to be readily available.) Mirin was added next, as a sweeter swap for the specified "dry, white wine", followed by a heaping portion of smooth Dijon mustard. The interim check saw extreme pungency, which I neutralized with a large spoonful of honey, whose silky qualities, unfortunately, did not emerge in the final product. Lastly came a splash of heavy cream, water in place of low-sodium chicken broth, and a sprinkle more of salt. I was thankful to have forgotten to season the chicken, for the mustardy condiment ultimately revealed itself too salty after boiling and reducing.
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​The single chicken dish involved a tremendous amount of labour, pans, and heat sources - frankly too many for the standard weeknight supper. I appreciated that the two-step brown-and-bake method ensured crispy skin and blood-free flesh. My oil splatter-evading efforts had not gone to waste either, for mustard and roasted chicken was a phenomenal pairing indeed.
Alas, one must prepare themselves for at least one hour of fumey endeavours if opting for this route.
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3) Tomato Curry
​A spinoff of the cult classic Glico blocks - mild, of course - involved the addition of fresh vine tomato chunks and braising the pork in my seemingly endless bottle of umeshu brandy. 
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​While the peeling and chopping of potatoes, onions, and garlic constitutes no challenging task, slight obstacles were encountered in my quest for a quick production. Despite using pre-portioned carrots, the process was not as concise as I had anticipated. Meat chunks had been frozen in non-uniform medium chunks, rather than the ready-to-use bite-sized pieces I had anticipated. With the stove on and aromatics ready to be sautéed, I hastily summoned a pair of kitchen shears in an attempt to loosen and portion the meat. Oh, what travesty it was! 
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​Eventually, the unrefined cutting process was complete. Added to the pot was a generously-sized knob of salted butter. Once foamy, in went the onions and garlic. Pork cubes followed; after gaining some colour, umeshu brandy was added to commence the tenderizing sequence. The choice was intentional, for its complex, sweet fruitiness would likely complement the savouriness of the salted butter and richness of the Glico curry block without the need for basic seasonings of salt and sugar. Frozen carrots and fresh tomato chunks would contribute moisture, nixing the need for stock or water and further assisting in cooking the potatoes.

The resulting combination was equally aromatic as the standard curry mix, but lightened with the inclusion of tomato. Feedback received was generally positive, with a single account noting a somewhat "flat" flavour that would see possible potential unlocked with herbs or spices. The proposal had not been to render the curry fiery, but rather fiercer in personality. Consequently, it led me to contemplate inclusions of bay leaf, paprika, and nutmeg for future iterations. Nevertheless, I found the mixture delicious on its own and easier to digest given its looser consistency.
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    Formerly an avid owner of several interest-based portals, Random Thoughts of a Quirky Blogger presents precisely the elements expected. From experiments in the kitchen to miscellaneous musings, from IGOT7 reflections to developments in transportation infrastructure, it's all consolidated here. Welcome to the raw, unfiltered side of Quirky Aesthetics.



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WHAT DOES "QUIRKY AESTHETICS" MEAN?

Quirky =  a term that commonly refers to something/someone distinctly different and unique
Aesthetics = the visual aspect of things



Together, Quirky Aesthetics refers to the things, events, and happenings seen and perceived by this blog's creator - quirky perspectives in a visual form.

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