Often made using white flour, a brioche is an enriched dough defined by a number of elements:
- Eggs
- Butter
- Milk (or milk powder)
1. Microwave tangzhong
Tangzhong was cooked in the microwave, mochi-style, as opposed to the stovetop on the sheer basis of convenience. Ingredient quantites were maintained consistent at 40 g bread flour and 200 g water. After mixing to disperse lumps, the medium-sized Pyrex bowl was subject to three rounds of 1-minute bursts at 1200 W, stirring after each minute. For the final round, I would observe closely, noting the size of any air bubbles in formation, and halt the heat to prevent a scorched surface and watery base. Once the paste had formed, it was covered tightly with cling film to prevent skin formation and chilled in the refrigerator for at least six hours.
In contrast to the recipe, I did not allow the tangzhong to come to room temperature for 1h prior to using. The process of kneading of by hand would eliminate this step, for the its contact time with air would be longer than if incorporated using a stand mixer. Furthermore, I did not knead the dough with oil-covered hands, but rather just baking gloves.
Similar to an SK confession, it is incredibly difficult to adhere to a recipe without foreign introductions or swaps (for either curiosity or convenience). My ingredient modifications consisted of:
- 260 g milk → 260 g water
- 50 g egg → 1 egg (approx. 53 g)
- 50 g unsalted butter → unmeasured quantity of unsalted butter; perhaps 60 g?
- 1 egg yolk + milk for egg wash → 1 egg + heavy cream
The elimination of milk was not to subtract from the concoction's richness, but rather to preserve the minimal amount of milk in the household for other uses (drinking, cereal, etc.). It was also to facilitate the introduction of warm liquid, for I despised the thought of warming the milk in a separate vessel and the consequential increase in dish count. The other substitutions/adjustments were executed strictly on the basis of convenience, including prevention of leftover ingredients.
A. Tangzhong
- 40g bread flour
- 200g water
B. Dough
- 580 g bread flour
- 60 g sugar
- 12 g salt
- 10 g dry yeast
- 10 g milk powder
- 260 g water
- 1 egg
- Tangzhong
- 60-65 g unsalted butter, softened
- egg wash ̶(̶1̶ ̶e̶g̶g̶ ̶y̶o̶l̶k̶ ̶+̶ ̶m̶i̶l̶k̶)̶ (1 egg + heavy cream)
The yield was: 6 whole wheat rolls (355 F for 15-20 mins) and 1 loaf (355 F for 25 mins).
The first proof was conducted at room temperature, enclosed in a cold oven for 3 hours. The dough was observed to triple in volume during this time. After kneading and shaping, the second proof would be decelerated using the cold-proofing method. Six buns and one loaf would proof at 7 degrees Celsius for 12 hours, and brought to room temperature the morning after just before baking.
Naturally, I was also curious towards the loaf version, which baked for 5-10 minutes longer due to its larger size and reduced exposed surface area. Upon removal from its pan - greased and floured meticulously, mind you! - one could observe beautiful coils and evenly browned edges. That said, the bread pull was the true testament of quality.
In addition to delicate air bubbles and a stable, uniform gluten structure were feathery shards of softness - in abundance too! The sight of the layers had me absolutely elated; a taste test further confirmed their pliable nature. Tangzhong was indeed pivotal for such a supple provision.
Sandwich-ready portions were enjoyed on the following morning smothered with peanut butter and topped with banana slices. The slice had been toasted lightly to enhance its crunch factor. While the edges were dry to the touch, I must admit some degree of amazement that the centre retained moistness in the process. The single slice was craggy, hearty, and absolutely gratifying.
- Enriched whole wheat dough is possible!
- For bread flour amounts exceeding 300 g, a stand mixer is advised for uniform mixing. Kneading by hand is possible if comprehensive, albeit tiring.
- Using water instead of milk did not noticeably distract from the loaf's flavour profile
- Cold proofing permits a more flexible baking schedule, as well as availability of freshly-baked bread in the morning, if desired
- Tangzhong is absolutely pivotal for texture: it preserves moisture while maintaining structure and yields feathery shards of plushness.
- Plan accordingly if using tangzhong, for it increases total process time by at least 6h (or until it cools to room temperature). Total active and passive time from initiation to oven shutoff averages at 24 hours with cold proof (or 12 h without cold proof).
Hot oil splatters were inevitable, as were greasy fumes that permeated every pore and thread in the vicinity.
Instead of two small shallots and a mere sprinkle of chives to finish, I boosted the amount of aromatics in the sauce by sautéeing onions and minced garlic in the chicken grease with salt and sugar. (Shallots also did not happen to be readily available.) Mirin was added next, as a sweeter swap for the specified "dry, white wine", followed by a heaping portion of smooth Dijon mustard. The interim check saw extreme pungency, which I neutralized with a large spoonful of honey, whose silky qualities, unfortunately, did not emerge in the final product. Lastly came a splash of heavy cream, water in place of low-sodium chicken broth, and a sprinkle more of salt. I was thankful to have forgotten to season the chicken, for the mustardy condiment ultimately revealed itself too salty after boiling and reducing.
Alas, one must prepare themselves for at least one hour of fumey endeavours if opting for this route.
The resulting combination was equally aromatic as the standard curry mix, but lightened with the inclusion of tomato. Feedback received was generally positive, with a single account noting a somewhat "flat" flavour that would see possible potential unlocked with herbs or spices. The proposal had not been to render the curry fiery, but rather fiercer in personality. Consequently, it led me to contemplate inclusions of bay leaf, paprika, and nutmeg for future iterations. Nevertheless, I found the mixture delicious on its own and easier to digest given its looser consistency.