Out & About #619 | Zakkushi on Queen West

Read Part 1 HERE !

​A quick round of messages were exchanged, and the dinner destination was secured along Queen West.

​​Driving by, it was learned that VDL, Sanko and Sukoi were no more.

Zakkushi on Queen was quiet on a Sunday evening, mysteriously so. The gathering spot wasn't particularly large, though managed to seat diners in a manner that emanated a sense of roominess.
A small waiting area by the entrance, series of four-party tables along the walls, and a communal squoval table at the back assumed the layout of the narrow izakaya. Stone walls - or perhaps concrete with opaque, stone-like finishing - along with wooden furnishings and a classic-meets-concurrent bamboo ceiling embellishment. Wooden plaques bearing  the names of individual menu items also doubled as coat hangers, as we were so informed by staff.

​We perused the tri-fold menu while in wait of the second half of the party. Some items had been blocked off, indicating unavailability, though the assortment that remained was still vast enough to keep us content.
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Once the group assimilated, the first round of orders was submitted to a bubbly waitress - a Japanese lady whose kindness permeated through her speedy utterances.

​Speaking from a personal perspective, oden is an dish more frequently associated with that of Taiwan than Japan, specifically in the regard of a convenience store staple. Zakkushi's 關東煮 was a welcome change from Korea's jalapeno-infused rendition: pierce-able segments of simmered daikon, sweet dashimaki, and chewy konnyaku submerged in a savoury, soothing broth was precisely what the weather had called for. In hindsight, the omelette square was darker and less eggy than anticipated, while the rigid slab of a "yam cake" was, more or less, flavourless. However, the daikon and basis of broth were more than sufficient in compensating these shortcomings.

Find the full album HERE !

​None of us had expected the Shishamo to be delivered as a single skewer serving. It was a delicious starter, with its surface grilled and even slightly charred. Internal components remained supple as well. Togarashi-dusted mayo was another noteworthy element on the plate. The only downside was the portion size.

Chicken gizzard pieces bore a conventional internal organ taste - if one can depict it in such a manner. Rougher than pig's liver (think congee-style) with the air of cartillage, the selection is surely not for the squeamish (nor texturally-sensitive).

Tangy and tender, the Umeshiso Yaki flaunted a wonderful blend of traditional Japanese seasonings atop perfectly-cooked chicken thigh bites.

< Pictured above and below:

• Shishamo
• Chicken Gizzard
• Umeshiso Yaki
• ​BBQ Beef Don
• ​Takowasabi
• Negi Tongue
• ​Okunomatsu Momo Toro
• Okunomatsu Toro Ringo
• ​Natto Bakudan
• ​Negidaku Tuna Tataki
• ​Houjicha Pudding
• Kuro Goma Brûlée >

Had Zakkushi not offered a single donburi dish, I would have voted in favour of an alternative, because rice bowls possess a certain charm that is only further enhanced in cold temperatures. A fine form of comfort food, the BBQ Beef Don succeeded in appeasing the appetite with sticky grains of short-grain rice, succulent squares of marinated beef, and the right dosage of nori strips.

Pungent as should be; The shallow dish of Takowasa contained a heavier handful of salt than preferred, but was nonetheless delicious with toasted seaweed strips.

Plated along a narrow, vertical dish were three ostensibly overdone fragments adorned with bits of sweet onion - a robust relish of sorts. The edges frayed and curled and the hue all too reflective of overcooking, the Negi Tongue was arguably on par with the profile of a well done steak.

​Our second round of orders was placed with the least amiable member of the service staff trio: he was a heavily built male, presumably Korean by his accent, with a  condescending, "get-me-outta-here" gaze.

Laminated menus permanently resided in a slot by the table, supplemented by drink menus and limited-time offerings. Unveiled midway through our first round of munchies was a sheet depicting Hakkaisan Snow Aged Junmai Ginjo (3 Years). The group was in favour of this spontaneous taste-testing, thus we proceeded with 100 ml each of the Okunomatsu Toro Ringo and Okunomatsu Momo Toro.

​Toro Ringo smelled of Fuji apples, as one would infer from its name. The profile was fruity, luscious, and just a tad floral - similar to biting into a ripe apple on a breezy spring afternoon. Immediately deducing it to be a dangerous concoction, I set aside the last sip.

The decision was wise, for Momo - Japanese for "peach" - was a product of thicker consistency and leading notes of artificial flavour. "Peach Calpico"  was the instant association: a synthetic foundation shrouded in sugar. Needless to say, I gulped the last of the Ringo afterwards to clear the palate.

Noted to be a promoter of "gut health", the Natto Bakudan contained chunks of assorted sashimi, natto (Japan's favourite fermented bean), and a delicate half-boiled egg. In spite of its colourful presentation, the result failed to exceed a goopy emulsion once mixed - a mere mishmash of material devoid of leading notes.

Similar to the takowasa, toasted nori strips (and an additional mound of wasabi) accompanied the skillet. These five strips were insufficient, so we requested a few more from a suit-donning member of staff. He had acknowledged our request with a smile, but failed to clarify that a surcharge would take effect. For a meager fifty cents, it wasn't an enormous issue, however I would have appreciated a greater degree of transparency at management's end.

Between Beef Tataki and Negidaku Tuna, there was clear bias towards the latter. It was a no-brainer for me, as Guu - or rather, Kinka - had essentially set the standard for carpaccio for centuries to come. And while MeNami's variation with wakame is great, the simplistic ponzu-and-onion medley captured my taste buds for the evening. The plate succeeded in exploring the diverse potential of the odoriferous bulb: proper negi rings added a refreshing kick, while jammy bits of sweet onion contributed depth, saturating the generous cuts of albacore tuna. My sole remorse was in regards to the lack of a crunchy element, perhaps crispy shallots/onions or fried garlic to garnish.

When dessert time rolled around, the group rapidly narrowed down the two final contenders.
Houjicha Pudding was a very jiggly specimen - reminiscent of steamed egg pudding - but milkier than it was flavourful. I must admit to being particularly intrigued on the steps taken to infuse the dessert, for there were no discernible specks of tea leaves within.
Anko properly sweet and textured, it would have been an apt accomplice for injeolmi or kinako; in this placement, however, the chunky paste overpowered the fragility of houjicha. The group agreed that it could have also done without the whipped cream.

The Kuro Goma Brûlée employed an innovate twist on the typical torched sugar surface by substituting with a satisfying sesame crumble. The underlying layer was a pleasant surprise of plush pudding, as opposed to rich custard. Finely-milled black sesame was spotted at the base of the ramekin, offering a graciously gritty finale to the snowy night.

Known predominantly for skewers (and specifically the chicken variety), one ought to note that Zakkushi's kushi-based items are individual portions, not sets of two or three as the menu images implied, hence making them the pricier picks off the menu. And while it is not generally not common practice to order rice bowls and medium-sized plates for sharing, such selections shall permit sustenance without fear of breaking the bank.
Skewer servings are individual portions, not sets of two or three as we had assumed, hence making them the pricier picks off the menu. Rice bowls and medium-sized plates were ideal for sharing without fear of breaking the bank.

​Washrooms were located at foot of stairs in the form of three unisex stalls. Its design elements did not go unnoticed: caged lamps, stone interior with prominent bolts, and white marble wastebins maintained a cohesive vibe with the upper level scheme. The facilities were kept neat and tidy, with toothpicks and mouthwash perched adjacent to the sink. A tan-toned Cintas system was arranged within the compact space.

​The end of the meal welcomed us with re-entry into the outside world - this time swirling with wet snowfall.

A handful of attempts at capturing the scene later, we were homebound. Driving conditions were, surprisingly, not as treacherous as they appeared on the expressways, but skidding concerns definitely emerged once traversing on local roads.