Read Part 1 HERE !

​Waiting for boarding in a toasty environment was unbearable. Yet, it seemed that only I was unaccustomed to midday UV rays permeating the glass windows.

The cramped aircraft hadn't helped my case either. It had been years since I had last sat in Economy. Besides the narrow corridor of the passenger plane, tray tables adopted the now-obsolete folding type. To make mattes worse, my table was positively grimy, bearing indicators of a distinctively brown drink spill - either coffee or Cola. My browsing partner had opted for the window seat, and I saw that tables closer to the window were cleaner than the aisle. I scrubbed at my seat with vigor, only to never really utilize the tray table over the one-hour flight.

Another feature of the small, old aircraft were buttons and twist fans overhead. Despite my greatest attempts to sleep during the flight, I was rudely awoken by turbulence. Thankfully, the fan had been set on max to improve air circulation around me. There were no barf bags in the seat pocket in front of me.

Advertising was prevalent throughout the inside of the plane, making it easy for brands to leave an impression. This promotional approach was not unlike the ads spotted in subways, with the exception of celebrity spokespeople. Korea truly enjoyed such association, to a degree I shall never comprehend.

​Likely in light of the recent Jeju Air tragedy, safety and evacuation demonstrations were executed to tremendous detail. One of two flight attendants progressed through the steps of using the oxygen mask, all while looking absolutely soul-less. She was very unimpressed, and reasonably so if she had demonstrated the same sequence upwards of twenty times in a day.
I had placed my backpack on my lap instead of sliding it underneath the seat in front of me. While the flight attendant had strolled the aisles, she had not urged me to tuck the bag away as Air Canada staff would undoubtedly have.​

​Despite being delayed at the gate, boarding of passengers took place at an astoundingly quick pace. Closing of the aircraft door and taxi proceeded nearly immediately. That said, takeoff was delayed, resulting in an arrival time of 10 minutes past anticipated.

During boarding, I couldn't help but observe that Zone number did not correlate to Seat number. Being in Zone 3, we were amongst the last group to board, even if our seat was towards the front of the aircraft in the 5th row. This approach was peculiar and not very efficient as it created delays in the corridor.
One had the option of choosing seats during the reservation process, which would incur fees of 1,000 - 5,000 KRW. Those closer to the front would be priced higher than those in the rows behind. No fees would be incurred if opting not to choose a seat in advance. For those without pre-selected seats, flyers could pick from the available selection using the Self Check-In kiosk.

​The flight enabled me a firsthand peek into Korea's infamous "rush mentality". Passengers on board our flight were primarily locals ranging between the ages of 25 to 55. Not a single person waited for the seat belt sign to turn off before slowly getting up. Rather, patrons were standing up and ripping off their seat belts from the millisecond that the sign was no longer illuminated. Calls were being made and social media feeds were being watched like breaking news. Upon nearing the gate, the aircraft door opened immediately, allowing deplaning to take place. The masses rushed to get off the flight, as if the one-hour journey had delayed them half their day.

The hurried pace continued from the gate to the baggage claim area. Impressive were the consistent footsteps of those around me, to the point where no one in the office would ever declare me as a "speedwalker" had they witnessed the scene unfold.

Featuring dim lighting and low ceilings, the baggage area reminded me of Halifax and Montréal. Though, Halifax did not see as many patrons and Montréal was smaller and grimmer, without any form of embellishments.
Jeju International Airport included three photo spots near the exit, along with a promotional sequence playing on the LED screens wrapped around surrounding pillars.

Even those that had rushed to disembark the aircraft slowed near the displays. Each party took quick snapshots before proceeding on their way; such conciseness prevented a queue from forming, as one would have expected in North America with hoards of Chinese tourists.

​The most innovative method of capturing a photo was seen in a couple's use of the carry-on handle bar as a tripod. Before dashing to the display with Stone Grandfathers and Hallabong, a woman positioned her phone against the handle bar and set a timer. Then the couple dashed into frame with gleeful smiles. Absolutely adorable was this encounter - in sheer contrast to the grumbly travel companion next to me.

​There was more to explore upon exiting the baggage claim. Of note was a series of restaurants arranged in a semi-circle with a faux naturescape centrepiece.

​We'd also lay eyes on a rare WOWPASS kiosk and a decently sized Olive Young.

​I headed outside for a brief moment, leaving my browsing partner to handle luggage and investigate next steps. (Of course, the latter was not done.) Past the automatic sliding doors were dreary, grey skies, waving palm trees, and slick asphalt. Conditions were humid, concluding the arrival (or ongoing status) of a tropical storm.

​Many passengers had huddled about a nearby bus stop, likely with the intention of heading into Jeju City.

I took note of the amenities on site, including a fourth floor observatory (that we wouldn't be visiting) and muddled directions for the rental car facilities. The label of "Rental Car Shuttles" implied that such facilities were located off-site, as opposed to navigable via indoor passages of the airport.

Heading back inside the terminal, I realized my browsing partner had not made any progress with the rental car administrative activities and had, instead, been awaiting my return to commence any work. The delay in action frustrated me, for the Lotte Rent-A-Car help desk was just a few steps away.
Shaking my head in annoyance, I neared the section of the counter that offered English-speaking services and presented my reservation confirmation. The lady behind the desk was exceptionally friendly and verified my documents one by one. She explained the next steps with clarity: Given that the reservation had not been made under the same name as the International Driving Permit (IDP) holder, additional administrative steps would be required. It was advised that the IDP holder create a user account with Lotte Rent-A-Car such that booking could be shifted under the same name.
In consideration of time, she recommended that we board the shuttle to the Lotte facility first, as account creation could take place during the commute. Subsequent steps could be finalized at the rental location by on-site staff.

And so, we followed the masses and respective signage, crossing over to a covered walkway with artificial grass as carpeting. The covered corridor offered protection from ongoing precipitation. We continued trekking until reaching Lotte Rent-A-Car's shuttle bus stop near the very end of the walkway. By this point, we had grown haggard from the turn of events. Squelching patches of sodden carpeting underneath my non-waterproof sneakers had also made for heightened displeasure.

​Successfully boarding the shuttle offered tremendous relief. Despite our luggage barely fitting into the dedicated storage sections, I heaved a sigh knowing that we were on our way at long last. In spite of the online documentation about Jeju car rentals - be they forums or VLOGS - reality confirmed that the process wasn't nearly as straightforward as others had made it out to be:

• For starters, there were countless rental car companies, likely the reason why rental facilities are located off-site instead of easily accessible within airport corridors.
• For every rental car company, there was a dedicated shuttle bus. These buses operated akin to standard buses, with numbered stops to indicate their boarding area. However, instead of assigning one number per company, several companies shared a range of stops with some overlap. As an example, Company A boarding would take place at stops 1-3, but Company B boarding may take place from 3-5. It didn't help that all the shuttle buses assumed a similar exterior, save the logo on the side.
• Shuttle buses were not always available. According to the schedule posted within the airport, their arrival times were staggered. On average, they would come every 15-20 minutes.

​Although there was a departure board and plenty of signage within the airport, the information was not categorized clearly for ease of navigation. The average traveller could easily misinterpret the wayfinding elements for taxis, buses, and rental car shuttle buses. Essentially, it was data overload without a sense of synthesis. There was also minimal warning, if any, regarding timing of each event (ie. syncing reservations, walking, waiting for the shuttle, travel time towards the rental facility, etc.). In addition, the advertised process did not consider those travelling in large groups with young children and elderly, nor those with copious amounts of luggage (us).
As I'd later learn, Korean appeared to operate in a manner where processes are advertised as swift and efficient, but exclude important details about preparation and aftermath.

Ten to fifteen minutes later, we'd arrive at Lotte Rent-A-Car. The facility was positively bustling. Despite the depressing weather, many locals had decided to make the trip over from the Korean mainland.

Scanning the vicinity, there appeared to be three methods of obtaining one's reserved vehicle:

1. Self-Serve Kiosk
2. Korean-speaking counter
3. "Foreigner"/English-speaking counter

Instead of placing queue markers, visitors would obtain a "Waiting Ticket" to secure their spot for service. Admittedly, I found it quite novel to have dedicated waiting tickets for domestic (Korean-speaking) and "foreigner" (English-speaking) clients. The tickets were assigned different numbering sequences, allowing customers to be directed to the appropriate staff member for assistance

​Approximately 60% of the clients were domestic visitors, either middle-aged women or families with young children. While in wait of our turn, I discovered the availability of on-site bathrooms and yet another LED screen listing customer names and the parking area of their assigned rental vehicle.

​When our number was called, the English-speaking member of staff confirmed the reservation transfer and provided an info sheet for reference. Indicated on the slip was our vehicle model, parking area, gas type, and return date. My browsing partner made a fuss about "LPG", an exclusive type of gas apparently not offered at all stations.
Adjacent to the payment terminal was a table of tourism discounts, ranging from museum and dining offers to admissions to Snoopy Planet.

​With paperwork finalized, we set out to Parking Area 6H, following the pavement markings depicting the pedestrian route.

​The vehicle was remarkably pristine - not an ounce of dust, smear, or stain anywhere! In front of the passenger seat, a sticker had been placed to confirm completion of cleaning and enforce policies to keep pets in cages and forbid smoking.

Accompanying the rental was a built-in navigation system (extremely helpful for locating local destinations) and even a dashcam!

​Departing the facility, a member of staff documented the existing fuel level. We were instructed to return the car with a similar amount, or risk facing additional charges due to insufficiency.

​Driving through Jeju City wasn't the most interesting of ventures. The streets curved abruptly and congestion was comparable to suburban neighbourhoods during rush hour. That said, it was still better than driving in urban areas. 

​We quickly learned that speed limits were strictly enforced on the island, to the extent where the navigation screen would flash red if the limit was exceeded. Cameras were also observed at nearly every signalized intersection, threatening the receipt of speeding tickets.

Although my browsing partner griped at the odd transitions of 30, 40, and 50 km/h zones, the complaints gradually decreased as we traversed into the calmer, residential areas. Much to my surprise, there were barely any vehicles on the road on Saturday evening. The estimated ninety-minute commute steadily reduced to just fifty-seven minutes.

At first, we regarded the navigation directions with wary, for we had guided onto a narrow, unpaved farm road. Proceeding cautiously, the reserved Airbnb came into view from afar, allowing me to confirm validity of the route. Given the muddy grounds and sharp, unsigned turns, extreme care was demanded to prevent accidentally scratching the car.

​We arrived at long last, laying eyes on the series of "pensions" I had investigated comprehensively in the months prior.

​Four tandem parking spaces were outlined before the first house. Not a single one was occupied though. A single white car was parking on a gravel lot located perpendicular to the grid; we presumed it to belong to the owner/Airbnb host.

​​​Braving ruthless gusts, we meandered towards Pension No. 1. About two weeks ago, the host had reached out to confirm booking of Pension No. 1. At fist, I was surprised given that my request was for No. 2. Ultimately, No. 1 had been the most fitting choice, for it featured the white curtains that I desired and proximity to the washer and dryer room.

​The keypad code had been provided in advance of our arrival. As my browsing partner transported luggage from the trunk and passenger seat, I worked to unlock our accommodations for the next two nights. Three attempts later, the cozy interior was finally unveiled. I was in awe!

Attractive, spacious, and beautiful, the pension aligned exactly with the images posted online. The landing area was set at a lower elevation than the ground floor, allowing for temporary storage of luggage and facilitating removal of shoes. The colourful tiling instilled a sense of whimsy, beyond allowing for ease of cleaning.

Beyond the landing area was a small kitchen, complete with sink, cooktop, and microwave. There was also a small fridge adjacent to this setup. Utensils, plates, and pots could be found in the drawers and cabinets underneath, though it should be noted that washing before use was non-negotiable. Grease and food remnants were spotted even at a distance. The interior of the microwave was also heavily soiled with bits of food, arguably dirtier than those in publicly accessible convenience stores.

​Separating the kitchen and fireplace was an elevated living room/dining room. This area provided access to the backyard, bathroom, and partial view into the adjacent pool area. Utilization of the pool would incur an additional 90,000 KRW fee, while the fireplace priced by butane and log usage. Neither were of interest to us.
Above the dining area was a projector, such that movies and television could be viewed from both levels of the building.

The washroom boasted similar tiling to the landing area, but adopted a sauna-like appeal. Wooden ceilings with skylights and a jacuzzi-style bath area were notable features. I appreciated the consistent tiling throughout, as it meant damp feet could access the towel storage without fear of floor damage and slippage. That said, the steep steps leading down towards the shower area was most definitely not accessible. We also later learned that evening that water pressure was severely lacking. The pressure in the faucet was, sadly, stronger than the streams emerging from the showerhead. In fact, the tap was so strong, splashes onto the mirror were nearly inevitable.

A single plastic cup was found near the sink. This vessel was presumed for brushing teeth, but there was only one for the two of us. In reaching out to the host, my request for a second cup was dismissed immediately, with the reasons being "sustainability" and "Korean culture". Her intent was to encourage sharing of one cup, but that we could utilize the ceramic cups in the kitchen if desired. Nonsensical in more ways than one, it appeared that she wished to refrain from direct contact with the guests as much as possible. In the end, we resolved to use the plastic cup for brushing teeth and the patterned ceramic ones for drinking water and coffee.

Save a few stray hairs in the corners, the bathroom was quite clean. Signage near the toilet warned against using too much toilet paper, as clogging was possible. This message was posted in both Korean and English, likely targeting speakers of both groups.

​The aspect that caught us off guard was the heated floor. Neither of us was accustomed to the setup, nor were we particularly fond of the added temperature when it came to food items in our luggage being warmed accidentally. Having placed makeup and coffee beans near the bottom of my suitcase, the first evening taught me to reconfigure the arrangement accordingly.

​Wooden stairs led up to the second floor bedroom. At first glance, the steps seemed to be positioned at uniform heights and distances. Only with repeated use did we find its surface dangerously slippery and the turns hazardous in dim lighting.

Aside from these design choices, the space was positively serene. The combination of slanted ceiling lights and floor-to-ceiling curtains exuded a bright, welcoming impact. Tall windows and skylights also ensured plenty of natural illumination during daytime, while a single window by the stairwell provided much-needed relief from stuffiness come nighttime.

​I took note of outlet inventory, the dust of the railing, and the view of the dining room from above. Descending back downstairs, we'd proceed to transport our bags past the landing area and gradually settle in.

Read Part 3 HERE !

​Despite the path from the hotel to N Seoul Tower being relatively straightforward on foot, all buses routed towards Seoul Station involved a detour before the entrance of Gyeongbokgung Palace, as only the arterials roads were wide enough to be traversed.

​Moreover, the short-lived commute involved one transfer. While I could have undertaken the remaining twenty minutes on foot instead of waiting seven minutes for the next bus, the mid-morning hours had become far warmer than anticipated. In the presence of concrete interlock walkways and sheer absence of tree cover, I opted to take cover under ledge of the nearest bus shelter. It was, in this moment, that I noted not a single member of society donned sunglasses in the face of eyeball-scorching UV rays.

​I met up with my browsing partner within my ETA period. Before departing, a stopover was made at CU. I made it a point to obtain the Korea Tour Card to enable discounts on admission and other related attractions, not knowing that the 4,000 KRW card would be phased out at the end of the month.

Quick lunch options at CU were dismissed on the bases of blandness; though, I must admit to giddiness at seeing the same packaged chicken breast that Mark had showcased in his latest Korea VLOG.

We then slowly made our way to Seoul Station, with me identifying items of interest along the way. While we could have descended directly into the station via the nearest subway entrance, my browsing partner expressed curiosity towards the pedestrian overpass.
"We have to head over there (across the street) anyway - might as well see the view from up there." was the justification. Little did I know that these gentle nudges would continue to postpone meal times and delay desired activities for the rest of the trip.

And so, braving the blazing sun, we climbed up to the first pedestrian overpass and crossed over the complex intersection of Hangang-daero/Sejong-daero, Tongil-ro, and Toegye-ro.

Glass panels had been erected along the edges of the exposed walkway for the obvious reason of safety, save a bump-out observation deck with a singular opening for unobscured photo capture. I detested the pathway's proximity to the cloudless sky, again expressing distaste for the lack of streetscaping. The observation of a café with an elevated seating area - Yes, you read that right: even higher than the overpass - was bewildering to me.

Scalp burning immensely, I urged my browsing partner to make haste. Obtaining a hat for the remainder of the day's outdoor activities appeared non-negotiable at this point.

Descending a winding staircase led us back to the station where confusion and fatigue had plagued us the night before. Homeless sightings hadn't diminished in the slightest. Rather, the ruckus was louder and area busier.

Striding past a defunct railway terminal, homeless elderly men yelling indistinguishable phrases, and substantial smoking area, we made our way into the teensiest Daiso I had ever seen. Cramped corridors and failure to find hats prompted our near-immediate exit. We'd head two levels up towards Lotte Mart to continue our search.

​In the bustling supermarket, I'd find a plethora of snacks but not a single hat of interest. The grocery section of the Mart was positively flourishing, which raised an eyebrow given that it was still a weekday afternoon.

I resisted the purchase of skincare items and weighty munchables, for we'd soon be subject to luggage overage charges imposed by Jeju-bound air carriers. A pack of Kanu instant coffee was procured, then we ventured to the connecting floors of Lotte Mall.

Utterly unplanned was the browsing of said retail floors. Alas, one distraction led to another, causing time to pass quicker than we realized.

One level above Lotte Mart was a haven for enthusiasts of games and animated characters: There were dedicated sections for Pokémon, Pixar, Nintendo, LEGO, and more!

Naturally, I was also unable to resist the conveniently positioned photobooth. The Korean Life4Cuts accepted payment by card and cash and charged a mere 5,000 KRW for two copies. Furthermore, there were no surcharges for specialty/exclusive frame options. The widespread availability of photobooths was a pleasant observation, but the accessible prices even more.

The unexpected yet convenient location of Muji incited a visit. There, I found products that would otherwise be pricier and not yet in stock back home. Given the allure of Instant Tax Refund, I committed to purchasing two sunhats for the upcoming itinerary. One adopted a dusty pink hue with a wide brim and waterproof coating, while the other a lightweight black with breathable top.

​Washrooms were located on the same level as the parking lot. In contrast to the aura presented by the department store, the stalls weren't particularly clean, nor was the absence of soap and water regarded favourably.

By the time Lotte Mall had been traversed in most of its entirety, the clock read 2 PM. Sustenance was needed.

​Tokkijung Project was selected based on proximity.

The interior housed a greater number of patrons than perceived from the outside. Luggage was held near the reception desk as to prevent obstructions in the main corridors of access. Meanwhile, servers flitted between different sections of the restaurant, transporting giant glasses of carbonated mixed drinks and shareable platters to parties of two, three, and four.

Read Part 2 HERE !

​Apparently, a recently introduced tourist curfew would come into effect for Bukchon Hanok Village and the surrounding districts beyond the hours of 10 AM to 5 PM.

​I had urged my browsing partner to hurry, only to later learn that our area of interest lay with the retail side of the village. Residing just outside the curfew zone, this strip was distinctly more modern than heritage.

​Making our way through the village, our gaze fell upon a Baskin Robbins and Madang collaboration set within a hanok, yet another museum (the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul), an O-Sulloc outpost, and even a Blue Bottle location.

My eyes shone with wonder as we chanced across hoddeok and bunggeoppang stalls. Neither sparked the same reaction from my browsing partner. Regrettably, the former could not be consumed due its peanut-based filling, while the latter succeeded only in enticing one of us (me).

We opted to browse nearby shops instead, where I surrendered my first bill of Korean won for a mini knitted tote intended for my coworker.

Rounding the corner of Bukchon-ro 5-gil at Bukchon-ro, we encountered a staggering number of protests. Police buses had lined the length of the street, seemingly positioned in place for the long term.

A few steps away was the storefront of Wonder Cookies, appearing precisely in the configuration shown online by Hanbit Cho.

​The storefront gave the illusion of an old-fashioned music box with its partially Serif font and robin's egg blue accents. Artificial garden elements were also arranged outside surrounding the seating area. Given the external conditions though, it was far too noisy and chilly to sit comfortably for extended periods of time.

​Upon pulling open the double doors, we were greeted warmly by the sole member of front line staff. Baking operations had evidently ceased for the day, though one could make out at least two members of staff assisting the pastry chef himself in the back room.

The front of the store housed two areas: a vestibule with baking-related replicas (countertop oven, cookbook, cookies, etc.) on display and a compact seating area with benches and backless chairs. Past this section were the product display shelves, labelled "Pop-Up, "Cookie", and "Order" respectively. It was presumed that "Pop-Up" items were introduced on a rotational basis, while "Cookie" indicated fixed selections.

​By the time of our mid-afternoon visit, many varieties had already sold out. Amongst the remaining assortment were: Levain, White-Macadamia, Apple Pecan, Red Velvet, Fig Marshmallow, Lotus Marshmallow, Matcha Marshmallow, and Earl Grey Peach. I automatically dismissed the varieties containing fruit preserves, for they were likely to accumulate moisture quickly. Flavours of Red Velvet and S'Mores spinoffs were also largely unappealing to me, leaving me to lean towards Levain and White Chocolate Macadamia - the arguably classic cookies profiles.

Frankly, their fist-sized appearances had deterred my appetite slightly, as I would be sampling them solo. Since the cashier could not guarantee against potential cross-contamination with the peanut-containing doughs, my browsing partner erred on the side of caution. The cookies would largely be reserved for my consumption, while a slice of Basque Cheesecake was shared.

"Ade" is a persistently prominent drink choice in Korea. Composed of carbonated water and fruit compote or jam, the beverage is served over ice and remarkably popular during the sweltering summer months. For those hailing from cold countries - ahem, us - it would serve as a wonderful late afternoon pick-me-up in place of coffee.

Wonder Cookies' signature Citron Grapefruit Ade and Plum Ade set us back 5,500 KRW and 5,900 KRW respectively. Meanwhile, the cookies rang in at 5,900 KRW each and the Basque Cheesecake at 7,400 KRW. Visually pleasing cafés are hardly budget-friendly, though one could confirm that Korea was charging a hefty markup from North American prices on all items except the Basque cheesecake, which is usually priced between five to seven dollars before tax.

Fitful was my slumber before the day of departure. Unfortunately, it hadn't only been one night of restlessness. At least three consecutive nights had been met with interrupted periods of rest, which eventually revealed itself in facial imperfections. The tension was partially owed to work-related qualms and partially anxieties from a long absence from international travel. Suffice to say, my browsing partner did aim to not alleviate either of these concerns. Above all, the greatest annoyance was the excruciatingly long planning phase, wherein seemingly endless back and forth would ensue before some form of compromise could be attained.

​Shockingly, we blitzed through both baggage drop and security without a moment's delay. Most outbound flights had congregated in the domestic terminal, leaving the international screening area utterly barren.

​Throughout the process, my browsing partner continued to exude grouchiness, either griping about one item or another. The topic of in-flight meals had stirred up yet another altercation with my browsing partner prior to boarding. A supposed mandate for airlines to offer food on international or long haul flights had been declared in a way that seemed rational to all. Appalling was the insinuative attitude. As someone that travels less than once per year on average, with international travels being a highly seldom occurrence - if even, this trivia was hardly common sense. Truthfully, I could not comprehend the value of ruffling feathers prior to a long-awaited vacation.

​We browsed the shop a bit more before plugging into a nearby seating area. At this point, I'd unveil my remaining Cheese Buffin halve from COBS Bread. In contemplation of a brownie from Tim Hortons, I sauntered over to the kiosk. Mobile Ordering had been advertised at its door, however I soon discovered that it was a browser-based platform exclusive to the airport terminal location, rather than the all-inclusive Tim Hortons app itself.

Reverse engineering a packaged product is a feat only Claire Saffitz can pull off in 24 hours. Devoid of a culinary school background but brimming with ideas and intense, offbeat cravings, I decided that attempting to recreate President's Choice The Decadent Chocolate Chip Cookie would bring me closer to two goals:

1. Having crunchy chocolate chips on demand - since I've succeeded at many crunchy-chewy variations
2. Economic freedom - should I successfully crack the code, I'd be free from constantly investing in a product subject to inflation

​The idea was not dissimilar to my seemingly endless quest for brownies - which, of course, I've yet to conclude a winner to parallel (or better yet, overthrow) the fudgy, delectable Farmer's Market Two-Bite Brownies.

I'd start by reviewing the ingredient list on the packaging, in particular noting their sequence. My assumption was that each ingredient was slotted by quantity. Surprisingly, chocolate chips was first. This was the singly easiest element to tackle, for I already had a 1 kg pouch of The Decadent Chocolate Chips in my inventory!

​The next step was to determine the ever-critical ratio of butter to sugar to flour. Forming the foundation of all cookie recipes, this trio would not only determine the resulting texture, but colour and shape as well. By reviewing a handful of SK's sturdier cookie recipes, I'd find ones that involved chilling and slicing ("log" cookies), egg-less (shortbread), and barren of baking soda. The Decadent was none of these, but the ingredient quantities served as a good starting point for Test Batch #1.

​As with most cookie recipes, softened butter is creamed with granulated and brown sugar until airy. Next, egg and vanilla are whisked in. Finally, dry ingredients (flour and leavener, if any) and mix-ins are folded into the dough.

Given the high flour content, I had no qualms that this dough would be sturdy and even a bit difficult to mix. Much to my surprise, it wasn't excessively difficult to portion. This was likely the first indicator that more flour was needed.

The rounds portioned using my 1.5 tbsp cookie scoop retained its textured edges even after baking. Asymmetrical mounds settled into a moderately domed cookie with faint ripples along its circumference. Meanwhile, the rounds that had been scooped then rolled into spheres emerged smoother and flatter. The interiors differed minimally, if at all.

Early into the season, I had pitched the idea of a winter hike. The first proposal was a night walk fitted with LED installations, to which my browsing partner responded with a lukewarm tone, resisting commitment. Suffice to say, the event was scrapped as we weren't collectively entirely ecstatic at the idea.

When the Snowshoes and Snow Clues event at Claireville Conservation Area popped up on my radar, I immediately expressed interest. Admission was free and snowshoes would be provided - the sole requirement was early reservation via Eventbrite. One could choose between four sessions for these guided walks: 10:30 AM or 1:30 PM on both days of the weekend. Naturally, I sought out the later time slot on Saturday afternoon.

Leading up to the event, time and location details were circulated via an email to all registered participants. Arriving at least fifteen minutes early was recommended, such that all attendees had sufficient time to be fitted with snowshoes. Consequently, I urged my browsing partner to arrive early - not that it happened. Having feared congestion on the 401, we departed around the 12:15 PM mark, only to near the area with thirty minutes to spare. The brief buffer led us to Costco, where indoor plumbing facilities were guaranteed.

In spite of the location's enormous asphalt surface lot, there appeared an inadequacy of parking. Vehicles were spotted along the curb, in the roundabout, and in no-stopping loading zones. Visitor volumes within the warehouse weren't nearly as chaotic, however, allowing me to deduce that each vehicle carried, at most, two passengers including the driver. This was a noteworthy departure from the crowds swarming the Heartland location.

​Product variety and sample stations exceeded my home location on Laird. There were Rice Krispies Variety Packs, KRAFT Peanut Butter Thins, Lotte Zero gummies, and small bites from ACE Bakery Cheese Baguettes to filled mochi gummies.

Weaving through the self-checkout area, I made a beeline for our mandatory stop: spectacularly pristine indoor plumbing facilities. Claireville Conservation Area had not listed on-site washrooms on the amenities list, thus prompting us to err on the side of caution.

Seven minutes later, we pulled into the gravel lot of the TRCA Etobicoke Field Studies Centre. Although my browsing partner had been wary of potentially snowy roads, our concerns were appeased at seeing the comprehensive snow clearing.

A number of cubbies and hooks were spotted along the perimeter of the Field Studies Centre, likely to accommodate the backpacks and outerwear accompanying field trip groups and March Break camps. Additional two-way hooks were found outside, in a partially exposed wooden cubby sheltered by a sloping roof.
"Why is it so low?" inquired my browsing partner with apparent irritation.
"It's for kids!" I answered, matter-of-factly. "For when you eat outside and need a place to leave your stuff."
"You'd hit your head reaching for things."
"It's for kids!" I reiterated, "And the roof is to protect against the elements, as you can see." I gestured to the approximate 10 cm-thick layer of snow.

​The nearby picnic tables, bonfire pit, and adjacent basketball court had been enveloped in fluffy, white mass as a result of the recent snowstorm. A handful of picnic benches had been cleared for sitting, but we opted to test our snowshoes by walking about instead.

​The snowshoes were akin to individual snowboards, being longer and wider than one's foot but equipped with crampons for traction. Unlike snowboards and skis, the foot was not affixed to a continuous platform. Snowshoes enabled flexion and extension of the foot, meaning that the heel would lift off while walking and the toes would be permitted to dip into the underlying surface. In order to facilitate walking, one would need to slide the foot to the furthest/tightest point of the top loop. The subsequent loop could then be adjusted to fit snugly over the front of the foot, while an adjustable, belt-like loop would wrap around the heel. Loose ends weren't uncommon, but merely annoying; I settled to tuck them underneath other loops to prevent catching twigs or collecting snow.

Once all participants had geared up, one of two staff members gathered the group to demonstrate turning maneuvers and tips for trekking uphill. Given the length of the snowshoes - either "beaver tail" or shorter "bear paw" - users would need to turn slowly to change direction, or conduct a small loop, to ensure that the snowshoes would not overlap one another and cause loss of balance/falling. My browsing partner and I had figured this out on our own, though the reminder was likely helpful for those with lower levels of coordination. We were encouraged us to maintain our usual gait (walking stance) and use the crampons by digging the toes into the snow when climbing uphill. Loose, fluffy snow would induce slight sinkage, but stiff, compacted snow were easy to navigate given the added suspension.

​Soon, we commenced the journey into the woods in single-file. While one of the trail leaders guided the group while providing informative  tidbits, the second was stationed at the end to ensure all attendees were accounted for.

​Majority of the path was flat, with just a few sections of steep elevation and one instance of crossing over a frozen bridge. We proceeded at a relatively swift pace, stopping occasionally to identify areas of interest.

As one would expect, I wasn't about to let my freshly procured  ̶b̶a̶t̶c̶h̶  haul of Hershey's Unsweetened Natural Cocoa sit untouched for long.

Powered by an objectively nourishing and comparatively healthy breakfast of oatmeal and raisins, I readied the kitchen for a pan of brownies.

​NYT Cooking's Triple Chocolate Brownie video had dropped just four days ago, and had been lingering in my mind since. Suffice to say, I headed straight to the YouTube video I had sent to my baking coworker. Sunday Baking's Mochi Brown was my undeniable go-to, however I was intrigued about the impacts of brown sugar and espresso powder.

​The original ingredient list reads as follows:

• 113 g unsalted butter
• 113 g bittersweet (70%) chocolate, chopped
• 1 tsp instant espresso powder
• 150 g granulated sugar
• 110 g dark brown sugar
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 64 g AP flour
• 47 g Dutch-processed cocoa powder
• 4 ounces chopped milk chocolate
• 4 ounces chopped white chocolate
• Flaky sea salt

Yield: 16 brownies, 2 in x 1.5 in

Relieving was the list of ingredients in metric units. I lined a pan of similar size, then proceeded to arrange my tubs of sugar along the counter. I had anticipated a handful of tweaks, including a reduction in sugar, however it wasn't until I dumped the remainder of my stick of butter into the bowl that all amounts were roughly scaled up by 5-7%.

Ingredients:

•  ̶1̶1̶3̶ ̶g̶ ̶u̶n̶s̶a̶l̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶t̶e̶r̶   →  128 g unsalted butter
• ̶1̶1̶3̶ ̶g̶ ̶b̶i̶t̶t̶e̶r̶s̶w̶e̶e̶t̶ ̶(̶7̶0̶%̶)̶ ̶c̶h̶o̶c̶o̶l̶a̶t̶e̶,̶ ̶c̶h̶o̶p̶p̶e̶d̶    →  135 g 52% chocolate couverture  
• 1 tsp instant espresso powder
• ̶1̶5̶0̶ ̶g̶ ̶g̶r̶a̶n̶u̶l̶a̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶s̶u̶g̶a̶r̶   →  120 g granulated sugar * reduce by 25%! (effective 120 g)
• ̶1̶1̶0̶ ̶g̶ ̶d̶a̶r̶k̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶w̶n̶ ̶s̶u̶g̶a̶r̶   →  95 g dark brown sugar
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• pinch of salt
• ̶6̶4̶ ̶g̶ ̶A̶P̶ ̶f̶l̶o̶u̶r̶  →  30 g AP, 30 g cornstarch
• ̶4̶7̶ ̶g̶ ̶D̶u̶t̶c̶h̶-̶p̶r̶o̶c̶e̶s̶s̶e̶d̶ ̶c̶o̶c̶o̶a̶ ̶p̶o̶w̶d̶e̶r̶   →  60 g cocoa powder
• ̶4̶ ̶o̶u̶n̶c̶e̶s̶ ̶c̶h̶o̶p̶p̶e̶d̶ ̶m̶i̶l̶k̶ ̶c̶h̶o̶c̶o̶l̶a̶t̶e̶
• ̶4̶ ̶o̶u̶n̶c̶e̶s̶ ̶c̶h̶o̶p̶p̶e̶d̶ ̶w̶h̶i̶t̶e̶ ̶c̶h̶o̶c̶o̶l̶a̶t̶e̶
• ̶F̶l̶a̶k̶y̶ ̶s̶e̶a̶ ̶s̶a̶l̶t̶ * should have added this
• 22 g olive oil

Obvious differences were:

1. Natural cocoa powder in place of Dutch-processed
2. 52% chocolate coverture in place of 70% bittersweet/dark chocolate, chopped
3. A small amount of olive oil in addition to melted butter
4. Omitting the use of a hand mixer in favour of a good ol' wire whisk
5. Baking continuously within the range of 330-360 F, without removing the tray halfway and banging on the countertop

​The batter was awfully thick, should you ask me, and didn't require the 2h cooling period that the recipe had specified.

After about 1h of cooling was enough to provide the slab with a sense of sturdiness. They did not resist the pressure of a serrated knife, though premature sampling definitely confirmed the need for extensive cool time.

When sampled at room temperature approximately sixty minutes after being removed from the pan, NYT's recipe was horribly cloying. My first takeaways were that: there was far too much sugar, followed by an absurd amount of flour/dry ingredients. Moreover the use of a hand mixer for a basic recipe hardly ever translates well. Of course, I alluded the tooth-achingly sugary qualities to my choice of natural cocoa and 52% chocolate, noting that further sugar reductions could likely take place for a more palatable outcome. I achieved a modest surface crackle, but nothing like the wispy shards of Sunday's edition, which strictly utilized granulated sugar and not a drop of molasses.

Dark brown sugar contributed noticeably nutty, caramel tones, but could potentially be swapped for light brown sugar as to preserve moistness without overwhelming the chocolate-forward profile. I wouldn't eliminate molasses altogether though, for the moistness achieved was rather splendid.

Using a small amount of olive oil also helped to create a pliable, fudgy cross-section. The interior was glossy and inviting, and even retained subtly herbaceous notes of the oil of choice. Those unfond of olive oil can opt for a neutral-tasting alternative, but steer clear of canola at all costs.

I appreciated the lightly fruity aura of natural cocoa, but can see the value of Dutch-processed in the face of sweetened chocolate chips or substantial chocolate shards. Although the cocoa choice ultimately boils down to personal preference, the acidic component of natural cocoa should be noted when adjusting the recipe for pH variations.

​A sprinkle of flakey salt is often recommended if readily available. To prevent the addition from masking the inherent qualities of the formula though, I opted to omit it for this trial.

​Towards the end of last fall, I booked a trip to Asia - the birthplace of K-Pop and GOT7, to be exact. Ironing out the logistics, comparing accommodations, and evaluating the individual transit/tourist attraction options hasn't been the most entertaining, but this is not the time and place to explaining the grueling process.

Whilst preparing the "fun" itinerary for my upcoming trip, my search landed upon scalp treatments. The session was offered by most foreigner-friendly (ie. English-speaking) salons, with the session spanning 80-90 minutes of a before-treatment analysis (complete with photos of the hair follicle), scalp and neck massage, and post-treatment review. I quickly made a deposit for a salon in Myeongdong, only to discover the availability of such a treatment closer to home.

With the promising review of foodrealm and an ongoing Spring Festival/Valentine's Day promotion, I was persuaded into securing an appointment at Bliss Head Spa immediately. It also helped that the promotional offer was priced at essentially half of my anticipated treatment abroad. The allure intensified with a two-person discount on the Facial and Scalp Massage bundle. Initially, I had requested the Aqua Oxygen Treatment, but was told that the machine was out of service. I reverted to the basic Facial as a result, then booked the bundle for both my browsing partner and I. 

It had worked in our favour that the spa operated on statutory holidays and that the final day of Family Day long weekend was, thankfully, free of heavy snowfall. Caution was nevertheless exercised during navigation, for not all roads nor parking lots had been fully cleared.

The door immediately revealed the waiting area and reception desk. Positioned adjacent to the entrance were a handful of shoe trays - not enough to support their steady inflow of customers - and a shelf with refreshments of tea, crispy milk crackers, and the signature Chinese grocery guava hard candy.

With the final days of the HST break coinciding with Valentine's Day, my browsing partner and I had deemed it unwise to dine out for the Hallmark holiday. For starters, I was none too fond of the supposed "specials" that many dining establishments claimed to be exclusive. Moreover, reservations tend to fill up quickly, meaning exacerbated chaos and, usually, subpar service. The tax break would likely incite a surge in customer volumes as well.

A total of four cake slices were ordered in advance for pickup, with the assortment left to the decision of my browsing partner. By using the dedicated mobile app, users would also receive a complimentary croissant with their first order. That said, I did not personally lay eyes on this Raspberry Almond Croissant, valued at $6.89 before tax.

Admittedly surprising was the omission of the bakery's signature Strawberry Soft Cream from the selection. The rationale was that the specimen appeared "too basic", to which my response was "The more basic, the more to learn.". Seeing as I had crafted my own Strawberry Shortcake in the past, it would have been interesting to compare and contrast the slices, especially the soft cream component (aka my greatest weakness).

Red Velvet

In unveiling the items, the sight of Red Velvet caused my face to scrunch ever so slightly. Removing the acetate sheet and cake board was somewhat challenging, for the North American favourite was saturated in both hue and moisture level. Exceptionally porous were the sponge layers, as noted in their distinctly large voids. In spite of their thickness though, the cake was far from dense. Intensely red sponge, sliced strawberries, and a strawberry-flavoured cream were alternated to form the three-layer concoction. A duo of glazed strawberries and chocolate decoration adorned the surface; the latter supplied greater enjoyment, for the fruit was out-of-season, bland, and even a tad bitter.​

Is it the flu, or is it another sinus infection? What started as a sore throat on Friday evening quickly escalated to full face congestion the next day. On Sunday, I awoke to a blazing fever with temperatures soaring to the 100.5 and 101 F mark. Plenty of fluids and the introduction of Tylenol helped to suppress the fieriness, for sick discharge was exiting my body as rapidly as I was replenishing liquids.
Low fevers persisted at the start of the work week, causing me to be unable to meet office attendance requirements and call in sick instead. At my worst, I was barely able to move. Pain and pressure would envelop my temples and around the eyes, while dizziness would prevail when agitated.

These symptoms continued into the subsequent days, though my tolerance for daily routine was steadily returning. For starters, I could resist the outdoor temperatures even in the face of yet another car battery issue. This incident marked the third occurrence in the span of just three-and-a-half weeks! As revealed in the test results, I was due for a new battery - not one year later, as the other technicians had noted, but immediately.

The drive had been prompted by an UberEats listing of Hershey's Unsweetened Cocoa at Sobeys. Of course, the shelves were completely barren when I arrived. The sizable blocks of Callebaut nearby served to be of some interest, though I ultimately departed empty-handed.

​My subsequent trip to Iqbal Foods, a supposed "Halal superstore", for a Lebanese natural cocoa powder also resulted in vain. Besides Frys (and Caminos, if offered), it appeared that all cocoa powder had magically vanished from grocery shelves!

​I took note of the selection of Jaggery, a cane sugar that my Southeast Asian coworkers often rage about, then strode a few steps down towards COBS Bread.