Out & About #847 | Apple Mania (Part 2)

Zealously having picked three (or four?) times more than the rest of Chudleigh's other patrons, we took home about forty-ish apples. Amongst this assortment were:

• Northern Spy

​Referred to as the dedicated "Pie Apple", these were the largest species observed. True to the description, they did indeed taste like "pie apples" in that, consumed raw, they retained their shape but also exuded a juicy freshness upon biting. This species was the quickest to oxidize. Peeling away the dusty skin revealed numerous bruises, along with tender areas. This revelation was quite shocking, as we had taken to picking the apples personally, thus eliminating any potential surface damage sustained through the transport process.
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• Kerr Mini

With an appearance that could be mistaken for plums, these golf ball-sized apples were either deep purple or marooon in hue. We sampled one prior to picking, noting its dense, tart properties. Albeit dense, it was quite juicy. Though, I couldn't think of any uses beyond eating out of hand.

• Creston

The most apple-like variety to lay eyes on, these sported a red-yellow cloak with a fragrant fleshy interior. These were best suited eating out of hand; minimal bruising was observed.

• McIntosh
  

Stouter and wider than the Northern Spy, this white-fleshed apple is generally easy to find in grocery stores, but often retailed at a price point steeper than its worth. True to user reviews, McIntosh disintegrated quickly after coming into contact with heat, proving most suitable for applesauce (rather than apple jam). Left too long, these can also turn powdery.
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• Mutsu

Larger than Ginger Gold and roughly two shades lighter than Granny Smith, I had expected tartness and structural integrity from this breed. Its skin was unmistakably thicker than Ginger Gold; there was also a greater quantity of discard: rotten centres, bruised surfaces, and questionably tender areas. Again, I couldn't pinpoint the reasoning behind the damages sustained, as we had obtained the apples directly from the tree and kept them secure throughout transit.
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• Fuji

Smaller and less vibrant than its neighbours down south, Ontario Fuji tasted less floral than Washington imports. Nonetheless, they were delicious.

Naturally, these apples were subject to participation in the second round of Apple Mania.

1) Apple Cake with Oat Crunch Crumble

​After peeling, coring, and slicing upwards of nine apples the morning after, I proceeded to construct the Apple Crumble Cake I had visited just over one month ago. The base of Sunday Baking's Blueberry Crumble Cake was utilized (doubled); just as before, the formula was thick and difficult to spread throughout the base of the pan. However, I remained confident that the cake would steadily acquire volume in the oven, resisting the weight of the apple slices arranged on top.

Instead of meticulously arranging wispy thin slices on the surface, I took to alternating layers of cake and apple. This time, the slices measured 1/3 to 1/2 inch in thickness. Distributed in clumps about the surface was a crunchy oat topping, modified from SK's formula with the addition of an measured quantity of porridge oats.

​Results were fabulous and crunchy. However, do heed my advice: The cake should be cooled to room temperature before removing from the pan and portioning. Cracks propagated in a ripple format through the crumble topping when the cake was removed, as structural integrity had yet to be established. Apple slices barely set in the batter prevented clean, sharp cuts. Furthermore, alkalinic notes from the baking powder were perceived when the cake was sampled warm.

2) Apple Jam/Applesauce

Looking to revisit Apple Cinnamon Oatmeal in a format far superior to Quaker's instant, I finely diced odd bits of apple from the other recipes and slid them into my trusty bread machine for another go at Apple Jam. Unfortunately, these meticulous chopping efforts were in vain. The McIntosh variety disintegrated, causing the formula to be grittier than viscous. There were a few bits that retained their shape - probably Mutsu and potentially Creston - but, for the vast majority, the jam was more reminiscent of applesauce.

​Four cups (and a bit) of finely diced apples equated to 687g. To this amount, 1 cup of brown sugar was added, along with spices such as cinnamon, ground ginger, and a sprinkle of nutmeg. The resulting consistency was thick, yet not sticky, while the flavour profile was generally too tart for my liking.

3) Apple Pie Attempt

A combination of Norther Spy, McIntosh, and Fuji were utilized for the first Apple Pie attempt. Majority of the slices held their shape after being submerged in hot water for ten minutes, however it should be noted that the lack of a lattice top had allowed too much moisture to escape during the baking process, causing them to roast instead of tenderize.

The apples were tasty, nevertheless, offering soft insides within neatly crisped up edges. Though, having discarded most of the glutinous rice flour-thickened juices, I was left with merely apples on a crust, with a pasty half-lattice. Beyond committing to the poor decision of only using dough remnants for the lattice, I had forgotten the egg wash altogether while rushing it back into the oven after blind-baking (not necessary in this case, for the crust will soften regardless).

4) Apple Pie (Again)

​Utterly dissatisfied with the earlier turnout, I set out for redemption. The apple count was drastically reduced from six medium-large mixed varieties to four small-medium ones. Blindbaking was not undertaken/accounted for. A proper lattice was constructed, inclusive of flower-shaped embellishments.

The apples were peeled, cored, and sliced the evening prior, then tossed with brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, cinnamon, ginger powder, and a sprinkle of nutmeg. In place of glutinous rice flour was the North American standard of cornstarch, roughly two tablespoons' worth. SK's ever-reliable crust recipe was executed (with the exception of ice water), and all elements were placed into the fridge for assembly the next morning.

Observations:

• Chilled pie dough should be allowed to rest for 15-20 mins at room temperature prior to rolling out. Rolling immediately while cold resulted in cracking, which only worsened with a well-floured surface.
• Frozen pie dough can be gradually thawed for use from the freezer by: first transferring to the fridge the day before and then to room temperature for improved work-ability. That said, frozen sheets are often found to achieve less volume as freshly-made (never frozen) dough and brown quicker when baked. Tl;dr: Use fresh pie dough for best results.
• For SK's recipe, the dough should ideally be portioned into 40:60, or maybe even 30:70 for use in a lattice top applie pie. There is quite a bit of leftover after cutting out the lattice, and any small decorations burned rapidly, appearing coal-like as opposed to warm and golden.
• Egg wash is mandatory, as is coarse sugar.

While I'm not keen on awarding myself full marks, I'd declare the trial a solid 80%. It wasn't my best lattice and the bottom crust was still softer than I would have liked. That said, two tablespoons of cornstarch assisted in keeping an excess of moisture at bay. Truthfully, I have minimal complaints with regards to textural contrast and flavour profile, but deducted points for visuals, exploding juices, and tragic pan-cleaning procedures. 
In future attempts, I shall likely increase the quantity to three tablespoons, or combine 2 tbsp cornstarch and 1 tbsp glutinous rice flour. The apples were delicious, and held up well throughout the baking process. The quantity should really not surpass three large apples or four small-medium ones.

​A leftover piece of pie crust burnt within the first twenty minutes of baking. It reeked of burnt-ness, yet a flaky cross-section persisted. At this point, I do deem the springform tart pan an unfitting choice for apple pie. Pecan Pie tends to thrive in this form, though apple, with all its sweet juices, ought be reserved for ceramic or glass dishes.

5) Apple Cinnamon Muffins

​While McD's seasonal rendition had been great and all, one unit had been sufficient enough for my research purposes. Apple Cinnamon Muffins were constructed following consultation of SK and in accordance to Sunday Baking's Salted Carmel & Cinnamon Cupcakes, minus the cinnamon whipped cream frosting.

I had chopped the apples into bite-sized chunks the night prior, allowing them to macerate in a mixture of brown sugar, lemon juice, and cinnamon. This extra shot of sugar was forgotten as I proceeded to hurriedly compile several recipes in the span of a few hours the next day.

For recipes that swap melted butter for oil, I am always skeptical of the turnout. Often had my kitchen filled with greasy fumes, excessively moist cakes, and a deficiency in olfactory allure. But I trusted Sunday - her oil-based recipes had never failed me before.

My item of desire would possess an airy cross-section, an element I knew only to be achieved with an oil-based batter. The inclusion of apples and their brining liquid would lead me to reduce the quantity of milk from 150g to 74g. In hindsight, I ought to have added a bit more (80-90g?) and perhaps up to 1/2 tsp of baking soda to offset the double dose of brown sugar in the recipe.

With the yield estimating eighteen servings (for both Sunday and SK), I took to distributing the tacky batter across a standard muffin tray of 12 and two mini loaf pans. The tops emerged golden with the subtle sparkle of coarse sugar.

​They were spiced and delicious, just as I had anticipated, but, regrettably, far too sweet. The sweetness was overwhelming to say, in the least.

6) Apple Frangipane Tart in a Chocolate Shell

This three-part tart constituted the most complex dessert of the lineup. Formed the evening prior was a chocolate tart shell that used one egg yolk for structure and stability and almond frangipane. The latter required up to three hours of chill time before use. As the tart shell would also need to be chilled before rolling, both were left to reside in the fridge overnight.

​The next morning, I allowed the cocoa-tinted dough to thaw for 15 minutes for rolling. It was fitted into my loose bottom tart pan - now very battered due to recent consistent usage -, pricked with a fork, and then blindbaked. While in wait of the shell to cool completely, I began to slice four apples: two red and two green. The reds were either Creston or Northern Spy, for their flesh was yellow instead of McIntosh white; the greens were a tart Mutsu.

​These slices were supposed to macerate for ten minutes after being tossed in lemon juice and granulated sugar. Though, I think they ought to have been left longer for improved flexibility.

​Once the shell was cool to touch, almond frangipane was smeared over the bottom. Alternating slices of greens and reds, a rose pattern was formed with the apple slices. The centre pieces snapped instead of rolling into a delicate centre, but the tart was beautiful nonetheless. I had, miraculously, been able to maintain a uniform thickness while operating completely manually.

The slices shriveled and browned slightly as they cooked, rendering them too tender (read: stringy) to glide even the sharpest of knives through. Cocoa-y properties of the crunchy tart shell stole the spotlight, and the almond frangipane, while delicious, receded into the background.

It sufficed to conclude that gustatory satisfaction levels were disproportionate to effort expended. The flavours weren't quite harmonious, in spite of the complementary textures. That said, I was proud of myself for undertaking the seemingly elaborate design. Aesthetic appeal in food items are not specialty, after all.

​7) Apple Slab Pie

Of the four apples I had thinly sliced for the Apple Frangipane Tart, only two were utilized. Thinking quickly, I resolved to use the remaining half-portion of dough I had constructed for the second Apple Pie.

Recalling the Caramel Apple Slab Pie from Chudleigh's, I began to assemble ingredients for a caramel sauce - specifically, Sunday Baking's Salted Caramel Sauce. Its use would not be restricted to cupcakes, nor dipping apple slices as snacks.

​Allowing the dough to come to room temp, I rolled it out to as close to a rectangle as possible. The entirety of the remaining apple slices were arranged within; lastly, I sliced and folded the dough over in part galette-style/part Danish-style. Sealing its edges and surface was the leftover egg white I had retained from creation of the chocolate tart shell. I hadn't anticipated much of a golden sheen in the absence of yolk, however was pleasantly surprised to discover not only even browning, but a wispy thin surface adorning each strip. 

​Despite being a spontaneous project to utilize leftovers, the turnout was impressive: a stellar example of effort-to-gustatory-satisfaction efficiency.

8) Layered Apple Cheesecake Cups

I was eager to find a purpose for the too-tart, applesauce-like jam, and individual cheesecake cups seemed a good idea, especially with a group gathering nearing. Apple Jam V2 (not pictured) emerged as a too-sweet, gelatin-stabilized formula. The two were combined without hesitation to form a brown sugar-laden layer with discernible pieces of apple.

​A cheesecake mousse layer was sourced from one of thousands of no-bake recipes on the Internet, with its chocolate component replaced with vanilla extract and vanilla bean paste.

From there, I piped and spooned the layers into disposable plastic containers, alternating apple and cheesecake until there was none left. Surface gaps were filled with Salted Caramel Sauce, which was the sole element to never fully set.

​Within the first few hours of chilling, the cheesecake layer proved excessively creamy and satiating. After residing in the fridge overnight, however, the texture improved and cheesy essences triumphed. Contents of the cups are, admittedly, too sweet for my liking - a result of the staggering powdered sugar amount. Though, dare I say it, they look more enticing than ever after undergoing the packaging process.

The remainder of the apples were eventually subject to consumption in their raw form, peeled and cored with the assistance of a piece of plastic machinery equipped with a rotary wheel and small - but sharp! - blade.

Several errands were fulfilled throughout the week, including acquisition of a doctor's note for extreme stress levels and picking up a local "Food Zine", which featured my birthday buddy as a co-artist.

​Amongst the features were I Love Pho and Tomo Sushi, various elements of the experience illustrated to an incredible level of detail.

​Beyond concoctions constituting the second round of Apple Mania, the week consisted primarily of homecooked meals, a Pistachio Hot Chocolate with mini marshmallows (quite delicious), and Halloween-shaped KitKat.

​Chudleigh's Orchard Cider was also sampled and declared a phenomenal pairing for savoury dishes. As with any carbonated beverage though, the bottle should ideally be depleted in one sitting. Replacing the cap and sealing tightly with plastic wrap and an elastic extended the sweet fizziness for one more day. But, by the third day, the fluid was flat.

​The farm's Rosé Cider shall be unveiled at a later date for celebratory purposes.