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Out & About #756 | Gyu-Kaku

10/22/2021

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Upon seeing those in ostentatious outfits take their elaborately assembled ensembles to the fumey facilities of indoor barbecue restaurants, I've always wondered: Why?
The smells permeate every thread adorning the body, scenting most severely cotton clothing and just-cleaned tresses. One returns reeking of grill elements, which then proceed to linger for days onward. It's an experience from which I derive little enjoyment, chiefly as by no means a carnivorous creature.​
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The proposal of Gyu-Kaku was not one of my own, needless to say. It marked the first foray into a Japanese barbecue establishment, with the exception of takeout from Takumi. Having perused the menu in advance, we had agreed on the assortment in the Chef's Favourite course. In particular, I had been eyeing the Gyu Sushi.

An OpenTable reservation was arranged. Taking to the same parking garage as short-lived excursions to Kariya Park and Gong Cha, we proceeded to ground level via one of the many stairwell accesses. Signage indicated travel via elevator, yet the nearby concierge hollered at us, "WHERE ARE YOU GOING?!". I pointed innocently to the sign and its directional arrow, at which point he engaged in a thorough description of a long-winded way to the restaurant. Apparently, Gyu-Kaku was situated in the neighbouring building; it mattered not to me, and I proceeded with this route. Yet, in a matter of seconds, he angrily stood up, plastered on a mask, and pointed back towards the parking garage from which we had come. We departed as told, not because it was the quicker route, but because his tone had replaced all trailblazing innovation with utmost annoyance.
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​Verification of proof of vaccinations took place by the entrance. Through the plexiglass barrier, our QR codes were scanned and ID scrutinized by the two hostesses. Having confirmed compliance, we were guided to a booth behind the cashier. It was situated at the connecting point of the bar, kitchen entrance, party room, and main corridor of the dining floor, entailing both ease of access in flagging a member of staff and noise levels rivalling yumcha at peak periods.
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At the centre of our table was a large, circular grill and at its edge a trio of condiments. Behind the array of dipping sauces sprouted a thin metal rod with an angled attachment at its top, similar to a mini mic stand, with spout-like contraption instead. It was later learned that the apparatus was an extinguishing device in case of accidental combustion. The response had come following initiation of the question on the customer side, and no safety protocols were discussed otherwise. In the presence of high heat and flammable materials, I would anticipate words of caution to be uttered at the bare minimum, by any member of the floor staff.
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Our server greeted us with flickers of anxiety in his eyes. His tone was kind, albeit a bit unsteady, offering contrast to his sturdy build, character-filled upper limbs, and overall able-bodied appearance. He confirmed it was our first visit, then introduced the menu in a rather rapid manner. New information was obtained beyond our previous research: I learned the definition of "Umakara", the hybrid term for "umami" (savouriness), "amami" (sweetness), and "karami" (spiciness) and the disheartening news that the Gyu Sushi had sold out. If choosing from the BBQ Courses, we had the option of substituting with an alternate appetizer, with Tuna Takaki and Fried Chicken Karaage being popular swaps.
Sake Cocktails were supposedly rarely picked, as draft pints and house sake overwhelmed in popularity. He noted decency of the Sake Screwdriver from his experience as a customer, though the highball cocktail was too common of a combination to pique my interest.
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​Adopting consistency with original plans, the Chef's Favourite set was requested, with drinks of a Shirley Temple and draft Sapporo to start. The former was a special request put forth as a suggestion in place of the standard juice order, and later affirmed by the manager. Served in a tall, monogrammed glass, the draft formula boasted an undeniably fresher taste, free from the stannic undertones of the jarring process of individual bottles/cans. Best of all, the pint rang in at a reasonable six dollars.
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Miso Soup was served shortly. The bowls contained roughly chopped scallions and involved a surprising presence of soft tofu. They were swell starters in the face of plummeting temperatures, yet only half was consumed to conserve stomach capacity.
Gyu-Kaku Salad and Napa Kimchi arrived next. While the kimchi appeared to be outsourced and inadequately fermented (ie. sour), the medley of greens was greatly appreciated. The fresh mix of lightly-dressed greens, cherry tomatoes, and cucumber would prove essential in alleviating satiation sustained from the meat-dominant meal. Wedges of hard-boiled egg were also well-received for protein content.

In place of the Gyu Sushi was the Tuna Tataki, the only plate of the evening that hailed from the sea. Presented before us were four slabs of tuna nicoise, much less vibrant that the slices adorning salads of similar nature. Again spotted were the ever-so-roughly chopped scallions, this time joined by pickled onion and bitter fragments of fried garlic. These fragments hovered about room temperature, with a snappy, cracker-like consistency rather than the anticipated sharp crunch; the deviation confirmed outsourced origins once more.
It didn't occur to us until much later that the Garlic Shio Cabbage had failed to make an appearance altogether.
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​With the grill preheated and appetizers partially sampled, the first of the meat dishes began to enter the playing field. Our server recommended cooking times of forty-five seconds on each side for the Harami Skirt Steak and Prime Kalbi Short Rib, and sixty seconds for the Filet Mignon. Alas, the heat output was inconsistent, and the sections proved chewier than desired.

The manager proposed a table change, professing poor performance of the grill at our existing seating. We relayed receptivity to this suggestion, migrating to a brighter, quieter section of the dining area as multiple members of the serving crew assisted in the shift. New bowls of miso soup were offered, however we opted to abandon them in the face of more captivating dishes.
With the move saw an instant surge of delectability. The sections adopted delightfully crisp edges while maintaining tenderness at its centres. The marinades emanated throughout, infusing with charcoal essences from the grill.
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In reign was the Harami Skirt Steak, a miso-marinated specimen with uniform marbling of flesh and fat. This was succeeded by the Filet Mignon, satisfying chunks of beef at a lower fat content, and lastly the sweet-soy-flavoured Prime Kalbi Short Rib. The connotation of "last" intends not to assign a distinct hierarchy, for the thinner cuts were equally delicious, yet perhaps not as memorable as the Skirt Steak or Filet Mignon in regards to texture.

Beef Sukiyaki Bibimbap was served in a hot stone pot. Our server offered to mix the components for us, and urged to us to do so swiftly should we undertake the task ourselves. Based on previous experiences from Hub, the act posed minimal difficulty. That said, the dolsot was likely not hot enough to generate 飯焦 (alternatively referred to as "crunchy rice"). The flimsy spoons were another aspect garnering wariness. In spite of crispy rice components, the dish was thoroughly tasty: well-seasoned with several strips of marinated sukiyaki meat.
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​The next trio comprised of Umakara Ribeye, Pork Belly, and Shrimp Garlic.
Assuming a format of smaller shards, the ribeye involved quick flips on the grill to prevent burning. It was odd to see ribeye presented as such.

A departure from samgyupssal, the Pork Belly was nice and thin, allowing for swift, hatched charring. It also comprised of more flesh than its Korean counterpart, which is too greasy and satiating for my liking. 
The Shrimp Garlic left an astounding impression, more intense than I had ever expected. Although a few checks were required to ensure doneness, its bouncy texture (爽ness!) and garlicy brininess were impeccable.
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Broccoli with Cheese arrived in two separate aluminum containers: a pouch rolled shut and a disposable rimmed basket. I could have easily done without the cheese, for fondness for cheddar is lacking, especially the synthetic blocks of tackiness. The chunks melted instantaneously once set on the grill, yet seized once removed. On the other hand, the broccoli florets had been coated (with presumably butter) and rolled into the foil bag, such that they could steam-cook once on the grill. This ensured tenderness without fear of being bland.
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The concept of Japanese barbecue is relatively foreign to me, yet a few distinct differences from K-BBQ would be:
  • Meat cut variety and size (pre-portioned for ease of consumption)
  • Marinade and pre-marination process (vs. completely raw meat to be later doused in sauce)
  • Grill height and format (submerged grid vs elevated with ring of egg and cheese)
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Nowithstanding my general indoor barbecue concerns, Gyu-Kaku was an admittedly spectacular experience. Beyond the extremely tender beef and oustanding food quality was the accomodating service. Complimentary parking up to four hours was an added perk.
Individual bathroom stalls were located by the entrance, but where viable, it is recommended to take our business elsewhere in review of their cleanliness status.
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Quirky =  a term that commonly refers to something/someone distinctly different and unique
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