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Out & About #414 | REDS Square One

1/25/2018

 
​Square One's ongoing renovations means consistent detours for drivers and commuters alike. The new luxury wing introduced COS and Tory Burch in late 2017, while the semi-recent Simons section became home to the Love Me Sweet/Eva's Original Chimneys/Squish collaboration store.

REDS Wine Tavern was also spotted entering the scene towards December of last year. With a dusty red brick exterior, lofty ceiling, and dark, sophisticated décor, the restaurant was the chain's first foray into the Mississauga market.
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​Given its proximity to my regular errand-running stops, I've passed by - and peeked into - their bakery area and grab-and-go counter on more than one occasion. Their 2-Bite Butter Tarts had been secured one fateful day, bringing about pleasantly surprising results.
A glimpse into the kitchen piqued curiosity, paving the way for a proper evaluation of their famed "Scratch Kitchen" entrées.

A prompt welcome was extended from the hostess, and we were ushered into the dimly-lit dining area. Seating filled majority of the visible open space, whether in the form shiny black booths, two-person bar stools, or wooden group tables. Each of the 4-person tables featured a single overhead spotlight, as warm as it was harsh; glowy patches of illumination were seen on the larger ones.
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​Menus adopted the from of a substantially-sized rectangular board. Presented on one side were the restaurant's regular offerings, and the other a Tasting Menu comprising of their top three meat dishes and two sides.
The broad selection caused indecisiveness as did the absence of the prix fixe menu spotted online. Eventually, we settled on a Nova Scotia Lobster Guac to start, and a few protein-based plates to share. A Wild Mushroom Soup was also added to the order.
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​After confirming our requests, the waitress gathered our menus and spun swiftly on her heel.
In less than two minutes, a different member of staff appeared at the table with two shallow acacia bowls in hand.

We couldn't quite believe our ears when she uttered the name of the dish, as it hadn't even been five minutes since the table had been cleared of irresolution. Milliseconds later, the Wild Mushroom Soup also bore its display of beige-grey chunkiness.
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​The Nova Scotia Lobster Guac was depicted as the unity of "guajillo chili dressed lobster, fresh guac, and crisp tortillas". In concept, the appetizer succeeded in combining the exoticism of Mexican seasonings with buttery avocado, adding further depth via chili-laced shellfish. Execution-wise, the microscopic mound of the dip fell short of both its description and price tag.
​Where one bowl was overflowing with shards of sodium- and spice-laden tortilla chips, the other contained a puny portion of the half-smashed green substance topped with an even tinier scoop of lobster flesh. The chips were salty - horrendously so - and not even the sprinkle of paprika could counter its powers.
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View the full album HERE !
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​Tinted red were the fragments of lobster; neither particularly spicy nor flavourful, it simply gave off the feeling of involuntary attendance. A sense of cohesion had been lost, leading the guacamole and lobster to serve as two independent entities occupying the same space. The guacamole itself was fine - enjoyable even - however, conclusively speaking, its 19.95 price tag was unwarranted.
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​The Wild Mushroom Soup maintained the viscosity of typical blended soups, but was thankfully devoid of the standard salt punches in other franchises. Aromatic as it was, it was a solid pick for fungi lovers. The chives and spice blend utilized as seasoning, on the other hand, were less deserving of my appreciation. I coiled back in a grimace, but other members of my party seemed to enjoy it tremendously.
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< Pictured above and below: Chipotle Sirloin, Prime Rib, and REDS Flash Roasted Chicken (1/2 Chicken) >

A lag time averaging fifteen to twenty minutes took place between the arrival of appetizers and delivery of entrées, presumably to encourage guests to order more small plates and/or alcohol while in linger.
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Chipotle Sirloin was an intriguing alternative to the all-too-common peppercorn variation. The 7 oz. cut was cooked to a commendable medium-rare, its cross-section exhibiting an exemplary rich pink uniformity. The meat itself was juicy and tender, but it seemed as if the addition of a Chipotle-style blend lent only a slight twinge of tartness.
Served alongside were string beans, a spoonful of diced golden and red beets, and a pile of mashed potatoes upholding a lone cheese shard. The shreds of red skin added texture, though insufficient butter caused the overall taste to veer from smooth to starchy. Goat cheese butter also made an appearance on top of the sirloin, looking very much akin to melted cheddar.
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​Our waitress had noted the Prime Rib to be a very substantial amount of sustenance, and indeed it was. The thick beef slice had first been slathered in a dark, glossy gravy, then arranged atop a mountain of carbs (mashed potatoes and Yorkshire pudding). Green beans and a container of pungent horseradish cream were also present.
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Personally, the Prime Rib was my least favourite item of the meal. The gravy was thick without contributing depth of flavour, the Yorkshire pudding was dry and spongy, and the overly rich horseradish cream was satiating/overpowering. Instead of sporting layers comprising of interwoven fat and flesh, the heavy slab possessed segments of inedible lard and then lean meat in other spots. Albeit tender, the Prime Rib was disappointing by lack of compexity and strong resemblance to diner-style steamed minced pork (瘦肉).
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​Last to arrive was the prized signature of the restaurant: REDS Flash Roasted Chicken. As the one-and-only namesake dish (and sole chicken entrée on the menu), expectations were reasonably high. Offered in limited quantities, we had made sure to place our order just as the next batch of chickens were on their way out of the oven.
Its presentation was not unlike Swiss Chalet-esque rotisserie chicken plates, with heavily-seasoned roasted potatoes and charred brocolli on the side. Upon closer inspection, however, one was able to observe a wispy thin sheet of golden brown skin.
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​The 1/2 Chicken portion included sections of the breast and thigh - two very different parts that are difficult maintain uniformity in cookedness.
I stabbed the topmost piece, first piercing the crispy exterior, then sliding my knife into its interior quarters with minimal effort. Amazed at the ease of dissection, I could only fathom the profile which I was about to discover.
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REDS Flash Roasted Chicken reinvented the flavours of chicken for me.
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I had not the faintest idea where the texture had originated, nor how I was experiencing suppleness, delicate yet powerful brininess, and silky crunchiness simultaneously within the same bite.
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​It was as if the skin had separated into two layers: the outermost possessed little to no moisture at all, leading to its ultimate crispiness, while its underside was softer with a thin lining of fat. Think Cantonese roast duck, but lighter in hue and less greasy.
Concealed within was a bounty of pale, tender fleshiness bearing the ideal amount of marinade. The meat was lean, unlike ramen chashu, though had been roasted to such buttery soft tenderness that all remnants succeeded in dissolving in one's mouth upon contact.
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​Gone now are the days where I complain about overcooked chicken breast. I know REDS carries the solution to my woes. It's a ridiculously fair $24.75 for the most mindblowing chicken dish to ever enter the scene.
The roasted potatoes, though, were on heavily seasoned side and retained too powdery of an aftertaste for my preferences.
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​Concluding the meal was dessert in the form of their Freshly Baked Apple Pie. A scoop of House Churned Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream or PEI Avonlea cheddar could be added for an additional two dollars. We opted for the former option without hesistation.

About twice the size of other franchises, the Scratch Kitchen's best-selling pie stunned by means of both taste and ingredient diversity. A casing of flaky puff pastry encompassed a heaping portion of softened Granny Smith apples. The filling met all the fundamental requirements of texture, temperature (ie. not scalding), and sweetness-tartness harmony. The lack of warmth in the pie aided in preventing immediate dissolution of the ice cream, which was immensely appreciated.
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​Approximately three tablespoons' worth of House Churned Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream rested on top a bed of oatmeal crumble. To our surprise, the scoop maintained its shape for the entire duration of consumption, even resisting disintegration into the underlying crumble. Frankly, I would have preferred stronger notes of vanilla and less sugar. Nonetheless, I appreciated the velvet-like composition, with specific admiration to the minimal portion of stabilizer.
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​Service was courteous, with slight twinges of attitude here and there. The staff appeared to have grown accustomed to the restaurant's operations over the 4-5 week period since opening, though proved to lack attentiveness in refilling water glasses and following up post-meal delivery.
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​Individual washroom stalls were found in a narrow hallway. Each stall was independent and sealed in entirety from ground to roof to ensure maximum privacy. Dual hooks and a full-length mirror had been installed behind the door, while a dyson hand dryer and framed wall art resided opposite. The illuminated mirror border was also a pleasant touch.
While the interior of the bathrooms were quite modern, points were deducted for lack of finishing (exposed wires), general absence of cleanliness (overflowing garbage bin), and insufficient pressure in the faucet. Paper towels were also nowhere to been when the hand dryer failed to remove moisture; stout guests may also find that the dryers are positioned too high for usage.
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​As we began to gather our belongings, two scrawny male members of staff hovered nearby. Before we had managed to fully remove ourselves from its perimeter, cleaning apparatus was launched in preparation. Impatience could be felt from its two users. Needless to say, we were not bid farewell.
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​It is also crucial to point out the lack of attention to detail. Each of the entrées had been delivered on plates that were not only unwiped and greasy, but also featured unknown substances on the undersides. Moreover, when we requested the remainder of our meals to be packed away for takeout, it was witnessed that food items had simply been forcefully enclosed, leaving sauce streaks on the box's exterior.
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Aside from the obvious need for customer service improvement, the Flash Roasted Chicken is truly not to be overlooked. A visit to REDS definitely isn't the most economic supper choice, but a taste of its signature plate is well worth it. ​(Be prepared to smell like your meal afterwards, in the most literal sense possible.)

REDS Square One Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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WHAT DOES "QUIRKY AESTHETICS" MEAN?

Quirky =  a term that commonly refers to something/someone distinctly different and unique
Aesthetics = the visual aspect of things



Together, Quirky Aesthetics refers to the things, events, and happenings seen and perceived by this blog's creator - quirky perspectives in a visual form.

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