Calgary | DAY 4: (Pt. 1) Johnston Canyon Hike - Lower + Upper Falls

The hours following the wedding confirmed two things for me:

1. Foreign environments abolish routine and wreck havoc on my body, primarily in the departments of digestion and sleep
2. Korean liquor and I is a duo that just doesn't do

Being away from home, or a general area of familiarity, brings about tremendous anxieties. As opposed to the adaptation measures required to thrive in new surroundings, it is the place of rest that incites the greatest of woes. For much like the four in-hotel evenings spent with the Thai ahgase, general discomfort was experienced in our hotel room in Calgary. My hands cracked painfully in response the dry conditions, while feelings of bloatedness persevered for nearly the entirety of our stay.

Makku, while delicious paired with my Birthday Cake cookie from Element, rendered the same nausea-filled response as soju and Jinro's larger format makgeolli. Later that evening, several hours after consumption of the 355 ml can, I suffered a horrible, pulsating headache to the right side of the head. It would resonate from the temple to the back side of the head, then back to the temple. Acidity was felt in the throat, with a looming sensation of vomiting. The sleepy polar bear was kind enough to place a plastic bag by the floor, should I require it.
At the late hour of 2 AM, I accidentally clogged the toilet. Concierge services, which were supposed to be available 24/7, were unresponsive. Instead of sending a member of the facilities team to remediate the situation, a plunger was merely provided for self-sufficiency. Thankfully, I am no stranger to unclogging toilets. The sleepy polar bear groggily awoke to retrieve the plunger, while I rolled up my sleeves to reinstate flushing capabilities to our unit.

Needless to say, neither of us were particularly energetic the next morning.
While I reached for my acquisitions from Barrow, the sleepy polar bear had ventured to the lobby for an AYCE breakfast buffet. Spectacularly flavourful was the Iced Americano - notably the best cup consumed during our short-lived stay. The Oat Bran Muffin was another pleasant surprise. Retailed at just $3.50, I was surprised to find impressive height and heartiness in the baked concoction. The combination served to supply fuel for the upcoming agenda items.

A late departure from the hotel led me to bump into the groom and his friend while exiting the elevator. "Are you joining yumcha?" the new husband inquired.
"Oh no, we gotta go. We're late!" I hastily responded before dashing out the automatic sliding doors. Moreover, yumcha? the thought of greasy Chinese food had me grimacing in contemplation.

When we had unsheathed ourselves in Signal Hill the previous day, I was already in awe at the sight of snowcapped mountains in the distance. Being an Ontarian, flat terrain was the norm; peaks and ridges were rarities. Driving westward, into the mountains, was a super surreal experience.

Sunny, blue skies served as the backdrop. The first forty minutes of the trip comprised primarily of asphalt, a handful of vehicles, and plains with advertising boards. Sightings along the way weren't entirely unlike northbound drives to cottage country, except for grazing cows instead of horses and mountains instead of barrenness.

​As we found ourselves weaving between the mountains, cloud cover increased overhead. Away from the azureness we went, diving deep into overcast climate. Rockiness surrounded us, as did bodies of water.

The trees were observed to be shockingly straight, as if pins manually arranged in a row. This same observation had been made while hiking in Vancouver: tall, exceptionally straight trees had bordered the trails within Lynn Canyon and also at the Capilano Suspension Bridge - a disparity from the wonky medley of unkept twiggy forestation observed in the GTA.

Along the way were a series of toll houses. While initially confused at the signage, I put a halt to the sleepy polar bear's attempted reversal. "Why are you reversing? Let's just drive up to the gate and ask."
A long-haired attendant poked her head out, asking if we intended to visit Banff National Park.
"We are looking to hike to Ink Pots." I called out from the passenger seat. "Do we still need to pay to hike even if we are not visiting the park?"
She clarified that we would be entering the park grounds in order to hike the Johnston Canyon trail, and that admission would be required if we did not already have a Parks Pass.

​Twenty-one dollars later, an introductory booklet was received. Our receipt, which stated access until 4 PM the following day, would be act as proof of payment and be taped to the windshield.

​The drive to Banff spanned approximately 90 minutes, however the total trip was an estimated two hours, one way.
 
We had planned a quick stopover at the Banff Visitor Centre for bear spray. Nearing city centre, log cabins were spotted along the perimeter. Some were occupied by locals, while others rent-able travel accommodations with snowboards leaned against its walls.

Being unable to find parking along the main corridors though, I suggested street parking and fast trekking. While the sleepy polar bear lagged behind, I dashed into Second Cup from the Wolf Street entrance, hoping to find bathrooms within. Observing the scene within, we found the franchise to connect to an indoor shopping plaza, called Cascade Shops. A flight of escalators would lead us to the food court level, where public bathrooms could be accessed. In spite of the heavy tourist traffic, cleaning was minimal and some stalls were absolutely appalling.

​In fear of hunger hitting later, I ventured over to Subway. While in wait for a Honey Mustard Ham Sidekick, the sleepy polar bear was summoned on a mission for bear spray. IDA did not carry the product, but IGA did. Reluctant to encourage quicker footsteps from my fellow hiker and risk wasting more time on the stopover, I resolved to continue onwards devoid of the protective aerosol. While entering unprepared did not provide peace of mind, I was, at the very least, relieved of unnecessary grouchiness from the less proactive of us two.

Beyond unexpected bear encounters, Parks closures were the second item of concern to me. During the planning phase, the Upper Falls stretch of Johnston Canyon had been closed for maintenance, with an expected reopening of "late January". I had resolved to hike the Lower Falls portion, then drive to Moose Meadows to continue to Ink Pots should it still be closed during our visit. Fortunately, the trail was announced reopened on February 3rd.

​Just after 1 PM, we pulled into the Johnston Canyon parking lot.

​It was with utmost glee that I pointed towards the building by the trailhead: Bathrooms!

Beyond the double doors were heat and indoor plumbing, elements delivering sheer relief to me in a region of little to no cellular reception. Pasted on the front of both doors were directions to remove ice cleats prior to entering the lavatories, likely to prevent floor damage. I had opted to strap on my spiked crampons after bathroom usage, adhering to the directions; on the contrary, two women equipped with hiking poles and strap-on cleats passed me by without heeding the warnings whatsoever.

​Suiting up appropriately, we commenced our hike at the 1:24 PM mark.

Our visit had coincided with the most beautiful of days: wintry yet warm; snowy sans sleet. The sleepy polar bear had shed a thick winter jacket in favour of Heattech topped with a reversible fleece jacket, while I retained my signature purple down jacket as well as a fuzzy Polartec zip-up vest underneath.

​Compacted snow filled majority of the trail, with only few sparse rocky bits around the caves. Our recently purchased crampons were rapidly deemed worthy investments, for the spikes gripped onto the snow with ease, providing enough support to traverse up and down steep inclines.

View the full album HERE !

There were many aspects of note even early into the hike. Snowcapped ridges, caves and rugged rock, icicles, and the same pin-straight trees from our drive came into view. The scenery was unlike anything I had ever witnessed in Ontario, even during winter hikes.

Johnston Canyon - Walkway

​Johnston Canyon absolutely beautiful! From the moment we set foot onto the path, I was astouded by the natural wonders of the West Coast. Even before nearing either falls, we were blessed with the combination of icy fixtures, clear, flowing turquoise waters beneath, and bedazzling view of the mountains.

Johnston Canyon - Walkway

​A distinctly forest green railing was present at all times during the trek. It included a fenced portion for additional protection, an essential feature when crossing over channels on elevated boardwalks. Beyond the path travelling adjacent to the Bow River channels, snow had also compacted along these curving, elevated pathways, obscuring the view from beneath the planks forming the boardwalk. This worked out in the favour of the sleepy polar bear, who has demonstrated an erratic fear of heights despite a high-rise upbringing.

​I paused countless times before reaching the Lower Falls, and had nearly mistaken several icicle-permeated ledges as the attraction given their grandeur.

​We eventually found the Lower Falls at a fork in the trail: To the left was an uphill climb to the Upper Falls; to the right was a gradual descent to an overpass leading to a cave.

​The Lower Falls was a two-part wonder. Directly before the bridge was a pool of vivid turquoise waters, its edges lined with translucent icy sheets. Snow-covered ice chunks resided above it, with delicate streams cascading down towards the pool. The second part of the attraction lay beyond the cave entrance.

Lower Falls Lookout Point - Bridge

​Sandy, snow-less, and rugged, the narrow entrance was not compatible with the spiked crampons at all. That said, the lofty Falls visible from the lookout deck justified every ounce of effort traversing through the tunnel.

Lower Falls Lookout Point - Cave

​Navigating to the Upper Falls entailed far more effort in comparison. Incredibly steep were the snow-covered steps, so much that both of us began to cling onto the railing for support. Might I add that, unlike Ontario, the railing was sturdy and well-maintained. The panels were aligned and possessed minimal patches of rust.

 Fantastical in its expanse, the Upper Falls emerged like a page out of Frozen. The Falls were frozen entirely on the outside, yet water continued to flow between the rocks and underneath the mountainous structure. A delicate haziness escaped from crevices between the boulders, many still dusted gently with snow for a lovely textural contrast.

Upper Falls Lookout Point - Upper Deck

Utterly awestruck, I couldn't resist bouncing from one lookout deck to the next, mouth agape admiring everything from the overall vastness to the striking, aquamarine icicles.
"Let it go, let it gooooooo" My eyes glimmered as I commenced the renowned OST track in a hushed voice to the sleepy polar bear, who failed to comprehend the reference altogether.

Upper Falls Lookout Point - Lower Deck

Johnston Canyon and both Lower and Upper Falls had bestowed upon the view of frozen falls I had been unable to locate back home. Varying varieties of waterfalls have been observed in the summer and fall seasons, though none completely frozen on the exterior with water continuing to flow underneath. Moreover, the spectacular turquoise waters were unique to the region, as were ice chunks of translucent white, blue, and beige.

Although we had reached the Upper Falls, the hike was not to conclude just yet. My watch read ten past three, at which point we began to debate whether the round trip to Ink Pots could be made before sundown. We estimated loss of light around 5 PM; nearby, a tour guide donning a cyan windbreaker piped up: "Sundown is 3:30 PM."
We turned to face him and his toque-topped treads. "That's when it starts, but you should have enough light until just past five. You guys have enough time."

Nodding in response, we started to navigate away from the lookout decks, where hiking enthusiasts and obvious tourists had clustered. Shortly into the trail, several observations were made: Not only were there were fewer hikers, but the fenced railing disappeared entirely. Waterside views had also vanished, and in its stead came a steep, winding path amongst lean, lofty evergreens.

​The sleepy polar bear, who had resorted to resting briefly at the Upper Falls, began to implore for washroom facilities. There were none within sight, likely none along the 3 km path to Ink Pots, and presumably only available upon returning to the trailhead.

I dashed past wails of fatigued lower limbs to survey the course ahead. Each turn on the path grew more exhausting than the last, for beyond meandering paths was a constant uphill climb. Unlike the first half of the hike, this route was devoid of benches and areas of respite.

​On one uphill segment, a fallen tree had tumbled onto the path, obstructing access for hikers. The man before me stepped over the trunk with ease, while I, being of shorter stature, opted to crouch underneath.

​My gaze met that of an older hiker as we crossed paths. The exchange of salutations drew attention to his bearded smile, the similar-looking crampons on his boots, and, most importantly, the hiking poles in his hands. In that moment, provisions for additional supports were mentally noted.

​I continued upwards, pausing not even once despite the huffing and puffing. When I turned back, the sleepy polar bear was nowhere to be seen. Re-aligning my gaze to the front, the taller hiker had also disappeared from view.
With each successive step, I could feel fatigue. The gradually permeating wobbliness in my legs reminded me that I was near depletion of my fuel reserve. Energy bars had not been acquired for the trip, and neither had safety blankets. Briefly glancing at my phone, I discovered the utter loss of reception. Upon quick evaluation of the available resources and my own waning energy levels, I made the tough decision to turn back.

Retracing my steps, I assured myself that this was the correct decision. "Exhaustion can be dangerous. What if I roll my ankle? Who will carry me back down?" I continued, "Without signal and illumination, we would be stranded without water, food, or heat."

​Within minutes of routing back, I found the sleepy polar bear once more, and we stuttered down the snowy, declining path. As much as the spiked crampons provided support for striding on compacted snow, they provided the additional benefit of traction while descending, much to the relief of my knees.

​The return trip was, as predicted, much speedier than the hike towards the Falls. I had completed my fair share of photo-taking, thus the focus had shifted to a rapid rebound. Awaiting us at the end of the hike would be washrooms and the sweet relief of a heated, signal-equipped vehicle.

Admittedly, I was disappointed in myself for failing to finish the entire hike. On the contrary, I was quite impressed with the sleepy polar bear, given our distinct differences in energy levels, determination, and overall hiking experience. Once aware of my own fatigue, I adopted the conservative approach of turning back; however, the sleepy polar bear had surprisingly agreed to continue with me even when the climb evidently exceeded regular energy reserve.

Hiking Route, partially captured due to limited signal service

The Johnston Canyon hike was exceptional and well worth the drive out from Calgary. The following should be noted for those wishing to attempt this trail:

• Crampons are not optional: The economic boot accessories are mandatory for winter hikes on compacted snow, with a solid 70% of all hikers sporting the add-ons.
• Heed the notes and warnings on the Banff National Parks website and plan accordingly:

       1. Bear spray was recommended for hiking near the Rockies. The product is pricey, and not suitable for transporting back home, thus would advise evaluating:
             i) Noise levels along the trail - higher noise levels (tourist trails) equate to lower chance of bear exposure
             ii) Climate conditions - winter commonly constitutes hibernation periods, though aren't entirely devoid of the carnivoran mammal.

       2. Trail conditions are updated regularly, indicating the type of footwear needed for safe hiking
             
       3. The "Easy" and "Moderate" difficulty levels are accurate.
             a) The Johnston Canyon Lower Falls and Upper Falls hikes are "Easy" and tourist-friendly, despite their elevation. A fenced railing is present throughout and nicely maintained.
             b) The section between Johnston Canyon Upper Falls and Ink Pots is catered more towards hiking enthusiasts; hiking poles are recommended to combat the constant uphill trek.

• Winter is a wonderful time to visit given the sturdiness of compacted snow, stellar sight of snowcapped mountains in the distance, and breathtaking views of the frozen Falls. (That said, Ink Pots may be a worthy hike to undertake in the spring and fall months from Moose Meadows given the comparatively prominent presence of lush greenery.)
• West Coasters are not kidding when they warn of steep climbs with dramatic elevation. Pre- and post-hike stretching of hamstrings and calves are recommended to prevent injury and aid in recovery.

Read Part 2 HERE !