Out & About #1196 | Ma Lai Goh (Round 5) + Mediterranean Long Weekend Meal

Civic Holiday long weekend commenced with none other than quenching my deep-rooted desires of the dim sum classic of Ma Lai Goh.

1) Ma Lai Goh/馬拉糕 (Round 5)

​With every iteration, minor adjustments are made. These steps sometimes result from forgetfulness, and other times a sense of self-made urgency. Regardless, any deviation from Papa Fung's original recipe furthers understanding regarding the beloved Cantonese creation.

Ingredients:

• 152 g cane slab sugar * roughly 1.5 slab dark + 0.25 slab yellow
• 250 ml water

• 3 eggs

• ​5 g / 1.5 tsp instant yeast
• 20 g warm water​​

• 220 g cake flour
• 30 g custard powder
• pinch of salt

After fermentation​

• 30 g milk powder
• 5 g baking powder
• 1.5 tbsp / 21 g unsalted butter, melted
• 1/2 tbsp lye water * use caution!!
• vanilla extract

​Yield: 1 lofty 8 in x 8 in square cake

Directions

1. Finely chop slab sugar as best as possible. Combine slab sugar and water in a medium saucepot to form the sugar syrup. Gently heat over the stovetop to prevent evaporation. If not possible to chop finely due to density of the slab sugar, cover the saucepot with a lid while warming to prevent loss of liquid. Let cool to at least room temperature, as to not scramble the eggs.
2. Combine yeast and warm water in a small bowl. Mix well and allow to bloom for 10-15 minutes.
3. Sift all dry ingredients into a medium bowl. Set aside.
4. Beat eggs in a large bowl. Slowly stream in sugar syrup and whisk to combine.
5. Add in yeast, then mix well. Add in dry ingredients and whisk gently to combine. Continue mixing until there are no lumps; be careful not to incorporate air or contribute to gluten formation via aggressive whisking.
6. Allow to ferment in a warm place for 1.5h. If the environment is cold, monitor and increase time accordingly until bubbles form in the batter.
7. After fermentation, add vanilla extract, lye water, and unsalted butter. Use caution when handling water, as undiluted amounts are corrosive and can be harmful to health if touched, inhaled, or consumed.
8. Mix well to incorporate. Let rest for 30 minutes. (In this iteration, I forgot to rest the batter.)
9. Line an 8 in x 8 in square pan with parchment paper. Prepare a steamer.
10. Once the water reaches a rolling boil, sieve the batter into the parchment-lined pan and steam for 20-30 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out moist but clean and free of crumbs.
11. Remove from the steamer and let cool slightly. Remove the parchment paper carefully.
12. Serve/slice and enjoy!

Past trials

• Round 1 confirmed that using cake flour is non-negotiable. Swapping for AP flour will result in a stiff, bready result and surrender of 馬拉糕's signature plushness. 
• Round 2 saw the significance of incorporating baking powder after fermentation. While the trial boasted a wondrous texture with plentiful air voids and sizable cavities nearing the surface, it had transitioned to a crumbly base devoid of vertical air pockets.
• Round 3 concluded the need for lye water, primarily for attaining volume, but also to assist with browning. It also informed on the optimal time for consumption (Ma Lai Goh/馬拉糕 is best consumed immediately) and directions for enjoying on subsequent days (microwave for 10 seconds to reinstate plushness on day 2, then 15-25 seconds on the days that follow).
• Round 4 reinforced the need for lye water in addition to cane slab sugar. Although Taiwanese black sugar had introduced robustness and complexity, with the advantage of facilitating formation of sugar syrup due to increased surface area, the substitution had stripped the specimen of its glorious fragrance. Vertical air pockets had been achieved at the base, but only medium air pockets persisted at the centre, as opposed noticeable voids directly under the surface.
• Round 5 (current trial) deduced that excess alkalinity would not be detected in the outcome if there was sufficient acidity to complete the chemical reaction (ie. increased molasses content). By adhering to the specified 0.5 tbsp of lye water and reverting to cane slab sugar, the cross-section was observed to be closest to the textbook Ma Lai Goh, boasting vertical air pockets at its base, large, prominent voids near the surface, a spectacular golden hue, and irresistible springiness.

Comparing sugar syrup amounts to prior experiments, there was undeniably more liquid retained by covering the saucepot with a lid.
Round 5 (current trial) yielded 355 g of sugar syrup, while Round 3 - 287 g (did not chop cane sugar) and Round 4 - 399 g (black sugar, thus shorter simmering time). A damp patch was witnessed at the very centre of the square, alluding to slight excess of moisture.

Takeaways:

• Cake flour, cane slab sugar, and lye water are non-negotiable ingredients.
• Strive to use dark cane slab sugar wherever possible, as sufficient molasses is required to react with the lye water.
• While this item is not addressed by Papa Fung, my results suggest the ideal quantity of sugar syrup to fall within the range of 325 - 330 g by weight, assuming consistent use of other liquid ingredients (ie, 1/2 tbsp lye water, vanilla extract, and melted butter).
• Ensure baking powder is added after fermentation, not before.

2) Seared Pork Loin w/ Raspberry Relish

Seven items in four hours was a substantial amount, even for me. But what are long weekends for, if not indulging in experimentation (and wrist fatigue)?​

Similar to my last encounter with pork loin, a brine was prepared using salt (of course), a dash of white pepper, Shaoxing wine, and mirin. Four hefty rounds of pork loin, each approximating 1 inch in thickness, were partially immersed in the solution for about 3.5 h. I reckon that a larger amount of cooking wine should have been used to enable complete immersion, for the sections appeared to have absorbed a significant of the liquid. Alternatively, the rounds should have been arranged in a flat dish to improve surface area contact, contrary to being placed upright in a mixing bowl.

​The process was identical to the previous iteration, wherein small amount of oil was added to the pan and both sides were seared until a nice, smoky char was achieved. Upon flipping the rounds though, it dawned on me that the rounds were contracting. The meat was toughening before my very eyes - just like bread rolls with gluten that hadn't adequately relaxed before shaping. The tendency to tighten was also evident in the amount of bloody juices running out after searing. Despite the rest time on the rack, there were barely any maroon-tinted drippings - an indication that the meat had failed to retain its juices.

Considering these responses, I wasn't entirely surprised when the final product was found dense.

Similar to before, any fond remaining in the pan was combined with unsalted butter and used to sautée the aromatics. Four whole smashed cloves of garlic and sweet onion slices (about 1.5 small onions) were cooked until light scorched along the perimeter. Marsala was used to deglaze the pan - a magnificent choice, might I add! - followed by homemade raspberry jam to bind and add tartness. In review of the consistency after cooking, it occurred to me that more oil should have been added after searing the meat to improve fluidity.

​Given their thickness, it was essential to exercise caution with regard to food safety. Each round reached an internal temperature of at least 125 F before there was enough confidence to remove them from the pan. They were nestled into the pan sauce and allowed to continue cooking until reaching the required temperature.

Albeit less juicy than before, the pork loin exhibited a stunning, crisp exterior and paired fantastically with the Marsala-raspberry pan sauce-turned-relish. Nonetheless scrumptious, the meat was enjoyed with fresh romaine hearts, fusilli, and oven-roasted carrots.

3) Miso Molasses Oven Roasted Carrots

The concept of this side dish originated from Edward Lee's Bourbon-Ginger-Glazed Carrots, on pg. 215 of his 2013 recipe/story book, "Smokes & Pickles". As written, he combines warm flavours of ginger, bourbon, brown sugar, black pepper, and orange juice for a hint of brightness to emphasize the sweetness of baby carrots. Taking a page out of his book, in the most literal sense possible, I proceeded to derive inspiration for my own savoury dish, as well as a soon-to-be-revealed spinoff. A fellow food enthusiast's introduction of Susan Bae's Hoisin Cinnamon Swirl Banana Bread also informed inclusion of the Chinese pantry staple.

Approximate ingredient quantities are as follows:

• 2.5 lbs carrots, cut into rectangular slices
• 1/4 cup white miso * feel free to reduce; can be too intense if eating as a standalone dish
• 3 tbsp Hoisin sauce
• 40 g molasses
• golden yellow sugar
• salt
• canola oil

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375 F.
2. Chop the carrots into rectangular slices. Cut each carrot into segments. Rotate such that each cylindrical segment is upright, then make 3-4 cuts. Although atypical, the configuration exposes maximum exposure to the core, encouraging uniform doneness.
3. Combine carrots with seasonings, ensuring even distribution.
4. Bake/roast at 375 F for 35-40 mins, or until the edges reveal charring and the marinade has caramelized.
5. Serve and enjoy!

​Intensely sweet and savoury, the combination of white miso, sweet carrots, and Hoisin sauce attribute to an irresistible side brimming with umami. A tad overwhelming to consume on its own, it is recommended to serve the carrots atop rice or pasta and in conjunction with a milder accompaniment.

4) Tri-Colour Fusilli with Shrimp + San Marzano Tomato Sauce

It may sound unbelievable that the entrée was, in fact, a pantry meal in its entirety. The founding elements of fusilli and San Marzano tomatoes were sourced from the Costco Business Centre, while the shrimp from frozen skewers and herbs long forgotten in the cupboard.

Prepwork was facilitated through use of a 2.84 L can of La San Marzano Whole Peeled Tomato with basil leaf (though there was absolutely no hint of basil whatsoever) and deveined shrimp skewers. The base of the sauce commenced with onions and sliced garlic slowly cooked in olive oil and salted butter. In the meantime, the shrimp were removed from their skewers and seasoned with salt and seasoned salt (aka pre-mixed salt and pepper). Both were removed from the pot before adding the tomato sauce and simmering with bay leaf, sage, parsley, and dried sun-dried tomatoes. The shrimp and caramelized onion-garlic were reinstated to the pot just before serving, as to prevent overcooking the rapidly curling shrimp.

Should I revisit the recipe, the herbs would first be infused in hot oil to unleash their aromas, for the resulting sauce was quite bland and watery. Thankfully, the Miso Molasses Oven Roasted Carrot compensated in complexity.

5) Wasabi Mayo Egg Salad
with expired wasabi, rice wine vinegar, and golden, runny yolks that made for a watery mess and off-putting consistency.

6) Tzatziki Sauce

An impromptu but exceptionally delicious combination of:

• 1/2 English cucumber, diced and with core removed
• 1.5 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 100 g sour cream
• 1/2 tsp lemon juice
• pinch of salt

7) Green Tea Nama Chocolate

Green Tea Nama Chocolate, regrettably, did not see the same success as the earlier batch using Surfin. Callebaut's white chocolate callets tasted excessively buttery, as if I had replaced half of the chocolate with butter. In addition, the chocolate did not set completely even after chilling overnight.

Ingredients are as follows:

• 160 g white chocolate callets (Callebaut)
• 160 g heavy cream
• 21 g unsalted butter
• 10 g green tea powder (Ten Ren)

Given that the output leaves much to be desired in all regards, I shall not be hesitating to revert to my tried-and-true Lindt varieties next time around. In particular, I am curious to undertake the experiment once more using Lindt Blancor in place of Callebaut W2. Although both are advertised to contain identical percentages of milk solids, W2 contains 28% cocoa solids compared to Blancor's 36%. The malleable consistency was likely caused by this staggering difference in proportions.

​Stats in summary

​Blancor

• 36% cocoa, 40% fat, 22% milk

​​Callebaut

• 28% cocoa, 35.8% fat, 22% milk

In hindsight, I ought to have halted coating in green tea powder at the sight of the consistency, instead reserving the slab for use in a whipped ganache. The buttery qualities would have fared excellently in a faux buttercream application.