Out & About #1171 | Cafe La_On, AGO + Korea House

Prior to commencing my downtown life once again, I was required to make one trip in advance for administrative procedures. Originally, I planned for Monday to take advantage of lower commuter volumes, however decided to make the most of the day and align the visit with other attractions of interest.

A breakfast of concentrated cold brew and a Pineapple BBQ Pork Bun from Akko later, I was on my way towards the GO station.

​The train was delayed, and having downed coffee about one hour ago, I quickly became desperate for a bathroom. Two gender-separated stalls reside within the transit building connecting the rail and bus platforms, however there was insufficient time to travel through the corridor and back.

​When I could wait no longer, I resorted to the in-train facilities. Much to my shock, the GO train bathroom was surprisingly clean! Not only was it spacious and stocked with water and soap, there was no grime nor graffiti in sight! The only element missing was a bag hook. The scene was relieving, and made the NS train bathroom an absolute abomination in comparison.

​UNIQLO was browsed briefly; the popular apparel retailer had taken over Decathlon's former space between the Bay Concourse and TTC terminal. 

The main task only assumed fifteen minutes, so I made the most of my One Fare transfer and headed to St. Patrick. It was 10 AM when my footsteps met the doors of the AGO. Unfortunately, the gallery was yet to open until 10:30 AM, and I was sternly scolded by security.

​In light of this unexpected turnout, my schedule was reconfigured to include a café stopover first. I had bookmarked Cafe La_On for visiting after the gallery, but its 10 AM opening time enabled the ideal itinerary swap.

​Basque Cheesecake and Ball Tiramisu appeared to constitute their signature offerings. Neat little squares of Terrine were also observed in the display case. My final decision lay with an Earl Grey Tigre though, for the oval-shaped pastry has recently been making appearances in cafés throughout the city.

The drink pairing boiled down to Grey It Coffee, described as a House Cold Brew with Earl Grey Cream, and OC, Milky Oolong Tea with a shot of cold brew. Although the cashier/barista struggled to describe the individual profiles, notably milkier and sweeter attributes were associated with the former. I desired not a latte, thus took a leap of faith in requesting the summer-exclusive OC.

​​The Earl Grey Tigre set me back $4.50, while the OC a whopping $7.00. As part of the café's weekday incentives, visiting on a Tuesday entailed a 10% off discount when purchasing two items. The fine print implied that the discount would only apply to the item of lesser value, but an overall 10% off discount was applied to my bill. Following tax and tip, my La_On stay totalled $13.70.

Settling into a well-illuminated nook towards the Dundas frontage of the shop, I heaved a deep sigh. The leisurely, relaxed atmosphere and tranquil coffee shop environment was a firm nod towards the cafe-hopping adventures forming the week past - an extension of vacation, in essence!

​My order was presented on a rimmed aluminum tray, with the Tigre merely arranged without any underlying parchment and a single fork to delineate the pastry and beverage. It was an amusing display, and one that simultaneously facilitated transport.

​The Tigre was, admittedly, difficult to eat. Despite the promising visuals, the creation did not offer clear distinction between the coarse sugar-crusted rim, ganache, and nutty cake base. It was incredibly rigid without much flavour payoff, leading me to conclude, with surprise, that Innisfree's variations were superior. While the Jeju House Tigre set had been dense as well, they were comparatively flavourful, with unmistakable texture differences between the cake and creamy ganache.

​OC, in stark contrast, was tremendously enjoyable and wholly exceeded expectations! The layered concoction comprised of Oolong tea with the prominent inclusion of cold brew and an invigorating, citrusy accent by way of dehydrated orange slice. Recognizing its introduction to the menu as a warm weather exclusive, the combination of a fruity tea base with a subtle boost of caffeine was innovative, refreshing, and magnificent even with a lingering briskness in the air.

​A single bathroom stall was located at the rear of the café, behind several wooden tables integrated into a dusky ambience. It appeared unfinished with rough coats of paint on the back of the door. Bag hooks were absent, thus I took to using the drawers under the sink. Both drawers revealed paint splatters within. The top drawer had an open bottle of paint as well, with no cap in its proximity. It is worth noting that the toilet did not flush well and the facilities were average in terms of cleanliness.

Spurring the Tuesday visit was, actually, the availability of TPL Map passes to the AGO. Opportunities for a weekday visit without time constraints were rare to come by, but little did I know that my 11 AM entry would coincide with two corporate events and a multitude of elementary and high school field trips.

Since returning from Amsterdam, a newfound appreciation for museums has been established. The gratitude encompasses not only the exhibits within a museum and its curation, but also the manner in which one navigates through the various installations, learning and reflecting throughout the process.

​The AGO's countless collections spanned an immersive Yayoi Kusama installation, wherein visitors were permitted one minute to admire the room. Although the single room could not possibly compare to the extensive lineup showcased in 2018's Infinity Mirrors, it was intriguing nonetheless. Naturally, I ranked it far above the likes of the lonesome framed Pumpkin witnessed at the MOCO Museum.

On the same floor as Yayoi Kusama was an artistically curated exhibit, titled Oluseye: Orí mi pé, highlighting the origins and customs of African heritage, fittingly set with dramatic lighting choices and even a dark room with a bronze centrepiece and projection footage.

​My complimentary ticket enabled access to all exhibits during the gallery's operating hours, and further permitted in-and-out access should I wish to escape for lunch and return. Given that I did not intend to dine in the area, I swiftly proceeded through as many rooms and floors as possible before hunger became insuppressible. 

​For the first time ever, I was able to wander through the striking corridors home to various pieces by the Group of Seven. Its status as a fixed exhibit had caused me to prioritize other floors when visiting during lunch and Free AGO Nights. Despite the rowdiness of elementary school children in the proximity, the visit was still enjoyable. Regrettably, encounters with ignorant, entitled high school students were decidedly less so.

​Ranbir Sidhu's No Limits installation occupied the former space home to KAWS.

While compact in artwork count, the pieces were extremely grand. Carefully constructed with precision, there were details worth commending at every angle and height.

It would be an understatement to say that I was merely amazed at Asteroid 3033 X1. With the exhibit running until January of next year, I hope to have the chance to lay eyes on the intricate invention once more.

​The fifth level was dedicated to a film photography by Paul McCartney. Most, if not all, of these images were portrait. Arranged by timeline, the first half primarily comprised of black-and-white film. Later periods of his career were depicted in colour and also video.

Truthfully, I was largely uninterested in the exhibit, considering my lack of knowledge for The Beatles. That said, I was perhaps amongst the few with these remarks, for the installation attracted an impressive number of seniors. A standalone merchandise area was also positioned at the end of the exhibit corridor.

Returning to Level 1 after escaping the ear-rupturing hoards of school children, it was finally time to cover the remaining exhibits. Following return from the land of the Dutch, the one-room Rembrandt display was nominally disappointing. Similar commentary could be extended to the galleries fitted with a handful of Impressionist paintings and glass cases of Christian sculptures. The Rijksmuseum had flaunted far lavish of an assortment of European artwork, unsurprisingly.

​It wasn't until exploring the corridors of framed paintings - without protruding edges, mind you - that I was instructed - rather rudely, might I add, to wear my backpack on the front of my body. Although the request wasn't unlike the Rijksmuseum, the tone of the exchange varied vastly to the "Excuse me, miss, could you please...".

Between 11 AM - 1 PM, I succeeded in covering majority of the AGO. When my ravenous appetite could be stifled no longer and my mind could intake no further new info, it was deemed appropriate to depart. I believe only the basement level remains unroamed at this point, but I reckon it could be covered in an upcoming Free AGO Night.

As I retraced my steps towards St. Patrick, my gaze drifted towards the new mixed-use complex at Dundas and McCaul. Besides fresh concrete and the addition of a north side Bike Share station (yes!), bold green lettering made known the presence of an Innisfree and Matcha Matcha collaboration space.

The format resembled a pop-up space, with a minimalist bar area for steeply-priced matcha beverages and a meager selection of Jeju-themed pastries. I did not linger long enough to request details on pricing; the mediocre Hallasan cake adorning the menu did not prompt the gesture either.

​With great swiftness, I navigated towards my long-awaited lunch destination: Korea House.

Nearly six years ago, we were blessed with the delectable Jjajangmyeon from the locally operated casual eatery. Eager to relive that experience, I rummaged through the archives until I could confirm the restaurant name.

​The interior was exactly as I recalled: overwhelmed with colour and fake fruit. The walls were splashed with sauce, chairs dilapidated, and menu grimy and battered. These elements were synonymous with post-drinking meal spots or student favourites, for the no-frills, unkept environment ensured late hours and budget-friendly finds.

I took to No. 13 Jjajangmyeon without a shred of hesitation. Being the only patron on the premises at 1:30 PM, my meal arrived in about ten minutes. Four banchan and a pair of scissors tightly wrapped in a paper napkin were arranged onto the same tray. Kimchi, danmuji, cabbage slaw, and boiled marinated potatoes were graciously provided. Pickled yellow radish is a staple when consuming jjajangmyeon, so it was refreshing to see that the condiment had been included free of charge (unlike some places). The kimchi was as fiery as ever, thus required neutralizing with the creamy cabbage and soft potatoes.

​Topped with finely-sliced cucumber and a sprinkle of sesame seeds, the Jjajangmyeon was as scrumptious as ever! Although a tad tackier and saltier than recalled, the bits of coarse meat and tender onions woven through the sauce were divine. Gratifying as could be, I excitedly reached for the next strand of noodle until my stomach could fit no more. Leftovers were requested to go, with neither the takeout container nor plastic bag incurring extra fees.

​Payment was settled in cash, for it unlocked a 10% off discount. I then descended down to the basement, where the washrooms were located. The stairwell was rickety and eerie to start, but the graffiti-style markings of "M" and "W" sprayed along the wall furthered a sense of wariness. Unsettling was the scene before me.

Needless to say, the stalls weren't particularly pristine. A ring of mould could be seen along the base of the toilet and around the sink. The door was scuffed and partially held together with duct tape, then painted over in pink. Indeed, the indoor plumbing facilities reflected the overall aura of the restaurant. Notwithstanding my observations, I shall gladly return for Korea House's Jjajangmyeon - just not when donning my best attire.

​I then roamed the neighbourhood to alleviate feelings of fullness.

Throughout the short-lived trek, I confirmed the presence of three (soon to be four!) photobooth spots:

• Life4Cuts on the upper level of a renovated hanji
• Photo Signature with 3 Classic Frame booths, 1 High Angle booth, and the most impressive selection of props witnessed to date
• Hama Film occupying a second floor unit a few blocks west of Photo Signature

• photoism soon to arrive in a shared space with Isabella's Mochi Donuts

The trip concluded with a mandatory stopover at Hodo Kwaja and a bathroom visit-spurred detour to Tobbi Cafe. A bag of ground coffee was procured for phin usage on an utterly impromptu basis.

​My default Hodo Kwaja order consists of a 30-count box of walnut cakes. On this excursion, I also obtained a three-pack of buttery, delectable Madeleines, a concoction that never fails to deliver contentment. It is astounding that the trio is priced at just $2.50 - half of what most cafés charge for a single madeleine!

​I also caught the tail end of Chun Byung production, leading to acquisition of almond- and seaweed-specked biscuits.

Fresh Hodo Kwaja is always a good idea.