Out & About #1127 | Four Pies in Four Hours: Apple Crisp (Again), Pecan Pie, and Pumpkin Sesame Pie

Really, what was I thinking to do several pies in the span of several hours? It was doable, of course, but exhausting when the activity was sandwiched between back-to-back events all weekend.

1) Apple Crisp with Pie Crust Bottom (Again)

My browsing partner had requested a second iteration of my Apple Crisp, thus prompting the orchard stopover of the previous day. Admittedly, I was quite apple-d out, but agreed anyway since I had one too-thin crust chilling - in the most literal sense - in the freezer anyway.

This creation needs no explanation, for its composition is practically identical to the version compiled the previous weekend.
The sole differences lay with the species of apple used and the filling quantities being somewhat scaled for repeatability.

Jonagold from Williams' Orchard

Ingredients:

• 413 g apple (2 Jonagold + 2 Cortland)
• 27 g lemon juice
• 25 g granulated sugar 
• 40 g brown sugar
• Cornstarch

Cortland from Williams' Orchard

Notes

• Learning from my first trial, the amount of apple was increased from 706/2 = 353 g to 413 g. This was a 17% increase in apple filling, which made up for the slight hollowness last time around. It was also just the quantity of apple that would be fully covered by the crumble layer.
• As opposed to the late season Ginger Gold and juicy Rave, I used farm fresh, in-season Cortland and Jonagold. The white-fleshed Cortland was sturdy and aromatic, with exceptionally mild apple flavours. Meanwhile, Jonagold was sweeter and juicier, being yellow-fleshed. The duo made for apple chunks that retained their shape after baking. Due to their relatively mild properties though, the presence of warm spices was accentuated; the signature apple-y qualities weren't particularly prominent.
• About two teaspoons of cornstarch were added initially. After observing the aftereffects of macerating, I added one more teaspoon of cornstarch and mixed well. This served as insurance such that the juices would coagulate once baked.
• Surely enough, results were consistent with the previous iteration. The surface was golden, the juices bubbling from underneath, and the overall concoction aromatic and enticing. 
• Served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, my dessert was an unexpected hit at the Thanksgiving dinner! Consistent with feedback received, the crisp could have spent a few more minutes in the toaster oven to attain optimal temperature. Despite being warm, it wasn't toasty enough to encourage instantaneous dissolution of the vanilla ice cream scoop placed on top. This was, perhaps, the sole regret in the manner in which it was served. Nevertheless, the dessert was met with anticipation and enjoyment - sensations that fuel my sense of accomplishment. Within a matter of minutes, all slices have been portioned and devoured, much to my shock.

2) Pie Crust

For the first time since attempting pie crust, I took to the food processor to facilitate preparation of a double batch. I had learned the hard way that such a portion was tragic to prepare manually, thus prepared cubed butter for blitzing. While cutting the block on a cutting board was easier than ripping off chunks with the block in one hand, it undoubtedly softened the butter in the process due to increased handling.

I also wished I had watched Claire Saffitz's Apple Cheddar Pie in advance of preparing the crust. Despite having no qualms whatsoever about SK's pie crust recipe, I made several mistakes when using the high power apparatus

​For starters, it was ill-advised to pulse the butter into a fine crumb, for this eliminates the pockets of butter in the dough that contribute to flakiness. It also increased surface area significantly, meaning that any water streamed into the dough would be processed very quickly, thus forming gluten. I should have also been more wary about the amount of water streamed into the dough, as any mixing action happens at a rapid pace.

Surely enough, a tacky dough ball had formed before I knew it.

A double batch made for 1123 g of dough, which was equally distributed across four foil pie plates:
​1123/4 = 280 g per pie.

The increase in gluten rendered the discs extremely easy to roll out. That said, I required significantly more flour on the surface to prevent sticking. Crimping the edges was exceptionally easy in the foil plates, for the flat edge assisted in keeping its shape. (Recall: most of my crusts slide down in my signature glass pie dish.)

3) Pecan Pie

Again, this one needs no introduction.

The filling was derived from the same ol', trusty SK formula. Ingredient amounts were merely doubled for two pies and, if I was truly nitpicky, the brand of apple cider vinegar was swapped from Heinz to Great Value, purely based on availability.

​Overwhelming praise was received across the board, whether it be at home, amongst friends, or in the office. Although I hadn't felt too great about the food processor pie crust, I was assured time and time again that it was enjoyable and definitely flaky. My personal gripes about the gaping void and lack of butter chunks were not as apparent to those that hadn't sample previous years' iterations.

The custard was also well received. Most had never tasted homemade pecan pie, thus was delightfully surprised to discover a custard tinged with the aroma of toasted pecans, rather than the "extremely smooth, super sweet paste" offered by store-bought renditions. I received two comments regarding sweetness level: one admitted that the custard exceeded her preferred sweetness level, but only by the teensiest bit, while another noted that a heavier pinch of salt would be a welcome addition. Frankly, I agreed; indeed, I had proceeded cautiously with table salt in fear of overdoing the sodium levels.

In any case, this year's Pecan Pie was still delicious, but simply not the flawless one envisioned. Consequently, it is not unlikely that I will be undertaking a second round in order to taste the pecan pie of my dreams.

4) Pumpkin and Black Sesame Swirl Pie

For the last disc of subpar pie dough, I turned towards my kabocha.
​But then I paused: Do I even like pumpkin pie? Do I want to eat so much of it?

My Kabocha Tart had been tasty, but this year's yield was unmistakably blander than the 2023 edition. Could I incorporate another flavour? And so I did.
The theory was that: If Sunday's Black Sesame & Pumpkin Pound Cake had been so nutty and scrumptious, I could surely introduce a similar spin to the classic pumpkin pie!

SK's pie crust would serve as the base. The filling was adapted from Sunday's Pumpkin Tart recipe, circa 2016. Instead of E.D. Smith's fishy-smelling canned pumpkin though, I swapped in (unseasoned) oven roasted kabocha.

Ingredients:

• 320 g mashed kabocha

• 2 eggs
• 135 g sweetened condensed milk
• 75 g honey
• cinnamon
• nutmeg​

• 57 g black sesame paste
• approx 1/3 cup milk

​Directions:

1. Prepare kabocha by baking the entire vegetable at 350 F for 40-50 mins. Let cool slightly, then remove skin and cut into chunks. Remove seeds and stringy fibres as needed. Transfer to a medium bowl.
2. Using a potato masher, form a kabocha purée, striving to get the paste as smooth as possible. Set aside.
3. In a large bowl, combine eggs, sugars, and spices. It should be noted that Sunday's original recipe calls for sweetened condensed milk only, however I had to make do with another liquid sweetener when my inventory was depleted. Corn syrup and molasses were not selected as substitutes due to their chemical properties (acting as a coagulant) and strong undertones, respectively.
4. Divide the aerated egg mixture in a 1:4 ratio. Mix one quarter of the mixture with unsweetened black sesame paste and milk. Mix the remainder with the mashed kabocha.
5. Blind bake the pie crust at 350 F for 15-20 mins. I recommend baking for at least 20 minutes, as mine did not achieve the desired degree of browning within 15 minutes.
6. Bake 350F for 45-50 mins, until the surface is golden with faint cracks.
7. Let cool. Serve and enjoy!

Without a doubt, the pairing of kabocha and black sesame was an innovative choice for Thanksgiving. I hadn't seen the combo circulate the web previously (though was later proven wrong), and was keen to sample the swirled custard. By keeping a watchful eye on the pie, the custard baked fully without splitting. A toothpick came out relatively clean, with only mild dampness from the centre. My only gripe was the pasty-looking exterior.

The pie could be sampled at room temperature or reheated. At room temp, black sesame took centre stage. Its cross-section revealed a silky custard with black sesame concentrated at the centre, alluding to a toasty bitterness, and bits of sweet kabocha when nearing the edge. After reheating, gustatory emphasis shifted towards the kabocha, which instilled a sense of comfort by its luxurious mouthfeel and moderate inclusion of warm spices. Although the kabocha purée hadn't been completely free of lumps, the texture of the custard was not impacted whatsoever.
As expected, the edge was paler than desired, however interestingly did not compromise on structure or tenderness. Compared to the aluminum pie plates, a longer baking time was required to achieve the same splendid gold hue as the pecan pie crusts had.

Pie Takeaways:

• Pie crust can indeed be crafted in a food processor, however one should take care to prevent excessive pulsing as all processes are executed rapidly. Pulse flour and butter until large chunks remain, then stream in water while pulsing (not mixing). Alternatively, transfer blended flour-butter mixture to a work surface or bowl and finish the dough by hand. When using a pastry blender, one should "cut" the butter until pea-sized pieces remain. When using a food processor, the butter should be "cut" no finer than strips of stir-fried beef - or cheese curds, for better colour reference.
• Custard for pumpkin pie should not be overbaked, as it can induce cracking.
• Aluminum foil plates indeed conduct heat better than glass, in addition to being thinner. When par-baking, 15 minutes at 350 F is sufficient for aluminum, however the bake time should be increased to at least 20 minutes for glass.
• Aluminum foil plates are also superior in preserving the shape of the pie crust edges (ie. crimping, fluting, etc.). Owed to the lip around the edge, the dough clings to the rim instead of sliding down the sides during par-baking. With regard to both bake time and resulting appearance, the foil plates provided a tremendous advantage over my go-to vintage Pyrex.

​I rushed dishes and a compact pilates workout, then set out to attend my browsing partner's Thanksgiving dinner with my Apple Crisp in tow.

​The beverage lineup spanned two varieties of red wine, Pumpkin Spice Fruit Wine from Andrews Farm (again sponsored by me), and Apple Cider from Williams' Orchard. Comprehensively spiced it was, yet refreshing it persisted. Priced at $13 for 4L, the concoction was well justified and fitting for the celebratory occasion.

​I indulged in the spread to my heart's desire, professing satiation after being presented with a hefty slice of roast beef.

Little had I known that the dessert assortment would boast similar degrees of diversity. Sugar cookies bearing the Chinese character for prosperity immediately caught my attention. Next was a beautifully decorated Strawberry Shortcake. Chinese almond cookies, glutinous rice cakes from Japan, and fusion mooncakes from Macao had also been brought for sharing. Although the mention of a lava coffee caramel mooncake was intriguing, I was far too full after consuming cake and a decent-sized serving of my own Apple Crisp.

​What a joyous celebration it was!