Out & About #1090 | Mugwort White Chocolate Cookies, AGM Again + Ma Lai Goh (Round 2)

There's no one that convince me that the Mugwort x White Chocolate combination isn't meant to me. Having experienced tempering hiccups in my last attempt at the pairing, I decided to undergo a second experiment.

Mugwort White Chocolate Chip Cookies

Sunday Baking's Levain cookie base has resulted in the best result thus far, so I adhered to the formula as a guideline for adaptation.

The modified ingredient list is as follows:

• 120 g unsalted butter
• 60 g brown sugar
• 50 g granulated sugar
• 1 egg
•  ̶1̶5̶0̶ ̶g̶ ̶A̶P̶ ̶f̶l̶o̶u̶r̶ → 125 g AP flour + 25 g mugwort
• 5 g cornstarch
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1/4 tsp baking soda
• pinch of salt
• vanilla extract
•  ̶1̶2̶0̶ → 150 g chopped white chocolate, plus more to top

Yield: 18 cookies, using 1.5 tbsp cookie scoop

At first glance, I noted three glaring issues:

1. Proportion: The white chocolate had been chopped too fine, actively infusing into the dough as the cookie baked. Larger chunks (greater than 1 cm) would contribute gustatory interest in terms of texture and flavour without compromising overall harmony. It had been a good decision to include the whole couverture piece on top.
2. Flour: There wasn't enough flour, causing the bottoms of the cookies to ooze grease within the first three hours of being removed from the oven. Mugwort did not offer the same stabilizing power as flour, thus a 1:1 swap is not recommended. The cookies emerged thinner and flatter than boasting the signature Levain height and substantiality. I also reckon that I could add a hint more baking powder, or let the dough rest briefly to control spread and improve rise.
3. Temperature: The oven temperature was either too low, causing the cookies to spread more readily, or too hot, causing the chocolate centre to crack before the rest of the dough baked through. Admittedly, this concern is unrelated to the procedure itself and lies with the fault of my finnicky oven (that is due for replacement at any time now).

​Once the cookies had cooled though, they were extremely enjoyable. The greasiness on the undersides had dissipated, leaving behind a delectable morsel that quenched one's appetite for cookies.

I had been absolutely correct about the mugwort-white chocolate pairing, as the sweetness of the white chocolate offset the intense earthiness of mugwort, while retaining its complex, slightly bitter properties. Those appreciative of matcha could likely take a liking to mugwort as well. That said, for the purposes of serving the masses, I was fully aware that mugwort is an uncommon ingredient and a wholly acquired taste.

​With the member of upper management out of office for one week (Why couldn't it be longer??), I found myself finally being able to breathe - not knowing I had been holding my breath this whole time. Besides being able to use the bathroom freely, being freed of traumatic call sounds, and being able to gain a sense of peace for critical thinking, I could also resume my regular work-from-home activities, such as crafting iced beverages as afternoon pick-me-ups. Oolong tea and lemonade may not have been the best combo though.
Albeit a condensed period of relief, my sanity desperately needed it.

​In the evening hours, I took to an order of Chicken Souvlaki with side orders of pita and tzatziki sauce from Souvlaki Hut. Given that I had forgotten to cancel my Uber One renewal anyways, I decided to take advantage of the opportunity.

While the chicken was juicy and flavourful, the portion was impossibly meager. The quartered pita slices were passable, though the tacky, starch-thickened tzatziki was a sheer abomination. Devoid of both cucumber bits and minced garlic, it wasn't difficult to identify the satiating formula as being synthetic.

​My first in-office day saw temperatures in the low twenties, which was undoubtedly steamier than desired.
I had originally joined another team in their steady trek to the mall food court, but quickly grew impatient. Their pace was all too lethargic and undeniably stifling, especially in the gruesome heat. As they shuffled from The Food District to the food court then indecisively split up, I could withstand the sluggishness no more and parted ways. After all, I was not one to waste time with errands on the line.

Google Maps had indicated the One City Centre Drive commercial high-rise to be just eighteen minutes of a walk. At the pace of my coworkers, we hadn't managed to cross the mall in even thirty minutes! I sped the rest of the way solo, chancing across beautiful blossoms in the form of dainty, pink clusters.

​The bank stopover led the discovery of a clean, bright public washroom - far superior than the revolting likes of Square One. The mall-facing exterior of the building also offered a small green space for shade and lounging. Regrettably, cigarette fumes filled the air instead of giddy conversation and appreciation for one of the few open spaces in the city centre area.

​In the afternoon hours, I escaped to obtain a Pineapple Dragon Fruit Sparkling Quencher from Tim Hortons. This had been the incorrect input, for the Lemonade was the beverage I had desired.

Depressing office treats of leftover La Rocca, packaged snacks, and tangerines were spotted in the kitchen upon my return. I had wondered about the lengthy description accompanying birthday celebrations taking place earlier; the reveal of La Rocca concluded the abominable taste of suburban office workers. Perhaps I shall never come to terms with these standards, for the Toronto teams had never failed to share the best local finds, whether they be baklava from Scarborough, croissants from Bartholomew, or homemade sourdough loaves and Greek watermelon-mint-feta salad.

I don't think anyone in the new office thinks twice when a fresh batch of baked goods make their way to the office. It would be natural to think that, with the sudden increase in complimentary homemade products, deductions would lie with the newest member of the team. But no.
Surprised responses upon realizing that the treats were homemade - is it really such a rarity?! - but primarily from female colleagues. The visible majority persistently reveal entitlement, with a select few that have been blacklisted from distribution due to previous comments. Some have proven to be quite open-minded to goods beyond the basic, though these members are either members of a visible minority or those that often work alongside the visible minorities. Although I never believed "unconscious bias" to be a true concept, working in a suburban environment has proved me wrong. Some communities simply haven't embraced multiculturalism and inclusivity as they ought to have, at least ten years ago.

One of my former coworkers pointed out that there were a few "small wins". I didn't disagree, though I wished I wasn't entering through the doors of the office bracing for negative discoveries each time.
Besides a noticeably improved commute, I've managed to find joy in a few faces:

• A coworker who knows of GOT7 and even attended their 2018 Eyes on You concert
• A friendly member of another team who noticed my presence in the office, but never had the opportunity to start up a conversation
• A friendly member of another team who admitted to not enjoying mugwort, but depleted the entire cookie out of respect

Unfortunately, not a single of these affirmative finds are associated with my own team. Drowning my woes in sake, I couldn't agree more. Life goes on.

The weekly Lions Farmers' Market was an event that I had anticipated greatly. Much to my dismay, there were just three stalls arranged along the outer perimeter of Celebration Square come Wednesday.

Besides produce, cheese, and honey, there was little to spur interest (or purchasing intent).

Searing external conditions prompted me to head into the Civic Centre for air conditioning. I took advantage of the opportunity to visit the Art Gallery of Mississauga once more.

The latest exhibit was named "My Mother's Tongue" and paid tribute to the language and history. Pieces near the front were eerie yet contemplative, both referencing past incidents in Indigenous history.

Traversing underneath the suspended grid of heads was permitted. In the back rooms were a mini auditorium showcasing a black-and-white reel on Black culture (think AGO-style) and an open gallery with an interactive, carpeted piece complete with speakers for auditory engagement.

Seeing as my unpaid allotment was not yet over, I headed towards the gym to accrue steps. The facility was positively bustling during lunch hour, with the stench of sweat being undeniable. Middle-aged men banging weights was also a frequent sighting. I spent a decent amount of time on the elliptical before transitioning to the treadmills for slow walking as they became available.

​Let it be known that the cramped, poorly ventilated space was hardly enjoyable in the presence of others' body heat and awful BO.

​Concluding my blistering day in the office, I swooped by CoCo to take advantage of their TOTM special. The M City location has proven exceptional as of late, successfully producing drinks at the perfect sweetness level, providing plastic cups and straws (and sometimes bags free of charge!), and even accommodating swaps that would otherwise be denied at other locations.

My Bubble Gaga was refreshing, abundantly fruity, and filled with Coconut Jelly and Crystal Pearls, as opposed to regular tapioca.

Ma Lai Goh / 馬拉糕 (Round 2)​

Since I've never been one to admit defeat, redemption for the failed Ma Lai Goh was scheduled at the next possible opportunity. With cake flour on hand, I was ready to undertake a follow-up trial for the sake of troubleshooting one of my all-time favourite dimsum dishes.

My adjustments from the previous iteration were as follows:

• Using a combined 150 g of yellow slab sugar, yellow rock sugar, and Taiwanese black sugar as opposed to the 100 g of dark cane slab sugar → improved colour and depth
• Adding baking powder + milk powder to the batter before fermentation
• Using a square nonstick pan instead of a tapered, round aluminum pan → more rise in the centre
• Using cake flour instead of AP flour → attained a sievable consistency
• Using a fermentation time of 2.75 h instead of 1.5 h
  

Ingredients:

• 151 g sugar (yellow slab, yellow rock, and Taiwanese black) * roughly 50% yellow + 50% black
• 250 ml water

• 3 eggs

• ​5 g / 1.5 tsp instant yeast
• 20 g warm water​

• 220 g cake flour
• 30 g custard powder
• pinch of salt
• 30 g milk powder
• 5 g baking powder

After fermentation​

• ​​ ̶3̶0̶ ̶g̶ ̶m̶i̶l̶k̶ ̶p̶o̶w̶d̶e̶r̶
•  ̶5̶ ̶g̶ ̶b̶a̶k̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶p̶o̶w̶d̶e̶r̶
• 1.5 tbsp / 21 g unsalted butter, melted
• 1/2 tbsp lye water * use caution!!
• vanilla extract

​Yield: 1 lofty 8 in x 8 in square cake

Directions

1. Make the sugar syrup on the stovetop. Let cool to at least room temperature, as to not scramble the eggs.
2. Combine yeast and warm water in a small bowl. Mix well and allow to bloom for 10-15 minutes.
3. Sift all dry ingredients into a medium bowl. Set aside.
4. Beat eggs in a large bowl. Slowly stream in sugar syrup and whisk to combine.
5. Add in yeast, then mix well. Add in dry ingredients and whisk gently to combine. Continue mixing until there are no lumps; be careful not to incorporate air or contribute to gluten formation via aggressive whisking.
6. Allow to ferment in a warm place for 1.5h. If the environment is cold, monitor and increase time accordingly until bubbles form in the batter.
7. After fermentation, add vanilla extract, lye water, and unsalted butter. Use caution when handling water, as undiluted amounts are corrosive and can be harmful to health if touched, inhaled, or consumed.
8. Mix well to incorporate. Let rest for 30 minutes.
9. Line an 8 in x 8 in square pan with parchment paper. Prepare a steamer.
10. Once the water reaches a rolling boil, sieve the batter into the parchment-lined pan and steam for 20-30 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out moist but clean and free of crumbs.
11. Remove from the steamer and let cool slightly. Remove the parchment paper carefully.
12. Serve/slice and enjoy!

​The approach varied minimally from Papa Fung's original, but my deviations generally in a positive outcome. A darker hue more reminiscent of 馬拉糕's signature hue was achieved through the inclusion of black sugar, leading me to believe that sugars with higher concentration of cane components was required for successful execution (and improved flavour!). Using cake flour had also ensured that the batter could be sieved. Previously, the consistency was too viscous to pass through the sieve, and far too foamy to yield a plush texture.

​While the cushion-like visuals startled me at first, the cross-section instilled relief and joy. Visible, elongated voids could be observed near the surface. A domed centre was also typical of the steamed cake, confirming that nonstick had been the proper choice of pan. Aluminum, while promoting even heat distribution, is far trickier to clean. That said, I wouldn't eliminate the possibility of using an aluminum square pan should one come into my possession.

​I'm not entirely certain of the reasoning behind adding baking powder and milk powder following fermentation. Perhaps it was to create the vertical air pockets akin to the Caramel Honeycomb Cake. Regardless, I was pleased with the overall turnout.

Subsequent trials could probably see:

1. A greater proportion of cane sugar or black sugar to yellow cane/rock sugar (70-100%)
2. Adding in baking powder after fermentation to compare results
3. Testing a whole new recipe to determine the pivotal steps in making 馬拉糕
   

Brown Butter Brownies

Since the stovetop was warm anyway, I decided to introduce a variation to my previously established Brownies To End All Brownies recipe: brown butter.

The test formula would utilize 146 g of unsalted butter, a 12% increase from the 128 g of my original. Frankly, the arithmetic had gone wrong and I was supposed to compensate for loss of moisture via a 12% overall volume increase, rather than butter increase.
Further mistakes were made when cocoa powder was omitted entirely as a consequence of distractions. My procedure deviated again when instant espresso granules refused to dissolve in the warmed butter-chocolate mixture, prompting the addition of roughly 30 g of hot water and the inevitable separation of liquid and fat.

​All in all, my method could have been better.

I baked the slab for 10-15 minutes longer than I intended, primarily out of fear that the batter would not set. But, lo and behold, not only did I succeed in achieving the wispy, crackly surface, the centre remained moist and fudgy. Personally, this batch lacks the depth and structure contributed by the presence of cocoa powder. It is too sweet for my liking, and showcases a prominent presence of olive oil, despite its small quantity.

Used in this trial were:

• 146 g unsalted butter, turned to brown butter
• 135 g 52% chocolate couverture  
• 1 tsp instant espresso powder
• 30 g hot water
• 120 g granulated sugar
• 95 g dark brown sugar
• 2 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• pinch of salt
• 30 g AP
• 30 g cornstarch
• 17 g olive oil

​Unconvinced I am that brown butter elevates baked goods to the extent that many recipe creators declare. The nuttiness is not particularly evident in the final product, although the fumes persist in my kitchen, on my face, and in my hair.