For the past two weekends, I contemplated matcha shortbread cookies - in particular sablé. The image in mind was of a dainty round, speckled with glimmering granules of coarse sugar and adopting a diameter just slightly larger than a ping pong ball.
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Similar to last weekend, however, these tender-textured treats would not see materialization. Instead, I appointed a batch of crunchy granola as the project of the weekend. With an entire day of dedicated kitchen experimentation though, one can rest assured that more than one creation was undertaken.
1) Granola with Toasted Almonds and Pistachios
Inspiration would originate from a desire for crunchy breakfast food and a desire to deplete the remainder of my allergen-unfriendly supply of pistachios from Tavazo before the brief return of my browsing partner. As depicted in countless iterations in the past, granola is a hassle-free approach that transforms the basic pantry staple of oats to guarantee amplified flavour and texture. Homemade renditions are endlessly customizable, forgiving, and preposterously budget-friendly. While I've experimented with a variety of add-ins, dried cranberries, sesame seeds (black and white), and almonds constitute my regular picks, namely for their long shelf life but also for their unrivalled complexity.
Inspiration would originate from a desire for crunchy breakfast food and a desire to deplete the remainder of my allergen-unfriendly supply of pistachios from Tavazo before the brief return of my browsing partner. As depicted in countless iterations in the past, granola is a hassle-free approach that transforms the basic pantry staple of oats to guarantee amplified flavour and texture. Homemade renditions are endlessly customizable, forgiving, and preposterously budget-friendly. While I've experimented with a variety of add-ins, dried cranberries, sesame seeds (black and white), and almonds constitute my regular picks, namely for their long shelf life but also for their unrivalled complexity.
Deshelled pistachios and whole almonds would be toasted beforehand at 350 F for 5 minutes. Consistent with Pistachio Butter findings, the nuts were fairly easy to deshell (in contrast to the bulk barn variety) and the direct application of heat unleased impressive aromas. Almonds paled in the fragrance department, but had their signature hearty crunch revived during toasting.
The chopped nuts were then folded into unmeasured quantities of rolled oats, golden yellow sugar, olive oil, sesame seeds, and three egg whites. In learning from previous trials, one egg white would be insufficient in offering binding properties, though three would contribute a granola bar-like cohesiveness. Two egg whites was the ideal amount for my usual recipe, though I decided to increase the amount given that I had unintentionally crafted a larger batch than normal, simply by using a larger bowl for rough measurements.
The chopped nuts were then folded into unmeasured quantities of rolled oats, golden yellow sugar, olive oil, sesame seeds, and three egg whites. In learning from previous trials, one egg white would be insufficient in offering binding properties, though three would contribute a granola bar-like cohesiveness. Two egg whites was the ideal amount for my usual recipe, though I decided to increase the amount given that I had unintentionally crafted a larger batch than normal, simply by using a larger bowl for rough measurements.
The mass would be distributed in a single layer across a Silpat as evenly as possible before baking at 365 F for 30 minutes. In the absence of a watchful eye, the tray's contents emerged a tad burnt along the edges, but otherwise still delectably crunchy and gratifying. Having switched to Costco's whole dried cranberries, I observed significant puffiness in the berries after baking, but luckily less charring due to reduced surface area.
2) Lemon Curd Tart
Unsurprisingly, the granola ordeal had left me with three egg yolks. In consideration of the spectacular praise received from last weekend's Almond Frangipane Tart, I decided to craft yet another tart. One of the yolks would be used for a tart shell, while the other two for lemon curd.
i) Tart
SK's 9 inch made more than I had ever anticipated. To the formula's defense, I ought to have known that. The ingredient list couldn't exactly be scaled down, given the requirement of one egg yolk, though, in hindsight, I could have portioned out half and froze for later use.
SK's 9 inch made more than I had ever anticipated. To the formula's defense, I ought to have known that. The ingredient list couldn't exactly be scaled down, given the requirement of one egg yolk, though, in hindsight, I could have portioned out half and froze for later use.
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I had originally thought to portion out the dough to bake five small tarts, distributing 78-80 g across my range of mini and medium-sized tart pans. In the end, the quantity amounted to the equivalent of:
- Three medium aluminum tart pans
- Two small non-stick tart pans
- One small non-stick casserole dish
- Two mini aluminum tart foils
- One large aluminum tart foil
The decision to utilize different baking vessel materials had been unintentional. Between the aluminum and non-stick tart dishes, neither made a drastic difference in terms of unmoulding. On the other hand, the aluminum springform pans were superior at preventing puffing in the absence of pie weights, likely as they allowed for heat to dissipate underneath. The non-stick pans required some light tapping after par-baking for the base to even out, but warped/convex bases were ultimately unavoidable.
Once the tarts had been neatly pressed into the pans of choice, the trays were transferred to the fridge while preparing the filling.
Of the assortment, five portions of dough would be fully baked and four partially baked ("par-baked"). The plan was to fill the fully-cooked tart shells with lemon curd and the rest with an egg tart filling - totally unplanned, for the record.
Of the assortment, five portions of dough would be fully baked and four partially baked ("par-baked"). The plan was to fill the fully-cooked tart shells with lemon curd and the rest with an egg tart filling - totally unplanned, for the record.
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ii) Lemon Curd
Custard is too finnicky a component to merely rely on guesswork, thus I took to Sunday Baking to foolproof my formula. Her "Best Lemon Meringue Tart" recipe was adapted to use just two yolks and no whole eggs, as I wanted a relatively thick filling.
Custard is too finnicky a component to merely rely on guesswork, thus I took to Sunday Baking to foolproof my formula. Her "Best Lemon Meringue Tart" recipe was adapted to use just two yolks and no whole eggs, as I wanted a relatively thick filling.
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Ingredients
- 2 egg yolks / 36 g
- 90 g granulated sugar
- 15 g rice flour
- 4 g vanilla bean paste *
- 65 g lemon juice
- 65 g butter
The inclusion of vanilla bean paste was a further modification on my part. Albeit making for an attractive speckled surface, the addition did not bring amount noticeable flavour payoff. Instead of the listed quantity above, I'd recommend 2 g at most plus a splash of vanilla extract, if desired.
I had questioned the quantity of butter at first: adding an equal amount of butter as lemon juice by weight seemed excessive. The mixture would thicken immediately following fusion. The filling would be lined with plastic wrap to prevent formation of surface film, then set in the fridge for the time being. Silkiness would result, as would a somewhat satiating filling. I reckon that a lower quantity could be added without compromising the curd's zesty, refreshing profile.
3) Impromptu Egg Tarts
Par-baking the remaining tart shells was rather challenging, for they varied in diameter. In order to prevent burning, the mini tart shells would bake in the toaster oven, while the medium and large in the conventional oven.
As with the Almond Frangipane Tart before, the mini tart shells did not experience puffing in spite of omitting pie weights. On the other hand, the slightly larger and deeper variations were not as forgiving. Pie weights are recommended, for deflating puffed centres after baking would only result in warped undersides, as mentioned above.
Par-baking the remaining tart shells was rather challenging, for they varied in diameter. In order to prevent burning, the mini tart shells would bake in the toaster oven, while the medium and large in the conventional oven.
As with the Almond Frangipane Tart before, the mini tart shells did not experience puffing in spite of omitting pie weights. On the other hand, the slightly larger and deeper variations were not as forgiving. Pie weights are recommended, for deflating puffed centres after baking would only result in warped undersides, as mentioned above.
Using an egg tart filling had been a last-minute decision. I wanted nothing more than to wrap up kitchen operations for the day, and the formula utilized a straightforward ingredient list, of which all were on hand.
Hurriedly reviewing my archives to remind myself of no-go recipes, I dismissed The Woks of Life for a sugary, disappointing filling. The filling for Nata, the creamier, richer cousin of the classic Cantonese egg tart would also be unsuitable for this application.
In spite of the Simplified Chinese title - which irked me more than just slightly - and the uninspiring, rigid-looking cross-section of the custard, I bit the bullet and assembled the list from Omnivore's Cookbook.
Hurriedly reviewing my archives to remind myself of no-go recipes, I dismissed The Woks of Life for a sugary, disappointing filling. The filling for Nata, the creamier, richer cousin of the classic Cantonese egg tart would also be unsuitable for this application.
In spite of the Simplified Chinese title - which irked me more than just slightly - and the uninspiring, rigid-looking cross-section of the custard, I bit the bullet and assembled the list from Omnivore's Cookbook.
The filling would be roughly scaled by 2/3 and adapted based on inventory:
- ̶4̶ ̶l̶a̶r̶g̶e̶ ̶e̶g̶g̶s̶ → 3 eggs
- 60 g sugar
- ̶2̶0̶0̶ ̶g̶ ̶h̶o̶t̶ ̶w̶a̶t̶e̶r̶ → 150 g water
- ̶1̶2̶0̶ ̶g̶ ̶e̶v̶a̶p̶o̶r̶a̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶m̶i̶l̶k̶ → 90 g heavy cream
- ̶p̶i̶n̶c̶h̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶s̶a̶l̶t̶
I'll admit to incredulous uncertainty regarding the quantity of water, in addition to the specification for hot water. In reading the recipe notes after the fact, Omnivore's Cookbook detailed an unnecessarily lengthy process, wherein one would form a simple syrup, let it cool, then slowly incorporate the eggs without beating. Aeration of eggs is nothing to fear, for straining and setting the mixture aside will ensure a silky finish.
Into my par-baked tart shells, I'd carefully pour my sieved mixture. The ovens would be hastily set to 350 F, which caused the surfaces to burn before the centres had set. I reduced the oven temperature to 325 F afterwards, though the edges of the tart would still adorn some degree of char. Baking within the range of 310 - 325 F is ideal, should one be able to maintain internal heat. My oven is less than cooperative for such precision though: It hit 360 F at its peak and 290 F at its lowest.
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While not normally one to applaud my own adroitness, the egg tarts emerged far better than expected for an impromptu project. Indeed, the tarts were a bit burnt along the edges as well as the surface, though they were fantastically tasty nevertheless.
Surface colour and filling silkiness would vary across the tarts, depending on size and bake time. (Mind you - I did not keep track of their individual baking times, but merely waited for visual cues while flitting between the trays and washing dishes.) The mini tarts boasted a supple interior and the most uniform tart-to-filling ratio. In contrast, the medium offered a sturdier mouthfeel with more tart than filling. The large aluminum foil container had baked for the longest due to volume, resulting in a friable tart edge and somewhat soggy underside. Given that the tray had been removed almost immediately after the filling had set, the interior was incredibly silky and delectable.
Surface colour and filling silkiness would vary across the tarts, depending on size and bake time. (Mind you - I did not keep track of their individual baking times, but merely waited for visual cues while flitting between the trays and washing dishes.) The mini tarts boasted a supple interior and the most uniform tart-to-filling ratio. In contrast, the medium offered a sturdier mouthfeel with more tart than filling. The large aluminum foil container had baked for the longest due to volume, resulting in a friable tart edge and somewhat soggy underside. Given that the tray had been removed almost immediately after the filling had set, the interior was incredibly silky and delectable.
Suffice to say, the experiment served as motivation to pursue my childhood favourite of Butter Crust Egg Tarts in the future.
Leftover filling would be baked solo, yielding custard cups for snacking.
4) Matcha Ganache
It is worth noting that I did not terminate the slew of unprecedented trials there. The next morning, I'd tackle my lone tart shell with matcha ganache.
It is worth noting that I did not terminate the slew of unprecedented trials there. The next morning, I'd tackle my lone tart shell with matcha ganache.
A 1:1 ratio of heavy cream and Blancor would be used. The couverture would be melted in two bowls: one with a splash of cream and another with two teaspoons of Hokusan Niju. The intent was the gradually incorporate the powder into the chocolate first as the preserve fluidity.
I'll admit to forgetting a few knobs of unsalted butter to keep air bubbles at bay. In addition, it's worth noting that my last-minute compilation provided more than enough ganache to fill 1.5 tart small shells, and that Hokusan remains a great choice for colour, but is detrimental for flavour payoff.
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In summary:
- With one egg yolk on hand, one can make the tart dough, then split and freeze.
- Use less butter in the lemon curd; vanilla is optional
- Do not overbake tart
- Pie weights are essential for par-baking tart shells; exception: mini tart shells
- Springform tart pans are superior to casserole dishes as they assist with heat dissipation underneath
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