Korea DAY 8: (Pt. 2) Hongdae

3/20/2025

Read Part 1 HERE !

Making our way towards Guro station at 4:30 PM was definitely later than I would have preferred. With my browsing partner in tow though, skewed starts were practically inevitable.

The plan was to visit Hongdae in hopes of catching a glimpse of buskers, as the unplanned detour towards Lotte Mall the previous day had derailed this itinerary. From Guro to Hongdae, the trip by metro involved:

Taking Line 1 to Sindorim station
Transferring onto Line 2
Taking Line 2 to Hongik University station

While Line 1 is operated by KORAIL and runs at grade, Line 2 assumes the traditional subway format, being underground.

I've often viewed transfers as a relatively easy way to navigate across any transit network, however I soon learned of the sheer distance between subway lines in Seoul. The trek was not insignificant, but was still doable on our first day back in the city. With time though, I'd discover that transfers are confusing and nowhere as seamless as crossing to the other side of the platform (Vancouver's SkyTrain) or navigating to one platform level above or below (Toronto's TTC). Granted, Seoul was much bigger, with a transit network that expanded dynamically based on demand and usage patterns.

The sight of subway corridors being used for retail opportunities was refreshing. Beyond providing a sheltered connection, the spaces enabled both franchises and up-and-coming vendors to settle into a spot of convenience for the average commuter.

Sizable LED panels for advertisements weren't uncommon either. I pointed towards an ad for Dole bananas, noting astonishment towards the need for advertising what is considered a cheap, commonplace staple in North American households. Being not one to frequent grocery stores, my browsing partner's only comment was that the ad appeared to AI-generated; "Look at the hand. It looks weird."

The interior of the Line 2 passenger cars had been adapted for transport of high volumes of passengers. Seats were nestled closer together, while LED screens and station stop alerts more prevalent than their KORAIL counterpart. Generally speaking, these cars were also noted to be grimier, likely due to usage.

Exiting at Hongik University, the scene was immediately found to be much less peaceful than the industrial-residential neighbourhood of Guro. Pop culture ads dominated the station accesses, with promotional snippets for new song releases and birthday banners for well-loved idols being exceptionally common.

We ascended towards street level and were immediately met with an outdoor flea market of sorts. The bustling environment instilled an immediate sense of excitement. On the other hand, my browsing partner appeared visibly bothered by the sensory overload and constantly pestered me to verify the coordinates of my intended POI instead.

Within the first few minutes of walking, I stumbled upon the Hongdae pop-up space wherein NERDY was situated.

The streetwear shop was situated on the second floor of the establishment.

Sweatshirts, graphic tees, Gen Z-style handbags, and a variety of tracksuits could be found on the floor. It was interesting to lay eyes on the physical merchandise, for I had only browsed NERDY's global website previously.
That said, the enthusiasm and longing accompanying my entrance into the space rapidly dissipated. The designs were admittedly mundane and lacked uniqueness. Although I debated a lilac-hued knit toque, the embroidered "N" on the front was far too plain for a product priced at 39,000 KRW. Ultimately, I departed without making a purchase.

The commute by subway had been straightforward, but, by no means, brief. I was eager to find a washroom at the earliest opportunity.

My browsing partner seemed dismayed that we wouldn't be roaming the corridors. The declaration was strange and off-putting to me, for roaming and bathroom breaks are not mutually exclusive.

As we proceeded down the street, the increased amount of filth from other neighbourhoods was undeniable. For starters, there were garbage bins observed along the edge of the walkway - a rarity outside subway stations. Besides being stained with soot from cigarette butts, many of these bins were overflowing with trash: beverage cups that hadn't been sorted as per the nationwide recycling policies, plastic packaging, used napkins, and more.

Glancing about, there were also more foreigners than locals. Spotting a domestic resident suddenly became a challenge. Non-Asians with dyed hair sprawled on the ground were no longer uncommon, as was overhearing English around every corner.

We paused for a busking performance, which easily assumed the highlight of the stopover. Shortly afterwards, I reiterated urgency for a bathroom. The public bathrooms positioned throughout the street all featured ridiculous lineups and stuffy internal conditions.
Dodging the cigarette fumes of smokers, local and foreign alike, I led the way towards a café in a commercial high-rise building.

Vertical Coffee offered a Toronto-like aesthetic, complete with a streamlined colour scheme of white and royal blue, supposedly minimal, geometric-shaped stools, and wall projections. I made a beeline for the women's bathroom, leading the barista to call out in a singsong voice from behind the order counter, "You need to make a purchase to use the bathroom.".

And so we approached the counter to make a purchase. The same staff member scrunched her nose in my direction when I attempted to place a drink order in Korean. She seemed to not understand the words being uttered, or was trying hard to decipher whether or not we were tourists warranting respect, and replied to us in English instead.
My browsing partner requested a Black Peach Iced Tea, originally intending it to be consumed on-site. The cashier curtly responded that a minimum order of one drink per person was required for dine-in, leading us to request the costly 6500 KRW beverage to go. This approach, while unquestionably rude, worked in my favour as I wished not to dally in the Hongdae neighbourhood for longer than necessary. It was positively filthy, smelly, and uncomfortable.

Once the transaction was completed, I was provided the passcode for the bathroom. If the despicable attitude of the barista hadn't been sufficient in warding off customers, the bathroom surely provided the final blow. Offering an eerie aura and dust-covered countertop and paper towel dispenser, the facilities were hardly worthy of being called a café, especially in the likes of appearance-focused Korea. The bathroom stall was revolting, with plenty of hair and dust on the floor. In the corner of the cramped space was a lofty, cylindrical garbage brimming with waste - likely unemptied from the night before. Naturally, I tried to avoid coming into contact with the gag-worthy vessel.

The heaviness of Kyochon Chicken hadn't sat well with my stomach after all. Our stopover at Vertical was mandatory, albeit as abominable as could be in all aspects. It was as if no one had bothered to clean in centuries!

I exited with a face full of disgust, guiding us out of the building and fiercely announcing my displeasure:
Hongdae was officially filthy.

"Let's get out of here." My steps began to quicken.

Despite being flooded with tourists, Hongdae offered nothing of interest to me. The fashion was hardly office-appropriate - or intended for anyone above the age of 25, for that matter. K-Pop stores did not carry products related to any group beyond the newest generation either.

We continued southbound, passing through Hongdae Festival Street to a multi-level boutique of eco-friendly products, homeware and stationery, and a mini art gallery.

A subsequent bathroom stop was made here. Akin to public facilities in North America, the space was passable, but hardly aligned with the definition of "clean". In addition, the faucet was barely functional, with a wad of paper towels smooshed against its base. Truthfully, I was sick and tired of these all-too-familiar public bathroom setups.

While my browsing partner was none too eager to leave, I had officially had it with Hongdae. En route to the main street though, my attention was directed to Baskin Robbins. I wasn't particularly hungry, but I wasn't about to forego the opportunity to try BamBam's recommended flavour of Shooting Star.

Country-specific exclusives are not uncommon for global franchises. Besides flavours of Salted Milk and Cheetos Milkshake (Ewww), the Korean outposts also offered character-themed ice cream cakes and even a Rubik's cube of assorted flavours for optimal variety.

One scoop of Shooting Star ice cream in a waffle cone set us back 4700 KRW, the equivalent of $4.66 CAD. Similar to Vertical Coffee, orders were placed using a kiosk instead real-life interactions at the counter.

Shooting Star was described as a medley of Blueberry, Cherry, and popping bits. Consistent with their colour concentration, both fruit flavours were found atrociously artificial. The Blueberry was mild and the crunchy bits interesting, but the inclusion of cherry flavouring and cherry syrup was horrendous. Even the first bite had been difficult; depleting the entire serving proved excruciating at best.

The waffle cup assisted in offering partial relief from the intensely medicinal profile. Nonetheless, we were convinced that BamBam's recommendation was not for us.