Korea DAY 6: (Pt. 1) Unsuccessful Hallasan Hike + Ara Dong Historic and Cultural Trail

My primary Jeju activity was hiking. In fact, the vast majority of the trip had been centred about a coastal drive on the island and the long-awaited Hallasan hike.

Preparations for this event had been made well in advance, from researching entry requirements, making reservations as soon as the booking window opened, reviewing bus routes (and alternatives before 6 AM), and establishing the best/tried-and-true option of accommodations. The latter was, of course, in reference to Hotel Nanta.

We awoke to find the outside world cloaked in a layer of fluffy, white mass - a sight us Canadians knew all too well. Snowfall hadn't been predicted as part of the forecast, though the sudden plummet into the negatives had likely prompted the phenomenon overnight.

I didn't think much of the below-seasonal conditions, save layering accordingly. Our sandwiches and kimbap would be slid from the fridge into my sturdy, reliable Congee Queen containers from home, then into my backpack. One firm lace-up of our boots and we'd be on our way downstairs.

Our departure was well after 6 AM, which meant that municipal buses in the direction of Hallasan would be running. I checked the bus departure table near the front desk for Gwaneumsa, for Hallasan had two trail heads for reaching the peak, and led the way outside.

​Snowfall was relatively light, but nevertheless more than anticipates.
In search of the bus, we first crossed over the parking lot, unknowingly entering the bus loop waiting area. The driver, supposedly on his break, directed us back to the bus stop. We adhered to his instructions.

When he pulled up to the stop, I inquired to confirm that we would, indeed, be heading towards Hallasan.
His response came as shocking, for he said that no buses were heading there. I could not interpret the words spoken afterwards. Before I could clarify further though, he rushed a decision from us, exclaiming that he was "already two minutes late". The truth was that he had pulled up late to the bus stop to start, as the exchange barely lasted thirty seconds.

I got off the bus and returned to the side of my browsing partner.
"He said the bus doesn't go to Hallasan..." I informed of the exchange. "But I don't know why."

​Perplexed but resolute, we called an Uber instead.

The ride was no more than seven minutes.

​We pulled up a strangely empty lot. Low visitor volumes deviated from the results of my research, but we assumed it to be a consequence of sudden snow. Admittedly, there was a thicker layer than viewed from our hotel room.

​After a quick look at the trail map, we spotted signage for the check-in desk and bathrooms.
Indoor plumbing was provided in a squat building accessible by a ramp lined with slip-resistant mats.

​We then approached the ticket booth. The reservation bar code was presented to staff, who posed questions incomprehensible on the basis of my Korean vocabulary. In response, the lady behind the counter swiftly beckoned English-speaking assistance from the middle-aged man behind her. It was then that we learned of Hallasan's sudden day closure due to "unexpected snow". Crampons had also become mandatory as well, but had apparently only been announced a day prior on the reservation page, then slated for immediate implementation.

​​We later found that notice of closure was also only posted on the Korean version of the website, while the National Park appeared to operate as normal from the viewpoint of the English website. Despite undergoing a comprehensive registration process and providing our contact information in addition to details on nationality/country of visit, we did not receive emails to notify of the changes nor the closure.

Having travelled all the way and even prepared to a tremendous degree, I was reasonably disappointed. Due to the steepness of the trails, all routes, including the ones that did not lead up to the peak, would be closed for snow clearing for at least "a few days". It was no wonder that the buses weren't stopping by Hallasan!

​​I requested potential alternatives for hiking, at which point the man withdrew a map and pointed towards the Jeju Olle trail that lined the perimeter of the island. Despite being the next best solution to enjoying a nature walk in Jeju, the elevation difference was hardly mountainous, he implied.

All in all, the Hallasan hike was unsuccessful.

Without much else to do on the National Park grounds, we collectively agreed that the best option was to head back to Nanta and consider other activities for the day.

Being not one to waste time, I led the way to the road. I reckoned that, while we couldn't hike, we could at least get some steps by travelling back on foot.

​Mind you, walking along the road was no easy feat in the absence of a sidewalk. Where possible, we adhered to the boundary of the shoulder, travelling opposite to the direction of vehicular traffic for safety.

Snow clearing had already taken place, thus there were few concerns about vehicles slipping and sliding without snow tires. Unlike the rural roads of Ontario, Jeju's winding asphalt corridors were ridiculously smooth and level. Traffic volumes were also noted to be relatively low given the early hour.

The surrounding sights wasn't drastically different from winter climate back home. That said, the combination of slick, quiet roads, snow-covered tree limbs, and hazy morning aura painted an almost-surreal, dreamy setting. In spite of the unfortunate circumstances, the scenery was distinctly memorable: beautifully snowy and serene, reminiscent of romance dramas set in the winter season.

It was as if I had stepped foot into a fantasy world.

​Along the way, we passed by Gwaneumsa Temple, its presence distinguished by strings of lanterns nearby.

We then chanced across a path further from the road. There were a handful of indentations already - footsteps from other trekkers. Consulting the map, it was confirmed that these unsigned pathways would eventually lead us back in the direction of Nanta.
​And so, we went.

​A fork led us to Mysterious Road, a pathway that was evidently less travelled from the lack of snow clearing and few tire tracks.

Tourism boards and signage lent a notably less mysterious vibe to the segment. If anything, it seemed to be a local quirk fitting of a quick stopover.

We arrived at a gargantuan map of island, which assisted us in planning our itinerary for the rest of the day.

"Let's check out the Forest of Healing." I declared, turning to my browsing partner. "We can even go back to Innisfree now that we have a whole day!"

​Slowly but surely, we continued on the trail. Initially, my browsing partner had expressed hesitation towards my proposal of following the road. After stumbling off-road trails, however, the attitude had altered completely.

We stumbled upon the Ara Dong Historic and Cultural Trail. It was an incredibly delightful surprise, and even included a trail map to assist with wayfinding.

Within moments of entering the trail, we'd lay eyes on a series of wooden platforms. Each was numbered and included a short broom with vibrant green bristles for clearing leaves.
While we were nowhere to close to the Seogwipo Forest of Healing, our immediate surrounding indicated that the description could have applied to various areas surrounding Hallasan.

​The Ara Dong trail was sodden and mostly muddy, likely a consequence from melted snow. Partially barren trees, shiny rocks covered in vines and moss, and warm-toned fallen leaves gave the illusion of fall.

A few short uphill stretches led us to unexpected viewpoints of the city and Jeju's many mountains. Most of interesting of all, we hadn't encountered a single other human during this impromptu expedition. This experience was uninterrupted and exclusive to us.

​The Ara Dong Historic and Cultural Trail eventually connected to a collection of one-way trails measuring 14.2 km in total. This section saw cooler temperatures, as observed in the persistence of snow on the ground.

​Although I was eager to explore further, Hotel Nanta was already within reach. Diverting onto the next trail would threaten our ability to make it to Innisfree, or so my browsing partner warned.

​One of two protein shakes was withdrawn for mid-morning consumption. Surprisingly, the sweet potato edition was quite scrumptious; its profile leaned closer towards an aromatic, roasted sweet potato milkshake than an artificially flavoured drinkable supplement.

In exiting 지계의 길,  we discovered the infamous dust blower station. The sheltered platform featured two wands, each intended to provide high-velocity gusts to remove sand and debris from clothing and footwear after hiking. The publicly accessible device was one that impressed me greatly, for such technology would have malfunctioned within minutes of installation under North American usage tendencies (ie. misuse and neglect).

​Although the dust blowers succeeded in reinstating small leaves back to their place of origin, muddy patches would refuse to budge. We accepted our fate, and climbed the steep, paved ascent back to Hotel Nanta.

Source: Jeju Tourism

Eighty minutes of aimless trail exploration later, we were back in the hotel room. The differential treatment of the landing area and bedroom portion floorboards was much appreciated, as the soles of our trail shoes succumbed to thick coats of mud

Read Part 2 HERE !