Korea DAY 3: (Pt. 2) Arrival in Jeju

Read Part 1 HERE !

​Waiting for boarding in a toasty environment was unbearable. Yet, it seemed that only I was unaccustomed to midday UV rays permeating the glass windows.

The cramped aircraft hadn't helped my case either. It had been years since I had last sat in Economy. Besides the narrow corridor of the passenger plane, tray tables adopted the now-obsolete folding type. To make mattes worse, my table was positively grimy, bearing indicators of a distinctively brown drink spill - either coffee or Cola. My browsing partner had opted for the window seat, and I saw that tables closer to the window were cleaner than the aisle. I scrubbed at my seat with vigor, only to never really utilize the tray table over the one-hour flight.

Another feature of the small, old aircraft were buttons and twist fans overhead. Despite my greatest attempts to sleep during the flight, I was rudely awoken by turbulence. Thankfully, the fan had been set on max to improve air circulation around me. There were no barf bags in the seat pocket in front of me.

Advertising was prevalent throughout the inside of the plane, making it easy for brands to leave an impression. This promotional approach was not unlike the ads spotted in subways, with the exception of celebrity spokespeople. Korea truly enjoyed such association, to a degree I shall never comprehend.

​Likely in light of the recent Jeju Air tragedy, safety and evacuation demonstrations were executed to tremendous detail. One of two flight attendants progressed through the steps of using the oxygen mask, all while looking absolutely soul-less. She was very unimpressed, and reasonably so if she had demonstrated the same sequence upwards of twenty times in a day.
I had placed my backpack on my lap instead of sliding it underneath the seat in front of me. While the flight attendant had strolled the aisles, she had not urged me to tuck the bag away as Air Canada staff would undoubtedly have.​

​Despite being delayed at the gate, boarding of passengers took place at an astoundingly quick pace. Closing of the aircraft door and taxi proceeded nearly immediately. That said, takeoff was delayed, resulting in an arrival time of 10 minutes past anticipated.

During boarding, I couldn't help but observe that Zone number did not correlate to Seat number. Being in Zone 3, we were amongst the last group to board, even if our seat was towards the front of the aircraft in the 5th row. This approach was peculiar and not very efficient as it created delays in the corridor.
One had the option of choosing seats during the reservation process, which would incur fees of 1,000 - 5,000 KRW. Those closer to the front would be priced higher than those in the rows behind. No fees would be incurred if opting not to choose a seat in advance. For those without pre-selected seats, flyers could pick from the available selection using the Self Check-In kiosk.

​The flight enabled me a firsthand peek into Korea's infamous "rush mentality". Passengers on board our flight were primarily locals ranging between the ages of 25 to 55. Not a single person waited for the seat belt sign to turn off before slowly getting up. Rather, patrons were standing up and ripping off their seat belts from the millisecond that the sign was no longer illuminated. Calls were being made and social media feeds were being watched like breaking news. Upon nearing the gate, the aircraft door opened immediately, allowing deplaning to take place. The masses rushed to get off the flight, as if the one-hour journey had delayed them half their day.

The hurried pace continued from the gate to the baggage claim area. Impressive were the consistent footsteps of those around me, to the point where no one in the office would ever declare me as a "speedwalker" had they witnessed the scene unfold.

Featuring dim lighting and low ceilings, the baggage area reminded me of Halifax and Montréal. Though, Halifax did not see as many patrons and Montréal was smaller and grimmer, without any form of embellishments.
Jeju International Airport included three photo spots near the exit, along with a promotional sequence playing on the LED screens wrapped around surrounding pillars.

Even those that had rushed to disembark the aircraft slowed near the displays. Each party took quick snapshots before proceeding on their way; such conciseness prevented a queue from forming, as one would have expected in North America with hoards of Chinese tourists.

​The most innovative method of capturing a photo was seen in a couple's use of the carry-on handle bar as a tripod. Before dashing to the display with Stone Grandfathers and Hallabong, a woman positioned her phone against the handle bar and set a timer. Then the couple dashed into frame with gleeful smiles. Absolutely adorable was this encounter - in sheer contrast to the grumbly travel companion next to me.

​There was more to explore upon exiting the baggage claim. Of note was a series of restaurants arranged in a semi-circle with a faux naturescape centrepiece.

​We'd also lay eyes on a rare WOWPASS kiosk and a decently sized Olive Young.

​I headed outside for a brief moment, leaving my browsing partner to handle luggage and investigate next steps. (Of course, the latter was not done.) Past the automatic sliding doors were dreary, grey skies, waving palm trees, and slick asphalt. Conditions were humid, concluding the arrival (or ongoing status) of a tropical storm.

​Many passengers had huddled about a nearby bus stop, likely with the intention of heading into Jeju City.

I took note of the amenities on site, including a fourth floor observatory (that we wouldn't be visiting) and muddled directions for the rental car facilities. The label of "Rental Car Shuttles" implied that such facilities were located off-site, as opposed to navigable via indoor passages of the airport.

Heading back inside the terminal, I realized my browsing partner had not made any progress with the rental car administrative activities and had, instead, been awaiting my return to commence any work. The delay in action frustrated me, for the Lotte Rent-A-Car help desk was just a few steps away.
Shaking my head in annoyance, I neared the section of the counter that offered English-speaking services and presented my reservation confirmation. The lady behind the desk was exceptionally friendly and verified my documents one by one. She explained the next steps with clarity: Given that the reservation had not been made under the same name as the International Driving Permit (IDP) holder, additional administrative steps would be required. It was advised that the IDP holder create a user account with Lotte Rent-A-Car such that booking could be shifted under the same name.
In consideration of time, she recommended that we board the shuttle to the Lotte facility first, as account creation could take place during the commute. Subsequent steps could be finalized at the rental location by on-site staff.

And so, we followed the masses and respective signage, crossing over to a covered walkway with artificial grass as carpeting. The covered corridor offered protection from ongoing precipitation. We continued trekking until reaching Lotte Rent-A-Car's shuttle bus stop near the very end of the walkway. By this point, we had grown haggard from the turn of events. Squelching patches of sodden carpeting underneath my non-waterproof sneakers had also made for heightened displeasure.

​Successfully boarding the shuttle offered tremendous relief. Despite our luggage barely fitting into the dedicated storage sections, I heaved a sigh knowing that we were on our way at long last. In spite of the online documentation about Jeju car rentals - be they forums or VLOGS - reality confirmed that the process wasn't nearly as straightforward as others had made it out to be:

• For starters, there were countless rental car companies, likely the reason why rental facilities are located off-site instead of easily accessible within airport corridors.
• For every rental car company, there was a dedicated shuttle bus. These buses operated akin to standard buses, with numbered stops to indicate their boarding area. However, instead of assigning one number per company, several companies shared a range of stops with some overlap. As an example, Company A boarding would take place at stops 1-3, but Company B boarding may take place from 3-5. It didn't help that all the shuttle buses assumed a similar exterior, save the logo on the side.
• Shuttle buses were not always available. According to the schedule posted within the airport, their arrival times were staggered. On average, they would come every 15-20 minutes.

​Although there was a departure board and plenty of signage within the airport, the information was not categorized clearly for ease of navigation. The average traveller could easily misinterpret the wayfinding elements for taxis, buses, and rental car shuttle buses. Essentially, it was data overload without a sense of synthesis. There was also minimal warning, if any, regarding timing of each event (ie. syncing reservations, walking, waiting for the shuttle, travel time towards the rental facility, etc.). In addition, the advertised process did not consider those travelling in large groups with young children and elderly, nor those with copious amounts of luggage (us).
As I'd later learn, Korean appeared to operate in a manner where processes are advertised as swift and efficient, but exclude important details about preparation and aftermath.

Ten to fifteen minutes later, we'd arrive at Lotte Rent-A-Car. The facility was positively bustling. Despite the depressing weather, many locals had decided to make the trip over from the Korean mainland.

Scanning the vicinity, there appeared to be three methods of obtaining one's reserved vehicle:

1. Self-Serve Kiosk
2. Korean-speaking counter
3. "Foreigner"/English-speaking counter

Instead of placing queue markers, visitors would obtain a "Waiting Ticket" to secure their spot for service. Admittedly, I found it quite novel to have dedicated waiting tickets for domestic (Korean-speaking) and "foreigner" (English-speaking) clients. The tickets were assigned different numbering sequences, allowing customers to be directed to the appropriate staff member for assistance

​Approximately 60% of the clients were domestic visitors, either middle-aged women or families with young children. While in wait of our turn, I discovered the availability of on-site bathrooms and yet another LED screen listing customer names and the parking area of their assigned rental vehicle.

​When our number was called, the English-speaking member of staff confirmed the reservation transfer and provided an info sheet for reference. Indicated on the slip was our vehicle model, parking area, gas type, and return date. My browsing partner made a fuss about "LPG", an exclusive type of gas apparently not offered at all stations.
Adjacent to the payment terminal was a table of tourism discounts, ranging from museum and dining offers to admissions to Snoopy Planet.

​With paperwork finalized, we set out to Parking Area 6H, following the pavement markings depicting the pedestrian route.

​The vehicle was remarkably pristine - not an ounce of dust, smear, or stain anywhere! In front of the passenger seat, a sticker had been placed to confirm completion of cleaning and enforce policies to keep pets in cages and forbid smoking.

Accompanying the rental was a built-in navigation system (extremely helpful for locating local destinations) and even a dashcam!

​Departing the facility, a member of staff documented the existing fuel level. We were instructed to return the car with a similar amount, or risk facing additional charges due to insufficiency.

​Driving through Jeju City wasn't the most interesting of ventures. The streets curved abruptly and congestion was comparable to suburban neighbourhoods during rush hour. That said, it was still better than driving in urban areas. 

​We quickly learned that speed limits were strictly enforced on the island, to the extent where the navigation screen would flash red if the limit was exceeded. Cameras were also observed at nearly every signalized intersection, threatening the receipt of speeding tickets.

Although my browsing partner griped at the odd transitions of 30, 40, and 50 km/h zones, the complaints gradually decreased as we traversed into the calmer, residential areas. Much to my surprise, there were barely any vehicles on the road on Saturday evening. The estimated ninety-minute commute steadily reduced to just fifty-seven minutes.

At first, we regarded the navigation directions with wary, for we had guided onto a narrow, unpaved farm road. Proceeding cautiously, the reserved Airbnb came into view from afar, allowing me to confirm validity of the route. Given the muddy grounds and sharp, unsigned turns, extreme care was demanded to prevent accidentally scratching the car.

​We arrived at long last, laying eyes on the series of "pensions" I had investigated comprehensively in the months prior.

​Four tandem parking spaces were outlined before the first house. Not a single one was occupied though. A single white car was parking on a gravel lot located perpendicular to the grid; we presumed it to belong to the owner/Airbnb host.

​​​Braving ruthless gusts, we meandered towards Pension No. 1. About two weeks ago, the host had reached out to confirm booking of Pension No. 1. At fist, I was surprised given that my request was for No. 2. Ultimately, No. 1 had been the most fitting choice, for it featured the white curtains that I desired and proximity to the washer and dryer room.

​The keypad code had been provided in advance of our arrival. As my browsing partner transported luggage from the trunk and passenger seat, I worked to unlock our accommodations for the next two nights. Three attempts later, the cozy interior was finally unveiled. I was in awe!

Attractive, spacious, and beautiful, the pension aligned exactly with the images posted online. The landing area was set at a lower elevation than the ground floor, allowing for temporary storage of luggage and facilitating removal of shoes. The colourful tiling instilled a sense of whimsy, beyond allowing for ease of cleaning.

Beyond the landing area was a small kitchen, complete with sink, cooktop, and microwave. There was also a small fridge adjacent to this setup. Utensils, plates, and pots could be found in the drawers and cabinets underneath, though it should be noted that washing before use was non-negotiable. Grease and food remnants were spotted even at a distance. The interior of the microwave was also heavily soiled with bits of food, arguably dirtier than those in publicly accessible convenience stores.

​Separating the kitchen and fireplace was an elevated living room/dining room. This area provided access to the backyard, bathroom, and partial view into the adjacent pool area. Utilization of the pool would incur an additional 90,000 KRW fee, while the fireplace priced by butane and log usage. Neither were of interest to us.
Above the dining area was a projector, such that movies and television could be viewed from both levels of the building.

The washroom boasted similar tiling to the landing area, but adopted a sauna-like appeal. Wooden ceilings with skylights and a jacuzzi-style bath area were notable features. I appreciated the consistent tiling throughout, as it meant damp feet could access the towel storage without fear of floor damage and slippage. That said, the steep steps leading down towards the shower area was most definitely not accessible. We also later learned that evening that water pressure was severely lacking. The pressure in the faucet was, sadly, stronger than the streams emerging from the showerhead. In fact, the tap was so strong, splashes onto the mirror were nearly inevitable.

A single plastic cup was found near the sink. This vessel was presumed for brushing teeth, but there was only one for the two of us. In reaching out to the host, my request for a second cup was dismissed immediately, with the reasons being "sustainability" and "Korean culture". Her intent was to encourage sharing of one cup, but that we could utilize the ceramic cups in the kitchen if desired. Nonsensical in more ways than one, it appeared that she wished to refrain from direct contact with the guests as much as possible. In the end, we resolved to use the plastic cup for brushing teeth and the patterned ceramic ones for drinking water and coffee.

Save a few stray hairs in the corners, the bathroom was quite clean. Signage near the toilet warned against using too much toilet paper, as clogging was possible. This message was posted in both Korean and English, likely targeting speakers of both groups.

​The aspect that caught us off guard was the heated floor. Neither of us was accustomed to the setup, nor were we particularly fond of the added temperature when it came to food items in our luggage being warmed accidentally. Having placed makeup and coffee beans near the bottom of my suitcase, the first evening taught me to reconfigure the arrangement accordingly.

​Wooden stairs led up to the second floor bedroom. At first glance, the steps seemed to be positioned at uniform heights and distances. Only with repeated use did we find its surface dangerously slippery and the turns hazardous in dim lighting.

Aside from these design choices, the space was positively serene. The combination of slanted ceiling lights and floor-to-ceiling curtains exuded a bright, welcoming impact. Tall windows and skylights also ensured plenty of natural illumination during daytime, while a single window by the stairwell provided much-needed relief from stuffiness come nighttime.

​I took note of outlet inventory, the dust of the railing, and the view of the dining room from above. Descending back downstairs, we'd proceed to transport our bags past the landing area and gradually settle in.

Read Part 3 HERE !