Read Part 2 HERE !
The Air Canada booth was located at the very end of the international terminal, which prompted hurried footsteps (me only) and deep sighs. Of all the outbound flights from Incheon, there was only one flight operating to Toronto via Air Canada.
The attendant behind the counter barely had to ask "Where are you flying to?", as there was only one answer.
Due to my baggage count reaching capacity, my new carry-on from The North Face was assigned to my browsing partner's allowance. When provided the option of checking in the suitcase at no extra charge, there was no hesitation expressed. Needless to say, I wasn't pleased to have an utterly new purchase be subject to the notoriously rough handling of cargo loading staff. Furthering my concerns was the absence of a padlock. But my points became invalid in the face of someone who did not wish to wield extra baggage.
The attendant behind the counter barely had to ask "Where are you flying to?", as there was only one answer.
Due to my baggage count reaching capacity, my new carry-on from The North Face was assigned to my browsing partner's allowance. When provided the option of checking in the suitcase at no extra charge, there was no hesitation expressed. Needless to say, I wasn't pleased to have an utterly new purchase be subject to the notoriously rough handling of cargo loading staff. Furthering my concerns was the absence of a padlock. But my points became invalid in the face of someone who did not wish to wield extra baggage.
These arguments later became minor frustrations in the face of other pre-departure procedures. Obtaining tax refunds was the singly most stressful and time-consuming element of our time at the airport, even more so than passing through security.
Between the countless forum posts and friend/coworker recaps, obtaining our tax refunds was far more troublesome than others made it out to be. For starters, tax refund kiosks were only located at two designated points throughout the terminal. At the closest station was a single attendant and an info banner bearing QR codes. The attendant provided absolutely no assistance whatsoever, merely gesturing to the QR codes as he remained stationed at his post.
From what I had gathered, each QR code corresponded to a different tax refund issuing company, each with their own browser-based portal for processing receipts. In other words, one would need to determine the tax refund issuing company based on their receipt header and complete the process for each receipt on hand. I had about five receipts; since nearly all had different issuing companies, the process was repeated several times. Mind you - each submission required photo capture of your passport. In the case where the photo recognition was not satisfactory, the process would be restarted.
Tax refunds could be credited to a credit card, so it was also pivotal to have the desired card handy. Undertaking this multi-step procedure while standing (with luggage!) about was no simple feat.
For the last two receipts, there was no corresponding QR code on the info banner, so the attendant directed us to a series of self-serve kiosks instead. A hoard of tourists happened to cluster in front of these kiosks at this time, each bearing a thick wad of receipts in hand. I grew antsy while waiting for one of the machines to become available.
The self-serve kiosk operated in an identical manner to the one housed at Nyu Nyu, with the exception that it recognized receipts from all tax refund issuing companies. However, there was one caveat: Tax refunds processed at the airport could not be refunded in the form of cash. It was a two-step process that involved queuing again after passing security.
Suffice to say, it is worthwhile to arrive early to sort out these procedures before boarding.
Between the countless forum posts and friend/coworker recaps, obtaining our tax refunds was far more troublesome than others made it out to be. For starters, tax refund kiosks were only located at two designated points throughout the terminal. At the closest station was a single attendant and an info banner bearing QR codes. The attendant provided absolutely no assistance whatsoever, merely gesturing to the QR codes as he remained stationed at his post.
From what I had gathered, each QR code corresponded to a different tax refund issuing company, each with their own browser-based portal for processing receipts. In other words, one would need to determine the tax refund issuing company based on their receipt header and complete the process for each receipt on hand. I had about five receipts; since nearly all had different issuing companies, the process was repeated several times. Mind you - each submission required photo capture of your passport. In the case where the photo recognition was not satisfactory, the process would be restarted.
Tax refunds could be credited to a credit card, so it was also pivotal to have the desired card handy. Undertaking this multi-step procedure while standing (with luggage!) about was no simple feat.
For the last two receipts, there was no corresponding QR code on the info banner, so the attendant directed us to a series of self-serve kiosks instead. A hoard of tourists happened to cluster in front of these kiosks at this time, each bearing a thick wad of receipts in hand. I grew antsy while waiting for one of the machines to become available.
The self-serve kiosk operated in an identical manner to the one housed at Nyu Nyu, with the exception that it recognized receipts from all tax refund issuing companies. However, there was one caveat: Tax refunds processed at the airport could not be refunded in the form of cash. It was a two-step process that involved queuing again after passing security.
Suffice to say, it is worthwhile to arrive early to sort out these procedures before boarding.
 |  |
I sped through security without any issues, though my browsing partner was subject to a second screening when issues arose regarding biometrics previously submitted. After a fifteen-minute delay, we navigated towards the Tax Refund section to obtain our cash reimbursements.
Of course, there was another lineup to reach the counter. Those that had forgotten to complete the first part of the process before security were able to use the kiosks adjacent to the staffed counters. Meanwhile, the rest of us lined up for our turn.
Of course, there was another lineup to reach the counter. Those that had forgotten to complete the first part of the process before security were able to use the kiosks adjacent to the staffed counters. Meanwhile, the rest of us lined up for our turn.
Cash refunds could be received in Japanese Yen (JPY), US Dollars (USD), Korean Won (KRW), or Chinese Yuan (RMB). I requested USD on the basis of ease of conversion once I returned home, but received an odd mishmash of US and Korean bills. When I inquired of this result, the staff member did not even gaze up and pointed towards a sign taped to the counter in disgusted manner.
"Next!" she then called out, coercing my reluctant departure.
"Next!" she then called out, coercing my reluctant departure.
I wasn't sure what to do with the excess KRW, and neither was my browsing partner. We tucked the envelopes away before scanning the vicinity for a bathroom to cleanse our hands of the grimy bills.
It wasn't my first time at Incheon's international departure terminal, but I was admittedly surprised at the overwhelming number of brand name outlets, yet not a single relatable snack outpost.
Korea has always been at the forefront of new technology and an LED screen notifying users of occupied stalls was a helpful, innovative addition. It was positioned in the entryway and identified stall occupancy akin to vacancies within parking garages with green or orange indicators.
I had been eager to procure one more box of KANU Americano before departing. When Lotte Mart was too busy the night before and 7-Eleven appeared somewhat pricey, I delayed the mission until the final minutes before boarding. The latter had been a poorly informed choice, for the only GS25 was located at the far end of the terminal, essentially a ten-minute sprint from our gate.
Ultimately, I succeeded in procuring the goods, however the price was steeper for a more compact version, termed "KANU Mini".
Although my browsing partner had been advised I could undertake the mission solo, I was joined either way, albeit at a much slower pace. We passed a few eateries and indoor smoking room (?) on our way back, eventually plopping ourselves down in a designated seating area. Remnants from my jokbal lunch were hurriedly consumed in the ten minutes preceding boarding time.
Ultimately, I succeeded in procuring the goods, however the price was steeper for a more compact version, termed "KANU Mini".
Although my browsing partner had been advised I could undertake the mission solo, I was joined either way, albeit at a much slower pace. We passed a few eateries and indoor smoking room (?) on our way back, eventually plopping ourselves down in a designated seating area. Remnants from my jokbal lunch were hurriedly consumed in the ten minutes preceding boarding time.
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I made my way over to the lineup as soon as the announcement was heard overhead.
"Zone 2?" A man approached me in English.
"Yep." I responded with a nod.
"Great!"
As more English-speakers (native and non-native) gathered about the gate entrance, I knew it was time to head home - home to the land of diversity, devoid of language barriers.
"Zone 2?" A man approached me in English.
"Yep." I responded with a nod.
"Great!"
As more English-speakers (native and non-native) gathered about the gate entrance, I knew it was time to head home - home to the land of diversity, devoid of language barriers.
Choices of orange or sparking water were offered in plastic cups after boarding.
Some time later after takeoff, dinner was served. Meal pre-orders had been unavailable for this flight; by the time I was inquired of my preferences, the braised beef was out of stock. A non-spicy chicken alternative was offered instead.
The chicken and penne were tasty, though not particularly memorable.
Undressed greens were a tremendous relief to behold, for it seemed that leafy greens were a rarity in Korea.
Without a doubt, the Passion Fruit and Coconut Cheesecake was the highlight of the meal.
Undressed greens were a tremendous relief to behold, for it seemed that leafy greens were a rarity in Korea.
Without a doubt, the Passion Fruit and Coconut Cheesecake was the highlight of the meal.
Contrary to the inbound flight, where I had hurled for the final five hours of flying, I was equipped with anti-motion sickness medication this time around. As a result, a restful sleep awaited me. Between continuous periods of slumber and finishing the last few episodes of The Witch, the journey flew by - no pun intended - in the blink of an eye.
I awoke to breakfast in disposable containers and dreary, overcast conditions at Toronto Pearson.
My face continued to throb from the pain of mole removal, but I was well-rested and ready to return home.
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The emergence of my browsing partner's friend, with Turtle Chips in tow and GOT7 playing in the car, was definitely a welcome surprise!
Afterword
1) Weather
Climate conditions varied drastically between “mainland” Korea and Jeju, unsurprisingly given the amount of development in each region. It is also worth noting that Seoul offers a drastic difference in landscape, likely on the opposite end of the spectrum from Jeju in terms of infrastructure and building density/height.
Travelling in the second and third weeks of March was a gamble weather-wise. This period had been chosen for a handful of reasons:
Days in Seoul were reminiscent of the West Coast: perfect and brisk in the morning, warm in the early afternoon, sweltering in the middle of the day, then snippy in the evening with the disappearance of the sun.
On the other hand, Jeju was utterly unpredictable. Landing in Jeju city, we experienced humid conditions akin to a tropical storm – complete with swaying palm trees. Rainfall levels fluctuated across the island, with more ponding observed outside the city, simply due to the roads being unpaved. For the vast majority of our stay, both Jeju (beyond the city limits) and Seogwipo boasted incredulous winds. In fact, a series of wind warnings had been issued on the second evening of our arrival, with the Ministry ordering all residents to remain indoors.
Jeju leaned on the cooler side, but grew ridiculously frigid with the impact of windchill. Single digits easily dropped to the low negatives once paired with ruthless winds. The entire nation was also taken back when snow descended unexpectedly. Areas experiencing a light layer would be reinstated within a matter of hours, however areas of higher elevation would see persistent depths ranging from one to five inches.
Daytime hours welcomed warmth from the sun, moderating the impacts of snow. That said, winter accessories of hats, gloves, and scarves were non-negotiable at any time of day.
Climate conditions varied drastically between “mainland” Korea and Jeju, unsurprisingly given the amount of development in each region. It is also worth noting that Seoul offers a drastic difference in landscape, likely on the opposite end of the spectrum from Jeju in terms of infrastructure and building density/height.
Travelling in the second and third weeks of March was a gamble weather-wise. This period had been chosen for a handful of reasons:
- To not overlap with Lunar New Year (price consideration)
- To precede peak cherry blossom season (price consideration) but potentially catch buds
- To enable outdoor exploration without fear of discomfort due to heat
Days in Seoul were reminiscent of the West Coast: perfect and brisk in the morning, warm in the early afternoon, sweltering in the middle of the day, then snippy in the evening with the disappearance of the sun.
On the other hand, Jeju was utterly unpredictable. Landing in Jeju city, we experienced humid conditions akin to a tropical storm – complete with swaying palm trees. Rainfall levels fluctuated across the island, with more ponding observed outside the city, simply due to the roads being unpaved. For the vast majority of our stay, both Jeju (beyond the city limits) and Seogwipo boasted incredulous winds. In fact, a series of wind warnings had been issued on the second evening of our arrival, with the Ministry ordering all residents to remain indoors.
Jeju leaned on the cooler side, but grew ridiculously frigid with the impact of windchill. Single digits easily dropped to the low negatives once paired with ruthless winds. The entire nation was also taken back when snow descended unexpectedly. Areas experiencing a light layer would be reinstated within a matter of hours, however areas of higher elevation would see persistent depths ranging from one to five inches.
Daytime hours welcomed warmth from the sun, moderating the impacts of snow. That said, winter accessories of hats, gloves, and scarves were non-negotiable at any time of day.
2) Mobility
While Seoul and Jeju can vary mildly to majorly in terms of weather, navigating each district has persistently prominent differences. Seoul can be described as a bustling urban centre, while Jeju a tranquil, nature-forward getaway. Each offered a road and transit network to reflect their unique qualities.
Seoul
a) Transit
Densely populated cities turn to mass transit to move their residents, for the road network would simply be plagued if maintaining a 1:1 vehicle to resident ratio. Besides the Seoul Metro (subway) and bus systems, the network is also supported by AREX (Airport Railway trains) for trips between Incheon Terminal 1 and Seoul Station, Airport Limousines (buses that are priced at a premium for airport service), and GTX/KTX for high-speed regional travel in and out of Seoul from Busan, Mokpo, and Gangneung. Suffice to say, the city is served by plenty of at-grade and below-grade options to keep its residents moving. Of course, rush hour is not to be underestimated, since the high frequency of subway trains does not completely resolve issues of congestion during weekday evening travel.
While Seoul and Jeju can vary mildly to majorly in terms of weather, navigating each district has persistently prominent differences. Seoul can be described as a bustling urban centre, while Jeju a tranquil, nature-forward getaway. Each offered a road and transit network to reflect their unique qualities.
Seoul
a) Transit
Densely populated cities turn to mass transit to move their residents, for the road network would simply be plagued if maintaining a 1:1 vehicle to resident ratio. Besides the Seoul Metro (subway) and bus systems, the network is also supported by AREX (Airport Railway trains) for trips between Incheon Terminal 1 and Seoul Station, Airport Limousines (buses that are priced at a premium for airport service), and GTX/KTX for high-speed regional travel in and out of Seoul from Busan, Mokpo, and Gangneung. Suffice to say, the city is served by plenty of at-grade and below-grade options to keep its residents moving. Of course, rush hour is not to be underestimated, since the high frequency of subway trains does not completely resolve issues of congestion during weekday evening travel.
b) Bus
On our first full day in Korea, we exclusively used the bus system to travel between Seoul Station, N Seoul Tower, and Gyeongbokgung Palace. The bus network enabled a near-seamless connection with minimal walking between stops, though paled in terms of efficiency due to the need for all buses to adhere to the arterials. In essence, an otherwise direct east-west path between N Seoul Tower and Seoul Station was not possible, and would instead require a detour northbound towards Gyeongbokgung Palace, then south towards Seoul Station.
We continued either on foot for most of the day, then took an Uber to the base of N Seoul Tower. When heading back to the hotel, we boarded a night bus, which adopted an interesting sliding door format as witnessed in a handful of melo K-Pop MVs.
c) Taxis
Taxis were decently foreigner-friendly, and both Uber Taxi and Kakao Taxi could be hailed using the Uber app. A separate, Korea-only app was not required. Uber Taxi was evidently geared towards foreigners, with more premium interiors and English signage. Kakao Taxi drivers appeared to predominantly serve local customers; they were gruff in comparison with less pristine vehicles.
On our first full day in Korea, we exclusively used the bus system to travel between Seoul Station, N Seoul Tower, and Gyeongbokgung Palace. The bus network enabled a near-seamless connection with minimal walking between stops, though paled in terms of efficiency due to the need for all buses to adhere to the arterials. In essence, an otherwise direct east-west path between N Seoul Tower and Seoul Station was not possible, and would instead require a detour northbound towards Gyeongbokgung Palace, then south towards Seoul Station.
We continued either on foot for most of the day, then took an Uber to the base of N Seoul Tower. When heading back to the hotel, we boarded a night bus, which adopted an interesting sliding door format as witnessed in a handful of melo K-Pop MVs.
c) Taxis
Taxis were decently foreigner-friendly, and both Uber Taxi and Kakao Taxi could be hailed using the Uber app. A separate, Korea-only app was not required. Uber Taxi was evidently geared towards foreigners, with more premium interiors and English signage. Kakao Taxi drivers appeared to predominantly serve local customers; they were gruff in comparison with less pristine vehicles.
Source: Seoul Metro, 2025
d) Subway
Amusingly, the second half of our trip was conducted exclusively via subway. Besides taking Uber to and from Guro to appease our luggage wielding concerns, we travelled between Guro, Hongdae, Ichon, and Gangnam on Lines 1, 2, 4, and 9. Lines 1 and 9 (I think) operated at-grade using the KORAIL tracks, while Lines 2 and 4 were predominantly underground as part of the Seoul Metro network. It was worth noting that these Lines utilized different station formats and passenger cars. Some have LED strips near the door to indicate door of egress (Line 2, City Hall station), while some have indicator screens that have arrows to point of direction of egress.
Amusingly, the second half of our trip was conducted exclusively via subway. Besides taking Uber to and from Guro to appease our luggage wielding concerns, we travelled between Guro, Hongdae, Ichon, and Gangnam on Lines 1, 2, 4, and 9. Lines 1 and 9 (I think) operated at-grade using the KORAIL tracks, while Lines 2 and 4 were predominantly underground as part of the Seoul Metro network. It was worth noting that these Lines utilized different station formats and passenger cars. Some have LED strips near the door to indicate door of egress (Line 2, City Hall station), while some have indicator screens that have arrows to point of direction of egress.
Transit Card
For starters, there was more than a transit card. T-Money was the most widely accepted card, however a handful of tourism videos also mentioned the Climate Card. Further investigations confirmed that T-Money was accepted throughout the nation, but the Climate Card was limited to use in Seoul with a handful of other restrictions. It is worth noting that the Climate Card was time-based, allowing unlimited rides across 1-day, 2-day, 7-day, or 30-day periods, while T-Money operated similar to PRESTO with a loaded value.
But that wasn’t all! Both cards could be purchased as standalone cards or acquired as part of various tourism packages. The incredulous number of options simply made for even more complicated calculations.
Delving into the tourism packages, I discovered the WOWPASS, Discover Seoul Pass, and Korea Tour Card (now obsolete).
WOWPASS supported the functions of a debit card in addition to a T-Money card. The debit card function was restricted to WOWPASS kiosks. While seemingly easy to located via the in-app map, their precise coordinates were outrageously difficult to pinpoint in areas like hotels and major transit stations. Accessing the T-Money functions would be a separate process, exclusive to the T-Money kiosks within subway stations.
The biggest benefit of the WOWPASS was not the built-in transit function though, but the ability to exchange various currencies into KRW at a better exchange rate. WOWPASS machines accepted CAD in $50 bills only, and so I obtained my spending funds in fifties. This is an important factor to consider prior to travelling, as one would be unable to use the WOWPASS machine otherwise.
WOWPASS also provided an insignificant amount of cashback at certain retailers – think 2% for every $10 spent at Daiso. The vendor list was limited, with the only decent find being Innisfree, where you could unlock a bonus 5% off by paying with WOWPASS funds. However, loading the WOWPASS was hardly justified, as credit card fees were double the potential benefit at 10%. Essentially, the only way to take advantage of the WOWPASS was to pre-calculate the amount to be spent, bring cash in one’s home currency (subject to bill restrictions) corresponding to that amount, and load the funds onto the WOWPASS in advance of undertaking a shopping spree. In reality, this is hardly feasible for vacations. Also note that any refunds (cash withdrawals) from an unused WOWPASS balance would incur a fee and be able to be withdrawn in KRW only. There was also a threshold amount before withdrawal could be enabled.
Suffice to say, the multitude of obstacles made this card a challenge to apply strategically.
The Discover Seoul Pass was a tourism pass that included a separate T-Money card for transit functions. Unlike the WOWPASS, the Discover Seoul Pass operated independently of the T-Money card, merely serving to provide free or discounted admission to tourist destinations. Given that the extremely costly Discover Seoul Pass was timed (24 hours (now obsolete), 48 hours, 72 hours, or 120 hours), this option was also unfeasible as we would be unable to recover the value of the pass unless we rushed through every single exhibit.
All factors considered, the T-Money remained the most inclusive option for travelling around Korea. That said, the Climate Card is the superior option for buses and subways in Seoul, especially if one does not intend to take transit in other regions (Busan, Jeju, etc.).
Please note that, in order for transfers within the transfer window to be registered, one was required to tap on AND off for both buses and subways to prevent being charged double fares. I certainly made this mistake the first time around.
Travel Time and Efficiency
For the most part, our trips were lengthier than expected. Stations that appeared close on the metro map were, in fact, not close at all. Transferring between subway stations was another travesty altogether signage was deficient and underground pathways utterly confusing. Worst of all, numbers were used to identify both egress points (ie. Exit 7) and subway lines. Navigating between platforms could easily take upwards of 15 minutes, and that was assuming one did lose his or her path along the way. Naver Maps’ GPS was disgustingly faulty and often worsened the issue at hand.
In summary:
| Pros
| Cons
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Jeju
a) Transit
The abundance of research undertaken leading up to the trip confirmed that buses mainly operated within Jeju City, with any other connections around Hallasan to be infrequent and require double or triple the travel time. Renting a car was the unanimous choice of all visitors, domestic or international, and we did the same. In other words, I cannot extend commentary on Jeju transit as I had only observed the buses (and their perpetually vacant shelters) from afar.
b) Driving
As mentioned above, renting a car for our time on the island was ultimately the best choice. For this option, obtaining an International Driving Permit (IDP) is mandatory.
A variety of rental options could be accessed from the airport via shuttles. The drop-off point would remain the same when dropping off the car for the return. The total cost of a five-day rental was merely $250 CAD!
It is important to note that, for the purposes of returning the rental car, one must allow a decent buffer time to account for shuttle (in)frequency between the rental establishment and airport terminal.
The island could be traversed along its perimeter or using internal roads the circumscribed Hallasan. During daytime hours, the former provided the most scenic view, but sundown would result in poorly illuminated pathways that safety was threatened. The latter, being larger roads, were supported by streetlights to preserve visibility at night.
Speed limits were extremely low, ranging from 30 km/h to 50 km/h. Thus, while Jeju wasn’t particularly expansive, it was a slow process to get around the island simply due to such speed restrictions.
Geometric design of the roads was interesting: With medians installed throughout, most access points operated as right-in/right-out driveways. Intersections permitting left turns had signage positioned near the signal head, either informing of protected/unprotected left turns or advising whether U-turns were possible.
My Korean vocabulary was not extensive enough to decipher road signs in passing, but my browsing partner later searched up the various forms of the left turn signage.
All of the internal were neatly maintained, with smooth asphalt and distinct pavement markings. Some cross-sections boasted multi-use paths paved with red asphalt, though it didn’t prevent agricultural vehicles from using the space as lay-by parking at times.
Rural roads were, as expected, rural. Narrow, unpaved dirt trails bordered by Jeju lava rock borders weren’t uncommon along the northwest and west sections of the island. For those familiar with driving in suburban and partially rural areas, these roads did not pose much difficulty. That said, inexperienced or infrequent drivers should beware that these farm conditions exist.
a) Transit
The abundance of research undertaken leading up to the trip confirmed that buses mainly operated within Jeju City, with any other connections around Hallasan to be infrequent and require double or triple the travel time. Renting a car was the unanimous choice of all visitors, domestic or international, and we did the same. In other words, I cannot extend commentary on Jeju transit as I had only observed the buses (and their perpetually vacant shelters) from afar.
b) Driving
As mentioned above, renting a car for our time on the island was ultimately the best choice. For this option, obtaining an International Driving Permit (IDP) is mandatory.
A variety of rental options could be accessed from the airport via shuttles. The drop-off point would remain the same when dropping off the car for the return. The total cost of a five-day rental was merely $250 CAD!
It is important to note that, for the purposes of returning the rental car, one must allow a decent buffer time to account for shuttle (in)frequency between the rental establishment and airport terminal.
The island could be traversed along its perimeter or using internal roads the circumscribed Hallasan. During daytime hours, the former provided the most scenic view, but sundown would result in poorly illuminated pathways that safety was threatened. The latter, being larger roads, were supported by streetlights to preserve visibility at night.
Speed limits were extremely low, ranging from 30 km/h to 50 km/h. Thus, while Jeju wasn’t particularly expansive, it was a slow process to get around the island simply due to such speed restrictions.
Geometric design of the roads was interesting: With medians installed throughout, most access points operated as right-in/right-out driveways. Intersections permitting left turns had signage positioned near the signal head, either informing of protected/unprotected left turns or advising whether U-turns were possible.
My Korean vocabulary was not extensive enough to decipher road signs in passing, but my browsing partner later searched up the various forms of the left turn signage.
All of the internal were neatly maintained, with smooth asphalt and distinct pavement markings. Some cross-sections boasted multi-use paths paved with red asphalt, though it didn’t prevent agricultural vehicles from using the space as lay-by parking at times.
Rural roads were, as expected, rural. Narrow, unpaved dirt trails bordered by Jeju lava rock borders weren’t uncommon along the northwest and west sections of the island. For those familiar with driving in suburban and partially rural areas, these roads did not pose much difficulty. That said, inexperienced or infrequent drivers should beware that these farm conditions exist.
| Pros
| Cons
|
3) Navigation
It’s been a longtime fact that Google Maps does not function in Korea. Locals gravitate towards Naver Maps or Kakao Maps instead, but my personal experiences have proven Naver Maps a despicable system.
Besides inconsistent search results, a lack of opening hours, and failure to provide up-to-date destination details, we relied on Google Maps for most of our searches, then cross-referenced when needed. Thankfully, the Jeju rental car featured a modern, built-in GPS system superior to Naver Maps that simultaneously synced with Android Auto.
It’s been a longtime fact that Google Maps does not function in Korea. Locals gravitate towards Naver Maps or Kakao Maps instead, but my personal experiences have proven Naver Maps a despicable system.
Besides inconsistent search results, a lack of opening hours, and failure to provide up-to-date destination details, we relied on Google Maps for most of our searches, then cross-referenced when needed. Thankfully, the Jeju rental car featured a modern, built-in GPS system superior to Naver Maps that simultaneously synced with Android Auto.
4) Infrastructure
From the perspective of a tourist, Korea selectively investing in different aspects of infrastructure to support their growth.
a) Lighting
Despite arriving in the heart of the city, Seoul was rather dim at night. There was an obvious deficiency of streetlights even outside Seoul Station, the busiest transit hub in the city.
The exterior was pitch black when we boarded the AREX. It was also difficult to see outside in the N Seoul cable car and subway cars at night. Unlike Toronto, Seoul really wasn’t that pretty at night.
b) Sewer System
Countless street interviews had shown foreigners commenting on the revolting sewer smells lingering in the alleyways of Seoul. With my visit, I could finally confirm their declarations.
The sanitary sewer system is likely undersized for the country’s rapid growth over the past two decades. Instead of installing sewer upgrades in advance of constructing new developments though, the Korean population have taken to, admittedly disgusting, workarounds instead: Toilet paper being tossed into wastebins instead of being flushed.
Behind each stall door was signage advising users of the expected procedure. While large commercial developments such as Lotte Mall supported standard flushing, there remained a decent handful that directed toilet paper to be disposed into a nearby bin. The directions, in turn, led to overflowing wastebins brimming with soiled toilet paper carrying human discharge. Wet wipes were also not to be flushed down the toilet, despite being labelled as being flushable.
My fellow Canadian-turned-Seoulite explained the cause being due to “old pipes”, but this was hardly an excuse in my books. Failing to ensure sufficient servicing capacity was a breach of responsibility by municipal authorities and a staggering concern, should you ask me.
Public Bathrooms
At the very least, public bathrooms are prevalent. Unlike in the GTA, one never needs to fear whether a bathroom will be available. More importantly, they are clean and well maintained, even in industrial areas where I expected indoor plumbing facilities to be nonexistent or repulsive. The sole exception was Hongdae, which was clearly tainted by a high volume of foreigners and neglected by uncaring, minimum wage staff.
Older subway stations have a mix of Western toilets and traditional squat toilets. Some stalls were even labelled for children due to being smaller. Accessible washrooms were available in tourist areas, such as N Seoul Tower or department stores, usually separate from the standard-sized stalls.
5) Accessibility
- As mentioned above, accessible washrooms, if available, were provided separately from the rest of the stalls and usually in within the nearby corridor.
- There is a never-ending network of tactile strips within subway stations. While this is great for wayfinding, the raised strips were horribly annoying when transporting luggage.
- Elevators were available in both subway stations and airports, but often hard to locate. They also operated slowly, sometimes going all the way to the bottom-most level before changing direction. Most commuters, being impatient by nature, opted to walk if not carrying weighty baggage.
- Hotel elevators have accessibility buttons installed at a lower level, however they do not always function well (buttons do not stay pressed).
- As noted earlier, certain subway cars have LED strips installed near the door for ease of identifying the direction of egress. Occasionally, crosswalks with tactile plates also featured LED strips behind the depressed curbs. These strips would illuminate either red or green depending on the pedestrian crossing signal. I had initially believed this to be a safety and accessibility feature, though my fellow Canadian-turned-Seoulite noted that the measure targeted young people staring at their phones with headphones in.
6) Water Stations
Within airports and tourism destinations, water dispensers (some featuring hot and cold water) could be found easily, usually supported by flimsy paper cups that could cut one's lips if not careful.
Public fountains and water refill stations weren’t particularly common. Besides the National Museum of Korea and select washroom corridors within Lotte Mall, I barely saw any water refill stations. This is presumed to be a consequence of most Koreans heading towards cafés for their hydration needs.
Within airports and tourism destinations, water dispensers (some featuring hot and cold water) could be found easily, usually supported by flimsy paper cups that could cut one's lips if not careful.
Public fountains and water refill stations weren’t particularly common. Besides the National Museum of Korea and select washroom corridors within Lotte Mall, I barely saw any water refill stations. This is presumed to be a consequence of most Koreans heading towards cafés for their hydration needs.
7) Sustainability
In more ways than one, Korea was a hypocrite when it came to incorporating sustainable measures into their daily routine.
My observations included:
- Sorting recycling was a big deal, but organics did not obtain their own sorting vessel and were simply tossed with landfill garbage.
- Garbage bins were removed from city streets to minimize littering, encouraging trash to be carried to a nearby subway station or brought home for disposal. Exceptions included: Hongdae (with overflowing bins) and Myeongdong, where there were dedicated disposal units for collecting wooden skewers and street food trays. The latter was, admittedly, quite admirable and should be contemplated for GTA’s countless outdoor summer markets.
- Reusable cups were mandated for dine-in customers, but I was informed that staff would not hesitate to waste a cup if the drink was requested to be taken to go after being chosen for on-site consumption.
- Neither hotel in Seoul provided disposable razors, toothbrushes, or toothpaste, but room slippers and water bottles were reliably supplied. Frankly, water was of utmost priority; the former was negligible, since most hotels do not reliably provide those items anyway.
- A shift towards the digital realm and mobile apps to minimize the need for paper, yet T-Money remained a card and not an app.
- Bags were not provided at the most popular tourist shopping destinations in Seoul (Myeongdong and Hongdae), but plastic bags were still frequently provided at no charge in comparatively suburban areas (Guro and Gimpo). In addition, there remained plenty of plastic packaging for clothes (XEXYMIX, The North Face) and accessories (NYU NYU).
At the very least, Jeju was relatively sustainable compared to Seoul, often defaulting to ceramic or glass drinkware and eliminating single-use containers and cups altogether. Plastic packaging was prevalent in any and all convenience stores though.
8) Tourism
Apparent in my trip research and later confirmed on site, the Korean government had invested a tremendous amount into the tourism industry. The sum enabled countless initiatives by the respective federal agency, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism – alternatively known as MCST). Among these initiatives were the aforementioned Korea Tour Card (now obsolete) and Discover Seoul passes.
Source: Discover Seoul Pass, 2025
My Canadian expat provided further details, noting that Korea had not experienced the current wave of tourists and working holiday personalities until recent years and that the government had spent a good deal in implementing English signage throughout the busiest districts in Seoul. She also mentioned how locals were not accustomed to foreigners knowing of the Korean language or even possessing decent speaking and comprehensive abilities. Frankly, I wasn’t sure whether the tone was positive, negative, or neutral, however I’d personally find cultural appropriation and desires to acquaint oneself with another’s culture to be respectable.
a) Museums
Having left the strongest impression on both my browsing partner and I were the museums. Despite both of us harnessing fondness for distinctly different topics, the museums in Seoul and Jeju were a sheer delight to visit – the true definition of “There is something for everyone”.
Besides being curated exceptionally, admission was either free or very inexpensive. They were also expansive, with seemingly ceaseless areas to uncover (sometimes both indoor and outdoor!), and boasted unique exhibits that incorporated modern-day technology to enhance interaction and convey educational values at a deeper level.
The spectrum of museums available was another noteworthy element of the nation, for there were facilities dedicated to anything from chocolate, coffee, and figures in Jeju to Hangul, war, money, space, and various forms of art in Seoul.
Having left the strongest impression on both my browsing partner and I were the museums. Despite both of us harnessing fondness for distinctly different topics, the museums in Seoul and Jeju were a sheer delight to visit – the true definition of “There is something for everyone”.
Besides being curated exceptionally, admission was either free or very inexpensive. They were also expansive, with seemingly ceaseless areas to uncover (sometimes both indoor and outdoor!), and boasted unique exhibits that incorporated modern-day technology to enhance interaction and convey educational values at a deeper level.
The spectrum of museums available was another noteworthy element of the nation, for there were facilities dedicated to anything from chocolate, coffee, and figures in Jeju to Hangul, war, money, space, and various forms of art in Seoul.
b) Nature Attractions
Consistent with museums, nature attractions in Jeju had also been easily accessible with reasonable prices for admission. One could easily spend several hours roaming a scenic landmark and its nearby connecting trails. The availability of indoor plumbing facilities was another welcome addition, for the same cannot be said about popular GTA hiking destinations managed by conservation agencies or the federal and provincial levels of government. Even port-a-potties were seldom seen – and a risk at that, since handwashing, toilet paper, and basic hygiene weren’t guaranteed.
Aside from bathrooms being available and clean, we also appreciated how visitors were disciplined and respectful of others sharing the space. Overcrowding and trespassing for photos have become second to normal in areas near Brampton and Scarborough, so it was a breath of fresh air to be relieved of such observations.
c) Advertisting
Seoul
In terms of advertising, I would presume those in English are catered towards foreigners, while those in Korean with recognizable celebrities are intended to influence the Korean general public. Popular sightings were: Karina (Sprite, Caffe Pascucci), Byun Wooseok (Kyochon Chicken, OLENS, Ediya Coffee, and more), Jang Wonyoung (More), Cha Eunwoo (The North Face, Shinhan Bank, Ricola), V (Compose Coffee), NewJeans (Korea Tourism, LINE Friends).
Those with local popularity could be identified with Korean brands, while those with global popularity (NewJeans) were associated with areas of high foreign traffic (ie. Incheon Airport or LINE Friends).
The heavy dependence on celebrities acting as brand ambassadors is both impactful yet dangerous, given that a brand's image becomes closely linked with that celebrity, and any scandals will cause harm to both entities. Frankly, the placing of a celebrity on a pedestal garners more interest in the person rather than the brand itself, for many times I was able to identify the colour of the ad and its spokesperson, but gained no information about the brand itself. LED Pillars placed within COEX mall also served the similar purpose of advertising, however the maze of a mall would benefit greatly with more information screens for wayfinding.
It was also confirmed firsthand that Korean media can, indeed, block you should they desire. LESSERAFIM had released a song that was all over my feed upon my return, yet I heard nothing about it at all during my stay.
Consistent with museums, nature attractions in Jeju had also been easily accessible with reasonable prices for admission. One could easily spend several hours roaming a scenic landmark and its nearby connecting trails. The availability of indoor plumbing facilities was another welcome addition, for the same cannot be said about popular GTA hiking destinations managed by conservation agencies or the federal and provincial levels of government. Even port-a-potties were seldom seen – and a risk at that, since handwashing, toilet paper, and basic hygiene weren’t guaranteed.
Aside from bathrooms being available and clean, we also appreciated how visitors were disciplined and respectful of others sharing the space. Overcrowding and trespassing for photos have become second to normal in areas near Brampton and Scarborough, so it was a breath of fresh air to be relieved of such observations.
c) Advertisting
Seoul
In terms of advertising, I would presume those in English are catered towards foreigners, while those in Korean with recognizable celebrities are intended to influence the Korean general public. Popular sightings were: Karina (Sprite, Caffe Pascucci), Byun Wooseok (Kyochon Chicken, OLENS, Ediya Coffee, and more), Jang Wonyoung (More), Cha Eunwoo (The North Face, Shinhan Bank, Ricola), V (Compose Coffee), NewJeans (Korea Tourism, LINE Friends).
Those with local popularity could be identified with Korean brands, while those with global popularity (NewJeans) were associated with areas of high foreign traffic (ie. Incheon Airport or LINE Friends).
The heavy dependence on celebrities acting as brand ambassadors is both impactful yet dangerous, given that a brand's image becomes closely linked with that celebrity, and any scandals will cause harm to both entities. Frankly, the placing of a celebrity on a pedestal garners more interest in the person rather than the brand itself, for many times I was able to identify the colour of the ad and its spokesperson, but gained no information about the brand itself. LED Pillars placed within COEX mall also served the similar purpose of advertising, however the maze of a mall would benefit greatly with more information screens for wayfinding.
It was also confirmed firsthand that Korean media can, indeed, block you should they desire. LESSERAFIM had released a song that was all over my feed upon my return, yet I heard nothing about it at all during my stay.
9) Shopping
True to the declarations of all East Asian travellers, Korea was indeed the best place for shopping. It goes without saying the Korean beauty products were substantially cheaper in their country of origin compared to post-import fees in Canada. Beyond cosmetics though, I was also overjoyed to find great quality apparel and jewellery below my expected price points. Clothing with a decent thread count was found to be about half the price as back home, while beauty products at a whopping one third of the prices to which I’ve been accustomed.
With that said, it is important to be mindful of the stores in which clothing are purchased. Booths near subway stations and standalone boutiques in tourist-heavy areas like Hongdae are known for fast fashion: trendy clothing that may go out of rotation quickly, thus compromising quality to keep prices low. Seeing that I was mainly looking for office-appropriate attire, I adhered to “proper” vendors within Lotte Mall and flagships stores in Myeongdong.
a) Beauty
Plastic surgery and beauty procedures are topics that cannot be neglected when travelling to Korea. The renowned plastic surgery hotspot of Gangnam lived up to its name with clinics around every corner.
I took advantage of my short-lived stay to book procedures of hair removal + brightening and mole removal. The process was speedy as could be and extremely budget-friendly compared to back home, but service levels and customer interactions paled drastically in comparison. Asking plenty of questions for clarity and readying oneself for the hurried nature of “factory clinics” was crucial to making the most of the treatments. The clinics do not provide all the necessary information for clients to prepare accordingly, nor do they consider the impacts on a customer’s daily life and other schedules following the treatment. Price-wise, I have no gripes; a medical tax refund can be claimed in addition to the lower bill total.
While I would return for more treatments in a heartbeat (due to price and efficacy), it is pivotal to read plenty of user reviews to properly prepare and ensure adequate buffer periods before and after the treatment.
b) Payment Types
In a nation where the use of AI is widespread and unapologetic, Koreans have also been amongst the first to adopt biometric-based payment (outside of mobile wallets). The feature makes for quick and convenient payments, but demands a high degree of consumer awareness in the face of increased risk of monetary and identity theft. Such features are irrelevant to tourists, as we made our purchases in either card or cash.
Cash
My balance of $200 CAD from home was converted to 195,000 KRW at the WOWPASS machine. At the end of the trip, roughly $43,300 KRW remained; thus, about $151,700 had been used for T-Money reloads, neighbourhood markets, and instances wherein my fx-fee-free card had been denied.
As for the precise amount of funds left on my WOWPASS T-Money card, I cannot be certain as I misplaced the card after returning. Regardless, I can confidently conclude that transit fares assumed a higher percentage of spendings than anticipated.
Card
Majority of GTA vendors are now equipped to take payment via mobile wallets, such as Google Wallet, Samsung Wallet/Samsung Pay, or Apple Pay. However, Korea lags behind in this department as Samsung Wallet is the exclusive option for mobile wallet payments. Approximately 80% of retailers continue to require payment via the physical chip card, automatically declining the mobile wallet card. Furthering the hassle, signatures were required for transactions over $50. Mastercard was also confirmed to have a higher decline rate (being denied or unrecognized) compared to Visa.
My balance of $200 CAD from home was converted to 195,000 KRW at the WOWPASS machine. At the end of the trip, roughly $43,300 KRW remained; thus, about $151,700 had been used for T-Money reloads, neighbourhood markets, and instances wherein my fx-fee-free card had been denied.
As for the precise amount of funds left on my WOWPASS T-Money card, I cannot be certain as I misplaced the card after returning. Regardless, I can confidently conclude that transit fares assumed a higher percentage of spendings than anticipated.
Card
Majority of GTA vendors are now equipped to take payment via mobile wallets, such as Google Wallet, Samsung Wallet/Samsung Pay, or Apple Pay. However, Korea lags behind in this department as Samsung Wallet is the exclusive option for mobile wallet payments. Approximately 80% of retailers continue to require payment via the physical chip card, automatically declining the mobile wallet card. Furthering the hassle, signatures were required for transactions over $50. Mastercard was also confirmed to have a higher decline rate (being denied or unrecognized) compared to Visa.
c) Operating Hour Restrictions
Store hours are strange. Most businesses and markets are closed on Sunday, making it the least preferential day of the week for exploration. The remark applies to hotels as well, for The Link’s in-house The Zag bakery received no shipment of bread due to supposedly lower traffic on weekends.
Cafés tend to open late (12 PM or after), while restaurants have a tendency to cease operations around 8 PM. For late diners, one must be vigilant about such operating periods as sustenance options after 9 PM are usually restricted to: convenience stores, bars, or grocery stores (if lucky).
d) Retail Initiatives
Luggage storage to incite shopping was not uncommon. That said, luggage storage options at subway stations were far pricier than those of department stores and malls. Businesses had evidently begun to offer these self-serve lockers to encourage spending.
e) Tax Refund
As depicted earlier, tax refunds are divided into two categories: Instant vs. Reimbursement.
Instant
Instant tax refunds are the singly best option for tourists, for the refund amount is determined on the spot and deducted prior to payment. Instant refunds impose incentives for spending on the spot, as it eliminates the trouble of receipt-sorting and elaborate administrative process later during the trip. Not all retailers offer this service, but it is advised to always bring one’s passport to take advantage of the opportunity as it arises.
Reimbursement
Those seeking tax refund reimbursements must ensure sufficient time to undertake this two-step process at the airport. With at least five different tax refund issuing companies, it can be difficult to find a compatible machine while out and about shopping. The airport kiosks pledge compatibility with all tax refund issuing companies, but constitutes a painstaking process in which reimbursements are credited in cash – mixed currency to boot! – and require queuing several times.
Store hours are strange. Most businesses and markets are closed on Sunday, making it the least preferential day of the week for exploration. The remark applies to hotels as well, for The Link’s in-house The Zag bakery received no shipment of bread due to supposedly lower traffic on weekends.
Cafés tend to open late (12 PM or after), while restaurants have a tendency to cease operations around 8 PM. For late diners, one must be vigilant about such operating periods as sustenance options after 9 PM are usually restricted to: convenience stores, bars, or grocery stores (if lucky).
d) Retail Initiatives
Luggage storage to incite shopping was not uncommon. That said, luggage storage options at subway stations were far pricier than those of department stores and malls. Businesses had evidently begun to offer these self-serve lockers to encourage spending.
e) Tax Refund
As depicted earlier, tax refunds are divided into two categories: Instant vs. Reimbursement.
Instant
Instant tax refunds are the singly best option for tourists, for the refund amount is determined on the spot and deducted prior to payment. Instant refunds impose incentives for spending on the spot, as it eliminates the trouble of receipt-sorting and elaborate administrative process later during the trip. Not all retailers offer this service, but it is advised to always bring one’s passport to take advantage of the opportunity as it arises.
Reimbursement
Those seeking tax refund reimbursements must ensure sufficient time to undertake this two-step process at the airport. With at least five different tax refund issuing companies, it can be difficult to find a compatible machine while out and about shopping. The airport kiosks pledge compatibility with all tax refund issuing companies, but constitutes a painstaking process in which reimbursements are credited in cash – mixed currency to boot! – and require queuing several times.
f) Things to Buy
| Things to buy more of next time:
| Things to skip:
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10) Airports: ICN, GMP, and CJU
a) Incheon Airport (ICN)
- ICN caters mainly to Koreans bound for international destinations, rather than connecting foreign travellers with their domestic air carrier.
- With the Air Canada counter positioned at the far end of the terminal, it was excruciating to make the lengthy trek with countless suitcases in tow.
- More luxury brands (Longchamp, MCM) to cater to Chinese tourists
b) Gimpo Airport (GMP)
- GMP caters mainly to Koreans bound for domestic destinations, thus did not have as many staff members trained in English or other languages.
- Featured a plethora of self check-in kiosks for domestic air carriers
- Smaller than ICN but was less overwhelming to navigate
c) Jeju Airport (CJU)
- CJU caters to Koreans bound for return to the mainland or tourists bound for East Asian countries in close proximity (Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, etc.)
- Featured a plethora of self check-in kiosks for domestic air carriers
- Housed the largest selection of non-luxury Duty-Free products (ie. Benefit brow pencil at $27 plus buy 2 get 25% off)
- Larger than GMP but smaller than ICN; was easy to navigate with countless options to secure souvenirs before departing.
11) Cost of Living
Ten days might not be adequate in drawing definitive conclusions regarding the nation’s cost of living, though I did manage to determine a few inconsistencies.
Our purchases included: Daily necessities (toiletries, water), packaged food (instant coffee, cereal, snacks), and perishables (milk, packaged salad, fruit).
a) Groceries vs. Convenience
- Grocery stores had the lowest prices and best deals overall. Produce was fresher and end-of-day sales were common.
- Convenience stores operated with a 30-50% markup from grocery stores, plus an additional 10% at the airport. This markup likely assumed the cost of convenience, as grocery stores did not operate on a 24-hour basis. Individually packaged produce was occasionally available at convenience stores, but pricier and not as fresh as the grocery store selection.
- 2+1 deals usually served as incentive to buy more of the same produce. While these deals provided value at grocery stores, they had the opposite effect at convenience stores since costs added up quickly and defeated the purpose of “convenience” – ie. Having a standalone meal without the need to lug purchases around with you.
- Bread and buns were not cheap whatsoever; the bakery chains often priced them higher than local spots back home. Nevertheless, buying a single bun was cheaper than buying ingredients and bringing them home to bake – which is consistent with observations in other urban destinations.
b) Food and Dining
Coffee
Coffee
- Americanos are horribly expensive. Coffee was oddly bland and full of ice.
- Besides 곁에’s Drip Coffee and Pour-over, all other Americanos were shockingly dismal.
- All domestic beer tasted the same, like a generic lager devoid of character.
- Only the Jeju White Ale was memorable. The Premium Wheat Beer was passable, but I still could not deplete the can’s contents. The non-alcoholic White Ale was far too hoppy to be classified as a White Ale.
- Interestingly, beer in Jeju was more expensive than Korean mainland productions (Cass, Kloud, Terra, Kelly) - 9000 KRW in restaurant and 4500 in convenience store.
- Soju is cheaper than beer overall.
- Alcohol is more expensive in tourist areas
- Hoddeok ranges from $1-$3 ($1 at Shijang, $2-3 on the street); despite being marked up in the tourist areas, it was still pretty affordable.
- Produce prices can vary from Shijang to Shijang, so it is important to consult the local forums before committing to a $20 bag of Shine Muscat.
- All radish side dishes were very good, whether yellow or white. Pickled adequately, on the sweet side, but neither too acidic nor sugary
- Deep-fried dishes are executed superbly – think Korean Fried Chicken, with an incredibly thin layer of crunchiness between chicken flesh and breading, and Shake Shack Crinkle-Cut Fries.
- Kyochon was super crispy but not greasy. (That said, the greasiness of it all resulted in the runs a few hours later and suffering from satiation to the point where a proper dinner was omitted.)
Medication
Over the counter medication was, supposedly, only $2-3 normally. My Canadian expat expressed outrage when three items cost me $12 at the Gimpo Airport. Apparently, airport prices were far steeper than normal. Regardless, $12 was beyond affordable in my books.
Over the counter medication was, supposedly, only $2-3 normally. My Canadian expat expressed outrage when three items cost me $12 at the Gimpo Airport. Apparently, airport prices were far steeper than normal. Regardless, $12 was beyond affordable in my books.
12) District Characteristics
a) Seoul
Seoul Station
- Huge and difficult to navigate efficiently
- Highest number of homeless sightings (mostly elderly?)
- McDonald’s and Lotteria open late
- Busiest Lotte Mart visited
- GTX terminal was still busy at 10-11PM!
- Filthy with overflowing trash bins
- Reeked of cigarette fumes
- More foreigners than locals
- Rude staff
- Less filthy than Hongdae but densely populated with tourists eager to spend money
- Street vendors open late, but physical stores, including McDonald’s and CoCo, close at 10 PM.
- Nice quaint residential area with schools and government housing
- Mainly Korean-speaking + industrial area
- Mainly seniors
- Not clean: highest number of piled garbage sightings + awful sewer smells
b) Jeju
- All-Korean signage with little to no English.
- Few celebrity faces on advertisements, if any.
- Signage and bulletin boards primarily comprised of images and words. Compared to Seoul, the signs used simple layouts, solid colours, and block letters/characters. Needless to say, AI-generated ads were not witnessed.
- Apparently known for jaywalking seniors, hence the low speed limits and prevalence of traffic cameras.
- Pedestrians do not expect vehicles stopping to allow them to cross
13) People (Age, attitude, language capabilities)
a) Seoul
- Locals will gaze at you funny if you try using Korean since most understand English
- No one wears sunglasses outdoors, even in blinding conditions
- Business casual is the equivalent of casual
- Claw clips are acceptable for business and going out
- Low ponytails or hair down is the norm
- Baggy pants are common amongst the younger generation, while straight-cut pants for the working class.
- Short skirts are reserved for Japanese tourists, who dress distinctively more preppy with the skirts and layered socks
- Locals move quickly in lineups/checkouts, but walk horribly slow with airpods embedded in their ears. It was concerning to see many subway riders watching videos while going up and down the stairs.
- Commuters on the subway tend to have their heads bent down towards their phones; few people are looking around, people watching.
- A young man saw a girl struggling to return clip onto shelf at Daiso, but did not offer his height/reach to help reinstate position of the clip. Even when she asked, he merely ignored her and walked away, much to my shock. I would have helped her, but was not certain that I could reach since I was not much taller than her, nor did I want to lose my spot in line
- Homelessness: Seoul Station was the only station where elderly homeless were spotted within and immediately outside.
- Driving safety taken very lightly: Driver to ICN did not wear seatbelt for entire duration of 1h drive
- Pedestrians will get honked at for jaywalking or crossing an intersection too slowly
- As a whole, society is disciplined and responsible, but cold and lacking compassion.\
- Obvious agism is present, where elders are looked down upon as non-contributory members of society and children are celebrated (Children’s Museums, dedicated toilets, etc.)
- Smoking is the dominant form of inhalation, as opposed to vape and weed (latter is illegal)
- There are dedicated smoking areas at the airport and areas with high pedestrian traffic (Seoul Station)
b) Jeju
- Stronger evidence of patriarchy
- Women are more likely to attempt understanding mediocre Korean, but men are more likely to use English instead of listening to mediocre Korean
- Demographic is arguably more diverse than Seoul, as we spotted Southeast Asians in the Nonghyup Supermarket near Sehwa.
Conclusions
- Both of us enjoyed Jeju more, and it was a splendid idea to include several days of driving in Jeju before returning to face the chaos and bustle of Seoul.
- Jeju is the destination for nature, with calmer, suburban vibes. For experienced drivers, it is even more enjoyable due to the scenic view and smooth asphalt roads.
- Seoul is the destination for shopping, beauty (products and treatments), and urban lifestyle. Allocate more time than anticipated to account for detours and transit delays.
- In addition, allocate more budget towards unexpected Uber rides and dining, for shopping is fairly inexpensive. (I only used 75% of my budget for shopping!)
- Comprehensive research is mandatory for travel, since one can never be prepared enough when signage is lacking and unintuitive. Cross-referencing between Google Maps and Naver Maps is pivotal, as Naver Maps is often not up-to-date.
- Eat at regular intervals and take note of restaurant closure times. Last call may be 30-60 minutes before actual closing time.
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