Korea DAY 1: Journey to Seoul

Fitful was my slumber before the day of departure. Unfortunately, it hadn't only been one night of restlessness. At least three consecutive nights had been met with interrupted periods of rest, which eventually revealed itself in facial imperfections. The tension was partially owed to work-related qualms and partially anxieties from a long absence from international travel. Suffice to say, my browsing partner did aim to not alleviate either of these concerns. Above all, the greatest annoyance was the excruciatingly long planning phase, wherein seemingly endless back and forth would ensue before some form of compromise could be attained.

In the early afternoon hours, I bid a tearful farewell to Larry, Mr. Buttons, and Mini Sulley - I'd be devoid of their plush embrace for almost two weeks! I had imposed a three-hour buffer between our arrival at Pearson and the flight time. Upon arriving at the airport, I learned of Air Canada's new check-in kiosks, which were now more compact and less finnicky than the obsolete version.

​Shockingly, we blitzed through both baggage drop and security without a moment's delay. Most outbound flights had congregated in the domestic terminal, leaving the international screening area utterly barren.

With more than enough to explore the terminal, we sauntered through the duty-free gift shop. Deeply patriotic findings, such as RCMP moose plushies and Nordic-style pouches, proved amusing to me.

​Throughout the process, my browsing partner continued to exude grouchiness, either griping about one item or another. The topic of in-flight meals had stirred up yet another altercation with my browsing partner prior to boarding. A supposed mandate for airlines to offer food on international or long haul flights had been declared in a way that seemed rational to all. Appalling was the insinuative attitude. As someone that travels less than once per year on average, with international travels being a highly seldom occurrence - if even, this trivia was hardly common sense. Truthfully, I could not comprehend the value of ruffling feathers prior to a long-awaited vacation.

​We browsed the shop a bit more before plugging into a nearby seating area. At this point, I'd unveil my remaining Cheese Buffin halve from COBS Bread. In contemplation of a brownie from Tim Hortons, I sauntered over to the kiosk. Mobile Ordering had been advertised at its door, however I soon discovered that it was a browser-based platform exclusive to the airport terminal location, rather than the all-inclusive Tim Hortons app itself.

Boarding would proceed on time with impressive speed. In addition, the flow of passengers into the aircraft would be swift. The aircraft doors closed seven minutes before the scheduled takeoff, though departure would be 19 minutes delayed. Regardless, the arrival time was expected to deviate minimally.

​Supplied to each seat was a small white pillow, blanket, and travel kit - the latter including a sleeping mask, earplugs, toothpaste, and a toothbrush.

Orange juice and sparkling water were served in plastic cups as the last of Economy class was boarding. At first, I questioned their presentation in plastic cups, but later learned that this was a pre-flight refreshment. 

​Shortly after takeoff, the beverage cart came around. Glasses bearing the Air Canada logo emerged as expected. My request of an apple juice x ginger ale mix was received gladly, and with it a pack of Buttery Garlic & Herb Pretzels.
I tucked the snack pack away for now, seeing as lunch would be served at any moment.

And I was right. A hotel towel was distributed, then quickly collected before meal service.

​Having pre-ordered my meal in advance, there were no surprises whatsoever. With my previous in-flight meals assuming decent quality, I must admit the presentation of the Shepherd's Pie was quite dismal.

​The Broccoli and Carrot Salad was purely a slaw without a single shred of lettuce or leafy green in sight. Dressing had also been excessive. Dried cranberries were the saving grace.

Served extremely hot, the Traditional Beef Shepherd's Pie was an excessively salty entrée (if we could call it that) and texture-less beyond comprehension. A layer of mashed potato had been spread across 85% of the mushy meat mixture, then Garnished with toasted breadcrumbs.
A few stringy strands of cheese had been folded within the breadcrumbs, giving way to thin but satisfying cheese pulls. Hints of spice and herbs and bits of carrot had been found their way into the dish, residing under the mush of salted mashed potato in the even saltier ground beef.

​A single bread roll with butter compensated for the main's lack of palatability. Meanwhile, dessert adopted the form of Brownie Deluxe. Albeit thin, the slab was moist and delicious, just as with last time, even including a wispy thin top layer.

The Economy edition equivalent was served in disposable containers, either foil or paper, and wooden utensils. The tray also included a mini bottle of water, a reduction from our full-size rendition.

​Offerings of coffee and tea would ensue following the collection of empty meal trays. Alcoholic beverages could also be selected free of charge, though I abstained from the assortment given the dangers of turbulence.

​The entire flight estimated sixteen hours. At the five hour mark, I had managed a handful of short bursts of rest. Quickly growing restless, I paced about and took to stretching my neck, legs, arms, and back. Other passengers were spotted doing the same. Utilizing the storage area enabled me additional opportunities to secure snacks. Celebration crackers and packaged brownies were discreetly taken back to my seat as I readied myself to dive into the world of 마녀.

​Unfortunately, I didn't get very far in Jinyoung's drama before growing drowsy. Beyond mere fatigue though, my body felt unwell. My head was throbbing tremendously, and my lips began to quiver. Interpreting this as potential hunger, I unwrapped the Tuna Sandwich previously distributed. Alas, the true sensations of unwellness commenced following its consumption.

​After staring blankly at the paused screen, instinct kicked in and I rapidly grabbed a vomit bag from the storage pouch. Rushing to stand up, I clutched onto the bag and hurled into it, startling the man who had just emerged from the bathroom. He cast me a look of mixed disdain and concern, but quickly stepped aside such that I could steady myself in privacy.

The closest washroom was admittedly dirty - a condition stemming from neglect rather than misuse. It was regrettable, given its proximity to my seat. Nevertheless, a bathroom was a bathroom. My reflection revealed an atrociously pale face with even paler lips. After a few minutes of deep breaths, colour flowed back into my face. I returned to my seat, but the vomiting actions did not cease.

Again and again, I'd awake from poor slumber to launch another load of acidic orange fluid that reeked of tuna. Instead of turning away in disgust, my neighbour graciously handed me the barf bag from her seat pouch. I thanked her, while desperately trying to cover the tacky trails escaping the corners of my mouth.
To spare those in my vicinity from further disruption, I opted to saunter about the storage area with more paper bags in hand. Airline staff quickly acknowledged my state and offered me more bags, water, and even Gravol.

Over the final five hours of the flight, I'd repeat the process of muddled slumber and regurgitation. Even after landing, the chills, cold sweat, and nausea had not dissipated. While waiting to disembark, a fourth round of vomit would ensue. The man who had been seated across the aisle handed me his extra barf bags. Meanwhile, his partner offered an unused Air Canada eco tote for "storing my trash". I appreciated these gestures immensely, as the expected reactions were distancing and disgust. When I neared the egress door, a member of Air Canada staff gladly reached out to take my last barf bag, still fresh and damp. "Let me take that for you!" he offered. "Hope you feel better!"
All in all, I could not have wished for kinder service for my unexpected dose of extreme motion sickness.

Needless to say, I did not finish the eight episodes of Jinyoung's drama as planned.

​My browsing partner had been updated throughout the gagging episodes. When we reconvened after the flight, with me still tightly wrapped in the complementary blanket, I gradually regained stability. Being on land once more was the most relieving thing at that point.

Having completed the e-Arrival process - a very finnicky form, mind you - online, the only outstanding step was verification of biometrics. Then off to Baggage Claim we went.

The airport would mark our first sightings of celebrity-endorsed advertisements - a mere handful amongst the countless we'd later spot around Seoul. ​Park Bogum graced the complimentary luggage carts, while NewJeans the Tourism Korea banner.

​Online forums had warned of Korea's strict recycling policies, thus I wasn't surprised to see both garbage and recycling bins positioned next to one another by the baggage carousel.

​Obtaining our luggage was swift and straightforward. The next step was the obtain e-sims for use during our stay.

Both the SK and LG U+ kiosks could be found on the ground floor of the terminal, just beyond the arrivals hall. While I proceeded towards the SK booth with my WOWPASS Airport Package voucher code ready for redemption, my browsing partner queued two windows down at the LG U+ counter. While the WOWPASS booth did not feature a lineup, the staff members manning the counter were not particularly pleasant. After impatiently asking for my passport and verifying details, the staff member urged me to "stand off to the side" to continue the process of e-sim activation, even while there was no one in line behind me. I somehow managed, but juggling documents, a slippery card, and a phone over a stack of suitcases was hardly easy.

​While my WOWPASS doubled as a T-Money card (with a starting balance of 10,000 KRW), my browsing partner's purchase of a LG U+ e-sim included a T-Money card bearing a traditional design and starting balance of zero. The WOWPASS design was disappointingly basic in comparison, and I would have chosen a more unique card exterior if possible.

​I made a beeline for the closest convenience store to peruse the selection. There, I was met with images of Cha Eunwoo (for Ricola) and Jin (for Jin ramen). Of greatest interest to me were none other than the packaged items inspired by cast members of Culinary Class Wars, in particular the infamous Chestnut Tiramisu by Napoli Matfia. Naturally, I couldn't resist purchasing one for the trip into Seoul.

​Besides the e-sim setup, I had also wished to exchange Canadian currency to Korean Won using a WOWPASS machine. This device was, unfortunately, nowhere to be seen throughout the airport. Despite venturing one level lower as per the direction of the SK counter staff, we did not stumble on a single WOWPASS machine. Neither did we find vending machines for the Korea Tour Card I had been eyeing.

Instead, we stumbled upon the K-Culture Museum.

Frankly, the pop-up exhibit bore greater resemblance to Toronto's "immersive experiences" than an ode to the country's cultural origins. Regardless, neither of us were ones to question a free, beautifully presented exhibit.

Each room utilized light projections and LED screens (straight and curved) to create a variety of moving images along the walls and floor. The experience reminded me of Arcadia Earth, save the hefty admission charge and overcrowding.

​One of the exhibits substituted LED projections with light bulbs for illumination. We had already worked up a sweat navigating from floor to floor, but the plethora of halogen lights surely did not assist with our case.

After roaming the unexpected exhibit, we gradually made our way towards the AREX terminal. In spite of having reviewed an abundance of online sources in advance, determining the next course of action proved challenging. There were two AREX trains running from Incheon Airport: All Stops and Express. Instead of being situated adjacent to one another, they were stationed at opposite ends of the corridor, with wholly different ticketing machines, causing first-time passengers to scramble across the width of the hall. We paced between the sections several times before concluding that tickets should be purchased/redeemed on the Express side.

Passengers had the option of purchasing more than one tickets in the same transaction, in addition to confirming seat selection on the train itself. That said, all tickets must conform to the same type. In other words, a voucher for a complimentary ticket could not be redeemed in the same transaction as a standard ticket requiring purchase. Given that my WOWPASS Airport Package included one AREX Express ticket, I was required to scan my QR code in a separate transaction, then proceed with seat selection.
It is worth noting that the AREX All Stops operated more frequently, while the Express offered quicker service to Seoul Station. With the next Express train slated for 30 minutes later, we debated boarding the All Stops to reduce waiting time, but quickly recalled that my Airport Package exclusively included an Express ticket.

With the downtime we had, I reckoned we could browse nearby establishments and even return to the ground level's CU for a quick bite. Little had I realized that the sheer expanse of the airport terminal required at least fifteen minutes to travel each way. Moreover, the elevators were obnoxiously slow, often heading to the top- or bottom-most floor before reversing direction.

Our sole option was to sprint towards through the AREX Express gates, only to realize that the train platform was one level lower. With a total of three check-ins, one carry-on, and two backpacks, steering with speed was quite a strenuous feat.

Thankfully, we made the train just in time.

I was even able to consume a bowl of instant Abalone Congee over the course of the trip.​

​Seoul Station constituted a major transit hub, offering connections to the local subway system and regional GTX/KTX trains in addition to the AREX rail routes. Nearly 24 hours into our journey, both patience and energy levels were wearing thin.

​Exiting through the wrong gates caused use to reroute about the outside of the terminal. Perhaps there was a closer connection to the underground pathway, but I was convinced that pedestrians could cross at any major intersection. I was, regrettably, proven wrong.
After my browsing partner hauled the entirety of our luggage down a flight of concrete stairs, we learned of the need to descend back to the B1 level of the station, for only the underground pathway would enable crossing to the other side of the street.

​Slowly but steadily, we made our way through the station, along ramps and over the most extravagant amount of tactile plates to count. Seoul Station was admittedly filthy and housed a number of homeless residents - all elderly and mainly men.

Eventually, we caught sight of signage leading to our hotel. Navigating this stretch was equally painful, even in the absence of elevation changes. Not a single door was equipped with accessibility features. To make matters worse, all vestibules with double doors required commuters to travel diagonally: where the right set of doors was unlocked in the first array, the left set of doors was unlocked in the second. A seemingly local English-speaking woman assisted us with holding the doors, prompting a local non-English-speaking woman behind us to do the same.

Finally, we found the first floor of Four Points by Sheraton. The unmanned reception desk directed us to the 19th floor check-in desk, where we found solace after an incredibly grueling commute.

The room was clean, but outdated, cramped, and impossibly warm. Our suitcases barely fit in the entry corridor, and we could not open one luggage without closing another.

​Counter space in the bathroom was limited as well, leading one to use the top of the toilet seat and shelves underneath the sink for staging of shower products.

​Perhaps the sole saving grace was the Winsaf hairdryer, a high-performance device that I thoroughly enjoyed using. Complimentary plastic water bottles and room slippers were other benefits that induced a sigh of relief, given that such items had been eliminated from most North American counterparts.

Napoli Matfia's Chestnut Tiramisu was finally unveiled once we settled into the space.

Unfortunately, the supposedly popular packaged treat was horribly sweet without an ounce of chestnut aroma. I succeeded in depleting half of the cup, though focused on consumption of the craggy granola bits. My browsing partner, on the other hand, grimaced at the concoction. Ultimately, neither of us could stomach more than a few spoonfuls willingly.

​Consistent with Sunday Baking's declaration, Korean strawberries were indeed sweeter and juicier than the Canadian variety. Granted, they were likely grown in a greenhouse as a genetically modified species, for field strawberries hardly ever boast such saturated uniformity. The seeds on the surface were barely present; harnessed within a sturdy bulb were lightly floral notes tinged with subtle sweetness. It wasn't difficult to see why the variety would assume a natural choice for incorporation into cakes. Korean strawberries retained their shape well without exuding excess moisture (ie. no bleeding).

​The room had been set to a steamy 25 degrees at our time of arrival. Air conditioning was not available given that March was still considered a winter month. Calling upon concierge for assistance, a serviceman appeared to adjust the thermostat. In addition, a fan was provided for relief. The staff member advised that additional fans could be supplied, though we were hesitant to accept the offer in consideration of the already minimal corridor space.

​I somehow scraped together four to five hours of interrupted slumber. By the 5 AM mark, I could no longer rest easy.

In spite of the grueling flight and nightmarish navigation through Seoul Station, rest did not come easy.