The decision to gradually re-introduce rhythm into my daily routine commenced with the idea of a Black Sesame Madeleine. However, as any diligent reader ought to predict, weekend spur-of-the-moment projects rarely entail one singular creation.
Beyond a standalone item, such as a madeleine, I decided I was well overdue for sponge-making practice.
Although I could have adhered to the ever-easy Victoria sponge recipe, I figured that a genoise would assume the appropriate re-entry point into baking, for it relied on aeration technique rather than chemical leavener for its rise.
Ingredients:
- 3 egg whites
- 70 g granulated sugar
- 3 egg yolks
- 8 g honey
- 76 g cake flour
- 30 g milk
- 25 g canola oil
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
Bake at 330 F for 30 mins.
1) Clean bowls
Ensure that all bowls are clean and free of residue before commencing. When in doubt, blast the bowl with detergent and hot water and wipe dry.
2) Egg white contamination
Not all eggs will harness a perfectly intact yolk, so be careful when separating eggs. It is recommended to use a "separator bowl" to prevent ruining the entire batch if one yolk was broken. More often than not, I ignored this recommendation, for it increases the number of dishes.
Instead, I take to scraping out strands of broken yolk with egg shells and adding a pinch of cream of tartar (lemon juice or vinegar work as well) for insurance. This approach works adequately for sponge cakes, however I would likely start over if making meringue for an Italian or Swiss buttercream or macaron base; some recipes are stricter than others.
3) Meringue
Depending on the desired texture, the recipe may specify adding sugar to the egg white all at once or in stages (typically three additions). Adding all the sugar at once forms a softer meringue, and usually assumes the technique for soft cakes where the meringue isn't intended to provide structure and cracks are to be eliminated where possible - ie. Japanese Soufflé Cheesecake. The gradual addition of sugar intends to build structure. In this case, the the proteins slowly bind with the sugar crystals to form a glossy, airy component that can then be used to aerate cakes. My preferred approach is to to start beating the egg whites on high speed until frothy, add sugar in 3-4 additions and beat on medium speed, and finish the process at low speed to prevent overbeating. Once the surface is glossy and uniform, and a peak holds on the beater, the meringue is done.
Traditionally, the Cipriani Cake utilizes a vanilla pastry cream for a cohesive appearance with the torched meringue exterior. Given that I had approached the recipe with the sheer aim of practicing genoise, I hadn't contemplated the cultural intentions too deeply. Without a moment's hesitation, I had altered the cream to be a faintly chocolatey one with the substitution of cocoa powder for AP flour.
Ingredients:
- 90 ml milk
- ̶1̶/̶4̶ ̶v̶a̶n̶i̶l̶l̶a̶ ̶b̶e̶a̶n̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶i̶n̶f̶u̶s̶i̶o̶n̶ 5 g vanilla bean paste
- 25 g granulated sugar
- ̶4̶ ̶g̶ ̶A̶P̶ ̶f̶l̶o̶u̶r̶ 5 g cocoa powder
- ̶4̶ ̶g̶ 6 g cornstarch
- 1 egg yolk
- ̶1̶8̶0̶ 200 ml cold heavy cream




















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