Read Part 2 HERE !

​"Pick a place to eat." I had said. In retrospect, it would have been easier to decide upon a place then lead the way to the car.
My browsing partner was sluggish to budge and took no initiative to settle the issue of supper, only lamenting that the proposed options had been deemed unacceptable by me. And they were: grilled meat spots and homestyle Korean fare that we could eat in Seoul shouldn't be chosen over local finds of Abalone or shrimp sashimi. Of course, my suggestions of these delicacies had been turned down without remorse as well.

Eventually, my suggestion was accepted and realized. Naver Maps did not include hours for all restaurants, thus we would need to venture out and confirm personally. The sun had set completely by this point, cloaking our surroundings in an ominous dark veil. The rural roads were devoid of streetlights; the rental car's headlights were our sole source of illumination in navigating to the main road. Intensely tinted windows did not help our case.

In the nearby Sehwa business area, we found a Public Parking Lot. The lengthy paragraph underneath could not be quickly deciphered while driving by, thus we relied on tools such as Papago and Google Lens to explain the restrictions. Truthfully, the chances of being ticketed were low. Not only was the lot was deserted, we did not encounter a single soul during our short-lived stay. Temperatures had plummeted to the high single digits, while strong winds made walking unenjoyable.

​Practically every eatery on the premises had shuttered for the evening. Our eyes brightened at the sight of an illuminated restaurant. We pulled open the sliding door excitedly, only to lay eyes on an empty seating area. An elderly man called out to us, "끝났어!" They had ceased operations already.

Instead of departing immediately, the adjacent gift shop piqued my curiosity. In I went without a moment's hesitation.

The unexpected stopover revealed a plethora of unique, handmade trinkets, eventually assuming my favourite souvenir stop of the trip. From tile magnets to Stone Grandfather and Hallabong plushes, I ecstatically plucked various items from the shelves for purchase.

​When it came to confirming price or stock availability, I was able to communicate with the lady behind the cashier without issues. All the items were reasonably priced, with wallets at 10,000 KRW, cartoon coasters at 8,000 KRW, and tile magnets at 6,000 KRW. I also acquired the last Hallabong decorative 수새미. Originally positioned for display purposes only, the staff member had no qualms whatsoever packaging the handmade item for sale.

​My final bill totalled 59,500 KRW - about half the price I would have paid for a handful of souvenirs in North American cities. As a token of gratitude, I received a complimentary carrot pen. Pyeongdae ri was known for carrots, after all.

​Pitch black were our surroundings. By navigating towards the main road, we chanced across the Sehwa Beach and a nicely delineated pedestrian walkway along its south perimeter.

​I slept past 1 AM after hair-washing and bookkeeping needs. One is likely to believe that I would fall into a deep, uninterrupted slumber given the previous 48 hours, but this was hardly the case.

Although the room was cooler this time around, quality of sleep remained poor. My browsing partner had turned off the fan at the foot of the bed. Towards the middle of the night, I turned it back on, but forgot to aim the base in my direction, nullifying its cooling effects.

Around 5:50 AM, I awoke, then continued sleeping fitfully till 6:34 AM. By this point, I could no longer resume rest and resolved to fight through the fatigue.

Gearing up in comfortable attire, I announced a solo last-minute run to Seoul Station, then rushed out with an eco bag in tow.​

​It was during this journey that I discovered the nearby tunnel entrance to Seoul Station - a fixture that had been overlooked previously.

One wrong turn took me to the filthier section of the terminal, one that felt barren - save the noticeable presence of homeless residents. Many of these residents were elderly, if not middle-aged. Some shouted at commuters while remaining stationary, yet not in an aggressive way like Toronto or Vancouver. The utterances were disruptive, but mainly song-like in nature.

Eventually, I found the double escalators that led me up to Connect Place and Lotte Mart, where I had explored the previous day.

​Then, by adhering to coloured signage, I found myself in the KTX terminal we had hurriedly bypassed on the day of departure. The terminal was met with a bustling scene even in the early hours of the day.

The terminal operated not only as a transit hub for municipal, regional, and airport connections, but boasted plenty of food vendors and retail options as well. Within the KTX terminal were bubble tea (Truedan), pretzel and buns, cakes and smoothies, and even a fish cake counter.

I was positively salivating peering at the selection from beyond the glass windows. Prices ranged from 3500 KRW to 4000 KRW per stick, which I, someone who hails from a land where flat fish cakes are a rarity, considered extremely affordable.

Read Part 1 HERE !

​Waiting for boarding in a toasty environment was unbearable. Yet, it seemed that only I was unaccustomed to midday UV rays permeating the glass windows.

The cramped aircraft hadn't helped my case either. It had been years since I had last sat in Economy. Besides the narrow corridor of the passenger plane, tray tables adopted the now-obsolete folding type. To make mattes worse, my table was positively grimy, bearing indicators of a distinctively brown drink spill - either coffee or Cola. My browsing partner had opted for the window seat, and I saw that tables closer to the window were cleaner than the aisle. I scrubbed at my seat with vigor, only to never really utilize the tray table over the one-hour flight.

Another feature of the small, old aircraft were buttons and twist fans overhead. Despite my greatest attempts to sleep during the flight, I was rudely awoken by turbulence. Thankfully, the fan had been set on max to improve air circulation around me. There were no barf bags in the seat pocket in front of me.

Advertising was prevalent throughout the inside of the plane, making it easy for brands to leave an impression. This promotional approach was not unlike the ads spotted in subways, with the exception of celebrity spokespeople. Korea truly enjoyed such association, to a degree I shall never comprehend.

​Likely in light of the recent Jeju Air tragedy, safety and evacuation demonstrations were executed to tremendous detail. One of two flight attendants progressed through the steps of using the oxygen mask, all while looking absolutely soul-less. She was very unimpressed, and reasonably so if she had demonstrated the same sequence upwards of twenty times in a day.
I had placed my backpack on my lap instead of sliding it underneath the seat in front of me. While the flight attendant had strolled the aisles, she had not urged me to tuck the bag away as Air Canada staff would undoubtedly have.​

​Despite being delayed at the gate, boarding of passengers took place at an astoundingly quick pace. Closing of the aircraft door and taxi proceeded nearly immediately. That said, takeoff was delayed, resulting in an arrival time of 10 minutes past anticipated.

During boarding, I couldn't help but observe that Zone number did not correlate to Seat number. Being in Zone 3, we were amongst the last group to board, even if our seat was towards the front of the aircraft in the 5th row. This approach was peculiar and not very efficient as it created delays in the corridor.
One had the option of choosing seats during the reservation process, which would incur fees of 1,000 - 5,000 KRW. Those closer to the front would be priced higher than those in the rows behind. No fees would be incurred if opting not to choose a seat in advance. For those without pre-selected seats, flyers could pick from the available selection using the Self Check-In kiosk.

​The flight enabled me a firsthand peek into Korea's infamous "rush mentality". Passengers on board our flight were primarily locals ranging between the ages of 25 to 55. Not a single person waited for the seat belt sign to turn off before slowly getting up. Rather, patrons were standing up and ripping off their seat belts from the millisecond that the sign was no longer illuminated. Calls were being made and social media feeds were being watched like breaking news. Upon nearing the gate, the aircraft door opened immediately, allowing deplaning to take place. The masses rushed to get off the flight, as if the one-hour journey had delayed them half their day.

The hurried pace continued from the gate to the baggage claim area. Impressive were the consistent footsteps of those around me, to the point where no one in the office would ever declare me as a "speedwalker" had they witnessed the scene unfold.

Featuring dim lighting and low ceilings, the baggage area reminded me of Halifax and Montréal. Though, Halifax did not see as many patrons and Montréal was smaller and grimmer, without any form of embellishments.
Jeju International Airport included three photo spots near the exit, along with a promotional sequence playing on the LED screens wrapped around surrounding pillars.

Even those that had rushed to disembark the aircraft slowed near the displays. Each party took quick snapshots before proceeding on their way; such conciseness prevented a queue from forming, as one would have expected in North America with hoards of Chinese tourists.

​The most innovative method of capturing a photo was seen in a couple's use of the carry-on handle bar as a tripod. Before dashing to the display with Stone Grandfathers and Hallabong, a woman positioned her phone against the handle bar and set a timer. Then the couple dashed into frame with gleeful smiles. Absolutely adorable was this encounter - in sheer contrast to the grumbly travel companion next to me.

​There was more to explore upon exiting the baggage claim. Of note was a series of restaurants arranged in a semi-circle with a faux naturescape centrepiece.

​We'd also lay eyes on a rare WOWPASS kiosk and a decently sized Olive Young.

​I headed outside for a brief moment, leaving my browsing partner to handle luggage and investigate next steps. (Of course, the latter was not done.) Past the automatic sliding doors were dreary, grey skies, waving palm trees, and slick asphalt. Conditions were humid, concluding the arrival (or ongoing status) of a tropical storm.

​Many passengers had huddled about a nearby bus stop, likely with the intention of heading into Jeju City.

I took note of the amenities on site, including a fourth floor observatory (that we wouldn't be visiting) and muddled directions for the rental car facilities. The label of "Rental Car Shuttles" implied that such facilities were located off-site, as opposed to navigable via indoor passages of the airport.

Heading back inside the terminal, I realized my browsing partner had not made any progress with the rental car administrative activities and had, instead, been awaiting my return to commence any work. The delay in action frustrated me, for the Lotte Rent-A-Car help desk was just a few steps away.
Shaking my head in annoyance, I neared the section of the counter that offered English-speaking services and presented my reservation confirmation. The lady behind the desk was exceptionally friendly and verified my documents one by one. She explained the next steps with clarity: Given that the reservation had not been made under the same name as the International Driving Permit (IDP) holder, additional administrative steps would be required. It was advised that the IDP holder create a user account with Lotte Rent-A-Car such that booking could be shifted under the same name.
In consideration of time, she recommended that we board the shuttle to the Lotte facility first, as account creation could take place during the commute. Subsequent steps could be finalized at the rental location by on-site staff.

And so, we followed the masses and respective signage, crossing over to a covered walkway with artificial grass as carpeting. The covered corridor offered protection from ongoing precipitation. We continued trekking until reaching Lotte Rent-A-Car's shuttle bus stop near the very end of the walkway. By this point, we had grown haggard from the turn of events. Squelching patches of sodden carpeting underneath my non-waterproof sneakers had also made for heightened displeasure.

​Successfully boarding the shuttle offered tremendous relief. Despite our luggage barely fitting into the dedicated storage sections, I heaved a sigh knowing that we were on our way at long last. In spite of the online documentation about Jeju car rentals - be they forums or VLOGS - reality confirmed that the process wasn't nearly as straightforward as others had made it out to be:

• For starters, there were countless rental car companies, likely the reason why rental facilities are located off-site instead of easily accessible within airport corridors.
• For every rental car company, there was a dedicated shuttle bus. These buses operated akin to standard buses, with numbered stops to indicate their boarding area. However, instead of assigning one number per company, several companies shared a range of stops with some overlap. As an example, Company A boarding would take place at stops 1-3, but Company B boarding may take place from 3-5. It didn't help that all the shuttle buses assumed a similar exterior, save the logo on the side.
• Shuttle buses were not always available. According to the schedule posted within the airport, their arrival times were staggered. On average, they would come every 15-20 minutes.

​Although there was a departure board and plenty of signage within the airport, the information was not categorized clearly for ease of navigation. The average traveller could easily misinterpret the wayfinding elements for taxis, buses, and rental car shuttle buses. Essentially, it was data overload without a sense of synthesis. There was also minimal warning, if any, regarding timing of each event (ie. syncing reservations, walking, waiting for the shuttle, travel time towards the rental facility, etc.). In addition, the advertised process did not consider those travelling in large groups with young children and elderly, nor those with copious amounts of luggage (us).
As I'd later learn, Korean appeared to operate in a manner where processes are advertised as swift and efficient, but exclude important details about preparation and aftermath.

Ten to fifteen minutes later, we'd arrive at Lotte Rent-A-Car. The facility was positively bustling. Despite the depressing weather, many locals had decided to make the trip over from the Korean mainland.

Scanning the vicinity, there appeared to be three methods of obtaining one's reserved vehicle:

1. Self-Serve Kiosk
2. Korean-speaking counter
3. "Foreigner"/English-speaking counter

Instead of placing queue markers, visitors would obtain a "Waiting Ticket" to secure their spot for service. Admittedly, I found it quite novel to have dedicated waiting tickets for domestic (Korean-speaking) and "foreigner" (English-speaking) clients. The tickets were assigned different numbering sequences, allowing customers to be directed to the appropriate staff member for assistance

​Approximately 60% of the clients were domestic visitors, either middle-aged women or families with young children. While in wait of our turn, I discovered the availability of on-site bathrooms and yet another LED screen listing customer names and the parking area of their assigned rental vehicle.

​When our number was called, the English-speaking member of staff confirmed the reservation transfer and provided an info sheet for reference. Indicated on the slip was our vehicle model, parking area, gas type, and return date. My browsing partner made a fuss about "LPG", an exclusive type of gas apparently not offered at all stations.
Adjacent to the payment terminal was a table of tourism discounts, ranging from museum and dining offers to admissions to Snoopy Planet.

​With paperwork finalized, we set out to Parking Area 6H, following the pavement markings depicting the pedestrian route.

​The vehicle was remarkably pristine - not an ounce of dust, smear, or stain anywhere! In front of the passenger seat, a sticker had been placed to confirm completion of cleaning and enforce policies to keep pets in cages and forbid smoking.

Accompanying the rental was a built-in navigation system (extremely helpful for locating local destinations) and even a dashcam!

​Departing the facility, a member of staff documented the existing fuel level. We were instructed to return the car with a similar amount, or risk facing additional charges due to insufficiency.

​Driving through Jeju City wasn't the most interesting of ventures. The streets curved abruptly and congestion was comparable to suburban neighbourhoods during rush hour. That said, it was still better than driving in urban areas. 

​We quickly learned that speed limits were strictly enforced on the island, to the extent where the navigation screen would flash red if the limit was exceeded. Cameras were also observed at nearly every signalized intersection, threatening the receipt of speeding tickets.

Although my browsing partner griped at the odd transitions of 30, 40, and 50 km/h zones, the complaints gradually decreased as we traversed into the calmer, residential areas. Much to my surprise, there were barely any vehicles on the road on Saturday evening. The estimated ninety-minute commute steadily reduced to just fifty-seven minutes.

At first, we regarded the navigation directions with wary, for we had guided onto a narrow, unpaved farm road. Proceeding cautiously, the reserved Airbnb came into view from afar, allowing me to confirm validity of the route. Given the muddy grounds and sharp, unsigned turns, extreme care was demanded to prevent accidentally scratching the car.

​We arrived at long last, laying eyes on the series of "pensions" I had investigated comprehensively in the months prior.

​Four tandem parking spaces were outlined before the first house. Not a single one was occupied though. A single white car was parking on a gravel lot located perpendicular to the grid; we presumed it to belong to the owner/Airbnb host.

​​​Braving ruthless gusts, we meandered towards Pension No. 1. About two weeks ago, the host had reached out to confirm booking of Pension No. 1. At fist, I was surprised given that my request was for No. 2. Ultimately, No. 1 had been the most fitting choice, for it featured the white curtains that I desired and proximity to the washer and dryer room.

​The keypad code had been provided in advance of our arrival. As my browsing partner transported luggage from the trunk and passenger seat, I worked to unlock our accommodations for the next two nights. Three attempts later, the cozy interior was finally unveiled. I was in awe!

Attractive, spacious, and beautiful, the pension aligned exactly with the images posted online. The landing area was set at a lower elevation than the ground floor, allowing for temporary storage of luggage and facilitating removal of shoes. The colourful tiling instilled a sense of whimsy, beyond allowing for ease of cleaning.

Beyond the landing area was a small kitchen, complete with sink, cooktop, and microwave. There was also a small fridge adjacent to this setup. Utensils, plates, and pots could be found in the drawers and cabinets underneath, though it should be noted that washing before use was non-negotiable. Grease and food remnants were spotted even at a distance. The interior of the microwave was also heavily soiled with bits of food, arguably dirtier than those in publicly accessible convenience stores.

​Separating the kitchen and fireplace was an elevated living room/dining room. This area provided access to the backyard, bathroom, and partial view into the adjacent pool area. Utilization of the pool would incur an additional 90,000 KRW fee, while the fireplace priced by butane and log usage. Neither were of interest to us.
Above the dining area was a projector, such that movies and television could be viewed from both levels of the building.

The washroom boasted similar tiling to the landing area, but adopted a sauna-like appeal. Wooden ceilings with skylights and a jacuzzi-style bath area were notable features. I appreciated the consistent tiling throughout, as it meant damp feet could access the towel storage without fear of floor damage and slippage. That said, the steep steps leading down towards the shower area was most definitely not accessible. We also later learned that evening that water pressure was severely lacking. The pressure in the faucet was, sadly, stronger than the streams emerging from the showerhead. In fact, the tap was so strong, splashes onto the mirror were nearly inevitable.

A single plastic cup was found near the sink. This vessel was presumed for brushing teeth, but there was only one for the two of us. In reaching out to the host, my request for a second cup was dismissed immediately, with the reasons being "sustainability" and "Korean culture". Her intent was to encourage sharing of one cup, but that we could utilize the ceramic cups in the kitchen if desired. Nonsensical in more ways than one, it appeared that she wished to refrain from direct contact with the guests as much as possible. In the end, we resolved to use the plastic cup for brushing teeth and the patterned ceramic ones for drinking water and coffee.

Save a few stray hairs in the corners, the bathroom was quite clean. Signage near the toilet warned against using too much toilet paper, as clogging was possible. This message was posted in both Korean and English, likely targeting speakers of both groups.

​The aspect that caught us off guard was the heated floor. Neither of us was accustomed to the setup, nor were we particularly fond of the added temperature when it came to food items in our luggage being warmed accidentally. Having placed makeup and coffee beans near the bottom of my suitcase, the first evening taught me to reconfigure the arrangement accordingly.

​Wooden stairs led up to the second floor bedroom. At first glance, the steps seemed to be positioned at uniform heights and distances. Only with repeated use did we find its surface dangerously slippery and the turns hazardous in dim lighting.

Aside from these design choices, the space was positively serene. The combination of slanted ceiling lights and floor-to-ceiling curtains exuded a bright, welcoming impact. Tall windows and skylights also ensured plenty of natural illumination during daytime, while a single window by the stairwell provided much-needed relief from stuffiness come nighttime.

​I took note of outlet inventory, the dust of the railing, and the view of the dining room from above. Descending back downstairs, we'd proceed to transport our bags past the landing area and gradually settle in.

Read Part 3 HERE !

Neither open windows nor a fan blowing at the foot of our beds all night could ease the stickiness in the air. Quality of sleep was extremely poor, and the rumble of trains that rush hour brought into the nearby transit hub hadn't helped either.

​I had climbed into bed just before midnight after what appeared a never-ending evening of navigation woes. Throughout the night, I woke two to three times, then surrendered around the 5 AM mark. While my browsing partner fought to ignore my morning ruckus, I moved with resoluteness to start the day early. Time is of the essence always, but especially so on vacation.

When we had checked in late the previous evening, I had skipped perusal of hotel amenities. To start, I'd venture down to the 19th floor lobby to locate a WOWPASS machine for currency conversion. A middle-aged Japanese couple hovered before it, expressing confusion then ultimately walking away with a dissatisfied exchange.

​Drawing near the giant screen, I tapped my card to exchange the four 50-dollar bills I had brought with me. After all, the machine would only accept Canadian dollars in the form of fifties. Two hundred Canadian dollars was the equivalent of 195,000 KRW after exchange.

​Next, I headed to the laundry room. Coin Laundry was possible between the hours of 9 AM - 9 PM, with washing and drying priced at 5,000 KRW each and detergent and fabric softener at 1,000 KRW each. Two sets of washer-dryers were found behind the door.

​Within the room were also a microwave, water dispenser, and ironing setup (iron + board). I took note of these features, then reached for an empty laundry bag for my browsing partner, as the room only included one.

​Despite the path from the hotel to N Seoul Tower being relatively straightforward on foot, all buses routed towards Seoul Station involved a detour before the entrance of Gyeongbokgung Palace, as only the arterials roads were wide enough to be traversed.

​Moreover, the short-lived commute involved one transfer. While I could have undertaken the remaining twenty minutes on foot instead of waiting seven minutes for the next bus, the mid-morning hours had become far warmer than anticipated. In the presence of concrete interlock walkways and sheer absence of tree cover, I opted to take cover under ledge of the nearest bus shelter. It was, in this moment, that I noted not a single member of society donned sunglasses in the face of eyeball-scorching UV rays.

​I met up with my browsing partner within my ETA period. Before departing, a stopover was made at CU. I made it a point to obtain the Korea Tour Card to enable discounts on admission and other related attractions, not knowing that the 4,000 KRW card would be phased out at the end of the month.

Quick lunch options at CU were dismissed on the bases of blandness; though, I must admit to giddiness at seeing the same packaged chicken breast that Mark had showcased in his latest Korea VLOG.

We then slowly made our way to Seoul Station, with me identifying items of interest along the way. While we could have descended directly into the station via the nearest subway entrance, my browsing partner expressed curiosity towards the pedestrian overpass.
"We have to head over there (across the street) anyway - might as well see the view from up there." was the justification. Little did I know that these gentle nudges would continue to postpone meal times and delay desired activities for the rest of the trip.

And so, braving the blazing sun, we climbed up to the first pedestrian overpass and crossed over the complex intersection of Hangang-daero/Sejong-daero, Tongil-ro, and Toegye-ro.

Glass panels had been erected along the edges of the exposed walkway for the obvious reason of safety, save a bump-out observation deck with a singular opening for unobscured photo capture. I detested the pathway's proximity to the cloudless sky, again expressing distaste for the lack of streetscaping. The observation of a café with an elevated seating area - Yes, you read that right: even higher than the overpass - was bewildering to me.

Scalp burning immensely, I urged my browsing partner to make haste. Obtaining a hat for the remainder of the day's outdoor activities appeared non-negotiable at this point.

Descending a winding staircase led us back to the station where confusion and fatigue had plagued us the night before. Homeless sightings hadn't diminished in the slightest. Rather, the ruckus was louder and area busier.

Striding past a defunct railway terminal, homeless elderly men yelling indistinguishable phrases, and substantial smoking area, we made our way into the teensiest Daiso I had ever seen. Cramped corridors and failure to find hats prompted our near-immediate exit. We'd head two levels up towards Lotte Mart to continue our search.

​In the bustling supermarket, I'd find a plethora of snacks but not a single hat of interest. The grocery section of the Mart was positively flourishing, which raised an eyebrow given that it was still a weekday afternoon.

I resisted the purchase of skincare items and weighty munchables, for we'd soon be subject to luggage overage charges imposed by Jeju-bound air carriers. A pack of Kanu instant coffee was procured, then we ventured to the connecting floors of Lotte Mall.

Utterly unplanned was the browsing of said retail floors. Alas, one distraction led to another, causing time to pass quicker than we realized.

One level above Lotte Mart was a haven for enthusiasts of games and animated characters: There were dedicated sections for Pokémon, Pixar, Nintendo, LEGO, and more!

Naturally, I was also unable to resist the conveniently positioned photobooth. The Korean Life4Cuts accepted payment by card and cash and charged a mere 5,000 KRW for two copies. Furthermore, there were no surcharges for specialty/exclusive frame options. The widespread availability of photobooths was a pleasant observation, but the accessible prices even more.

The unexpected yet convenient location of Muji incited a visit. There, I found products that would otherwise be pricier and not yet in stock back home. Given the allure of Instant Tax Refund, I committed to purchasing two sunhats for the upcoming itinerary. One adopted a dusty pink hue with a wide brim and waterproof coating, while the other a lightweight black with breathable top.

​Washrooms were located on the same level as the parking lot. In contrast to the aura presented by the department store, the stalls weren't particularly clean, nor was the absence of soap and water regarded favourably.

By the time Lotte Mall had been traversed in most of its entirety, the clock read 2 PM. Sustenance was needed.

​Tokkijung Project was selected based on proximity.

The interior housed a greater number of patrons than perceived from the outside. Luggage was held near the reception desk as to prevent obstructions in the main corridors of access. Meanwhile, servers flitted between different sections of the restaurant, transporting giant glasses of carbonated mixed drinks and shareable platters to parties of two, three, and four.

Read Part 2 HERE !

​Apparently, a recently introduced tourist curfew would come into effect for Bukchon Hanok Village and the surrounding districts beyond the hours of 10 AM to 5 PM.

​I had urged my browsing partner to hurry, only to later learn that our area of interest lay with the retail side of the village. Residing just outside the curfew zone, this strip was distinctly more modern than heritage.

​Making our way through the village, our gaze fell upon a Baskin Robbins and Madang collaboration set within a hanok, yet another museum (the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul), an O-Sulloc outpost, and even a Blue Bottle location.

My eyes shone with wonder as we chanced across hoddeok and bunggeoppang stalls. Neither sparked the same reaction from my browsing partner. Regrettably, the former could not be consumed due its peanut-based filling, while the latter succeeded only in enticing one of us (me).

We opted to browse nearby shops instead, where I surrendered my first bill of Korean won for a mini knitted tote intended for my coworker.

Rounding the corner of Bukchon-ro 5-gil at Bukchon-ro, we encountered a staggering number of protests. Police buses had lined the length of the street, seemingly positioned in place for the long term.

A few steps away was the storefront of Wonder Cookies, appearing precisely in the configuration shown online by Hanbit Cho.

​The storefront gave the illusion of an old-fashioned music box with its partially Serif font and robin's egg blue accents. Artificial garden elements were also arranged outside surrounding the seating area. Given the external conditions though, it was far too noisy and chilly to sit comfortably for extended periods of time.

​Upon pulling open the double doors, we were greeted warmly by the sole member of front line staff. Baking operations had evidently ceased for the day, though one could make out at least two members of staff assisting the pastry chef himself in the back room.

The front of the store housed two areas: a vestibule with baking-related replicas (countertop oven, cookbook, cookies, etc.) on display and a compact seating area with benches and backless chairs. Past this section were the product display shelves, labelled "Pop-Up, "Cookie", and "Order" respectively. It was presumed that "Pop-Up" items were introduced on a rotational basis, while "Cookie" indicated fixed selections.

​By the time of our mid-afternoon visit, many varieties had already sold out. Amongst the remaining assortment were: Levain, White-Macadamia, Apple Pecan, Red Velvet, Fig Marshmallow, Lotus Marshmallow, Matcha Marshmallow, and Earl Grey Peach. I automatically dismissed the varieties containing fruit preserves, for they were likely to accumulate moisture quickly. Flavours of Red Velvet and S'Mores spinoffs were also largely unappealing to me, leaving me to lean towards Levain and White Chocolate Macadamia - the arguably classic cookies profiles.

Frankly, their fist-sized appearances had deterred my appetite slightly, as I would be sampling them solo. Since the cashier could not guarantee against potential cross-contamination with the peanut-containing doughs, my browsing partner erred on the side of caution. The cookies would largely be reserved for my consumption, while a slice of Basque Cheesecake was shared.

"Ade" is a persistently prominent drink choice in Korea. Composed of carbonated water and fruit compote or jam, the beverage is served over ice and remarkably popular during the sweltering summer months. For those hailing from cold countries - ahem, us - it would serve as a wonderful late afternoon pick-me-up in place of coffee.

Wonder Cookies' signature Citron Grapefruit Ade and Plum Ade set us back 5,500 KRW and 5,900 KRW respectively. Meanwhile, the cookies rang in at 5,900 KRW each and the Basque Cheesecake at 7,400 KRW. Visually pleasing cafés are hardly budget-friendly, though one could confirm that Korea was charging a hefty markup from North American prices on all items except the Basque cheesecake, which is usually priced between five to seven dollars before tax.

Fitful was my slumber before the day of departure. Unfortunately, it hadn't only been one night of restlessness. At least three consecutive nights had been met with interrupted periods of rest, which eventually revealed itself in facial imperfections. The tension was partially owed to work-related qualms and partially anxieties from a long absence from international travel. Suffice to say, my browsing partner did aim to not alleviate either of these concerns. Above all, the greatest annoyance was the excruciatingly long planning phase, wherein seemingly endless back and forth would ensue before some form of compromise could be attained.

​Shockingly, we blitzed through both baggage drop and security without a moment's delay. Most outbound flights had congregated in the domestic terminal, leaving the international screening area utterly barren.

​Throughout the process, my browsing partner continued to exude grouchiness, either griping about one item or another. The topic of in-flight meals had stirred up yet another altercation with my browsing partner prior to boarding. A supposed mandate for airlines to offer food on international or long haul flights had been declared in a way that seemed rational to all. Appalling was the insinuative attitude. As someone that travels less than once per year on average, with international travels being a highly seldom occurrence - if even, this trivia was hardly common sense. Truthfully, I could not comprehend the value of ruffling feathers prior to a long-awaited vacation.

​We browsed the shop a bit more before plugging into a nearby seating area. At this point, I'd unveil my remaining Cheese Buffin halve from COBS Bread. In contemplation of a brownie from Tim Hortons, I sauntered over to the kiosk. Mobile Ordering had been advertised at its door, however I soon discovered that it was a browser-based platform exclusive to the airport terminal location, rather than the all-inclusive Tim Hortons app itself.

Reverse engineering a packaged product is a feat only Claire Saffitz can pull off in 24 hours. Devoid of a culinary school background but brimming with ideas and intense, offbeat cravings, I decided that attempting to recreate President's Choice The Decadent Chocolate Chip Cookie would bring me closer to two goals:

1. Having crunchy chocolate chips on demand - since I've succeeded at many crunchy-chewy variations
2. Economic freedom - should I successfully crack the code, I'd be free from constantly investing in a product subject to inflation

​The idea was not dissimilar to my seemingly endless quest for brownies - which, of course, I've yet to conclude a winner to parallel (or better yet, overthrow) the fudgy, delectable Farmer's Market Two-Bite Brownies.

I'd start by reviewing the ingredient list on the packaging, in particular noting their sequence. My assumption was that each ingredient was slotted by quantity. Surprisingly, chocolate chips was first. This was the singly easiest element to tackle, for I already had a 1 kg pouch of The Decadent Chocolate Chips in my inventory!

​The next step was to determine the ever-critical ratio of butter to sugar to flour. Forming the foundation of all cookie recipes, this trio would not only determine the resulting texture, but colour and shape as well. By reviewing a handful of SK's sturdier cookie recipes, I'd find ones that involved chilling and slicing ("log" cookies), egg-less (shortbread), and barren of baking soda. The Decadent was none of these, but the ingredient quantities served as a good starting point for Test Batch #1.

​As with most cookie recipes, softened butter is creamed with granulated and brown sugar until airy. Next, egg and vanilla are whisked in. Finally, dry ingredients (flour and leavener, if any) and mix-ins are folded into the dough.

Given the high flour content, I had no qualms that this dough would be sturdy and even a bit difficult to mix. Much to my surprise, it wasn't excessively difficult to portion. This was likely the first indicator that more flour was needed.

The rounds portioned using my 1.5 tbsp cookie scoop retained its textured edges even after baking. Asymmetrical mounds settled into a moderately domed cookie with faint ripples along its circumference. Meanwhile, the rounds that had been scooped then rolled into spheres emerged smoother and flatter. The interiors differed minimally, if at all.