Shopping while on vacation is inevitable. I had budgeted a decent amount for splurging on skincare, souvenirs, and potential impulse buys, but generally found beauty products and services to be extremely budget-friendly. Souvenirs would echo the same sentiment. On the other hand, dine-in coffee and touristy spots were discovered to be astoundingly pricey.

Our haul at the O-SULLOC Tea Store was as follows:

• Jeju Green Tea Baumkuchen (Buy 3 for 22,000 KRW) (x1)
• Jeju Hallabong Baumkuchen (Buy 3 for 22,000 KRW) (x2)
• Samdayeon Milk Tea Packs 10,400 KRW
• Jeju Green Tea Raspberry Truffle 12,600 KRW 
• Jeju Volcanic Tea (50 g) 35,000 KRW
• Jeju Green Tea (50 g) 17,000 KRW
• Matcha Stick (5-pack / 70 g) 8,000 KRW 
• Jeju Green Tea Chocolate Bar 9,900 KRW
• Premium Matcha (40 g) 18,400 KRW
• Matcha Pretzel (70 g) 5,400 KRW
• Green Tea Wafer (100 g) 5,400 KRW
• Camelia Forest Tea Bags (3-pack) 5,500 KRW
• Jeju Tea Museum Badge Set 5,000 KRW
• Premium Matcha Waffle (72 g) 5,400 KRW
• Green Tea Milk Spread (x2) 19,800 KRW

The Jeju Green Tea Raspberry Truffle wasn't half bad. It retained mild, bitter notes of matcha and a hint of fruitiness from its raspberry filling. When consumed alongside my own tempered creations though, it paled in comparison, lacking both the depth and snap of handcrafted bonbons. Similar remarks were extended towards the Jeju Green Tea Chocolate Bar, which had actually served as the inspiration for my own Matcha Ganache Truffle.

Matcha powder was a non-negotiable purchase of the visit, so I tacked on a few instant mixes as well, having embraced high expectations. To my utter dismay, the Samdayeon Milk Tea Packs were gritty and bland, the Matcha Sticks horrifically sweet with absolutely no trace of bittersweet grassiness, and the Premium Matcha tawny and odour-less.

​​Meanwhile, the Camelia Forest Tea Bags were certainly aromatic. Like DAVIDsTEA's countless varieties of floral and herbal teas though, flavour payoff did not correspond to its impressive, alluring fragrance. On a general note though, loose leaf tea definitely assumed the more informed decision compared to drink mixes.

Packaged snacks, such as the Green Tea Wafer cubes and Matcha Pretzels, were quite tasty though! Unfortunately, neither were particularly easy on the wallet, ringing in at 5,400 KRW each. With the assistance of plastic, re-usable containers, both packages successfully made it back without their contents suffering damage.

Several years later, the Green Tea Milk Spread remains wickedly popular. The customer in front of me had slipped three jars of the spread into her basket before vanishing into the other aisles. Although I was more or less disillusioned by the taste tests that proceeded, the spread persisted as being one of the passable purchases. Indeed, it tasted no different than matcha powder whisked into sweetened condensed milk, save the addition of stabilizers and the relatively disappointing matcha used. Customization of intensity was not possible. At its given price, the spread serves as a solid souvenir, but overpriced otherwise.

Without a doubt, the Jeju  Green Tea Baumkuchen  and Jeju Hallabong Baumkuchen were the worst purchases of the entire haul! Both varieties were crumbly and disappointing: the Green Tea tacky and, again, bland, while the Hallabong wholly synthetic and cloying. 

Read Part 2 HERE !

The Air Canada booth was located at the very end of the international terminal, which prompted hurried footsteps (me only) and deep sighs. Of all the outbound flights from Incheon, there was only one flight operating to Toronto via Air Canada.

The attendant behind the counter barely had to ask "Where are you flying to?", as there was only one answer.
Due to my baggage count reaching capacity, my new carry-on from The North Face was assigned to my browsing partner's allowance. When provided the option of checking in the suitcase at no extra charge, there was no hesitation expressed. Needless to say, I wasn't pleased to have an utterly new purchase be subject to the notoriously rough handling of cargo loading staff. Furthering my concerns was the absence of a padlock. But my points became invalid in the face of someone who did not wish to wield extra baggage.

​These arguments later became minor frustrations in the face of other pre-departure procedures. Obtaining tax refunds was the singly most stressful and time-consuming element of our time at the airport, even more so than passing through security.

Between the countless forum posts and friend/coworker recaps, obtaining our tax refunds was far more troublesome than others made it out to be. For starters, tax refund kiosks were only located at two designated points throughout the terminal. At the closest station was a single attendant and an info banner bearing QR codes. The attendant provided absolutely no assistance whatsoever, merely gesturing to the QR codes as he remained stationed at his post.
From what I had gathered, each QR code corresponded to a different tax refund issuing company, each with their own browser-based portal for processing receipts. In other words, one would need to determine the tax refund issuing company based on their receipt header and complete the process for each receipt on hand. I had about five receipts; since nearly all had different issuing companies, the process was repeated several times. Mind you - each submission required photo capture of your passport. In the case where the photo recognition was not satisfactory, the process would be restarted.
Tax refunds could be credited to a credit card, so it was also pivotal to have the desired card handy. Undertaking this multi-step procedure while standing (with luggage!) about was no simple feat.

For the last two receipts, there was no corresponding QR code on the info banner, so the attendant directed us to a series of self-serve kiosks instead. A hoard of tourists happened to cluster in front of these kiosks at this time, each bearing a thick wad of receipts in hand. I grew antsy while waiting for one of the machines to become available.
The self-serve kiosk operated in an identical manner to the one housed at Nyu Nyu, with the exception that it recognized receipts from all tax refund issuing companies. However, there was one caveat: Tax refunds processed at the airport could not be refunded in the form of cash. It was a two-step process that involved queuing again after passing security.

Suffice to say, it is worthwhile to arrive early to sort out these procedures before boarding.

I sped through security without any issues, though my browsing partner was subject to a second screening when issues arose regarding biometrics previously submitted. After a fifteen-minute delay, we navigated towards the Tax Refund section to obtain our cash reimbursements.

Of course, there was another lineup to reach the counter. Those that had forgotten to complete the first part of the process before security were able to use the kiosks adjacent to the staffed counters. Meanwhile, the rest of us lined up for our turn.

​I wasn't sure what to do with the excess KRW, and neither was my browsing partner. We tucked the envelopes away before scanning the vicinity for a bathroom to cleanse our hands of the grimy bills.

It wasn't my first time at Incheon's international departure terminal, but I was admittedly surprised at the overwhelming number of brand name outlets, yet not a single relatable snack outpost.

Korea has always been at the forefront of new technology and an LED screen notifying users of occupied stalls was a helpful, innovative addition. It was positioned in the entryway and identified stall occupancy akin to vacancies within parking garages with green or orange indicators.

I had been eager to procure one more box of KANU Americano before departing. When Lotte Mart was too busy the night before and 7-Eleven appeared somewhat pricey, I delayed the mission until the final minutes before boarding. The latter had been a poorly informed choice, for the only GS25 was located at the far end of the terminal, essentially a ten-minute sprint from our gate.
Ultimately, I succeeded in procuring the goods, however the price was steeper for a more compact version, termed "KANU Mini".

Although my browsing partner had been advised I could undertake the mission solo, I was joined either way, albeit at a much slower pace. We passed a few eateries and indoor smoking room (?) on our way back, eventually plopping ourselves down in a designated seating area. Remnants from my jokbal lunch were hurriedly consumed in the ten minutes preceding boarding time.

I made my way over to the lineup as soon as the announcement was heard overhead.
"Zone 2?" A man approached me in English.
"Yep." I responded with a nod.
"Great!"
As more English-speakers (native and non-native) gathered about the gate entrance, I knew it was time to head home - home to the land of diversity, devoid of language barriers.

​Choices of orange or sparking water were offered in plastic cups after boarding.

​Some time later after takeoff, dinner was served. Meal pre-orders had been unavailable for this flight; by the time I was inquired of my preferences, the braised beef was out of stock. A non-spicy chicken alternative was offered instead.

The chicken and penne were tasty, though not particularly memorable.
Undressed greens were a tremendous relief to behold, for it seemed that leafy greens were a rarity in Korea.

Without a doubt, the Passion Fruit and Coconut Cheesecake was the highlight of the meal.

​Contrary to the inbound flight, where I had hurled for the final five hours of flying, I was equipped with anti-motion sickness medication this time around. As a result, a restful sleep awaited me. Between continuous periods of slumber and finishing the last few episodes of The Witch, the journey flew by - no pun intended - in the blink of an eye.

​I awoke to breakfast in disposable containers and dreary, overcast conditions at Toronto Pearson. 

​My face continued to throb from the pain of mole removal, but I was well-rested and ready to return home.

​The emergence of my browsing partner's friend, with Turtle Chips in tow and GOT7 playing in the car, was definitely a welcome surprise!

1) Weather

Climate conditions varied drastically between “mainland” Korea and Jeju, unsurprisingly given the amount of development in each region. It is also worth noting that Seoul offers a drastic difference in landscape, likely on the opposite end of the spectrum from Jeju in terms of infrastructure and building density/height.
 
Travelling in the second and third weeks of March was a gamble weather-wise. This period had been chosen for a handful of reasons:

1. To not overlap with Lunar New Year (price consideration)
2. To precede peak cherry blossom season (price consideration) but potentially catch buds
3. To enable outdoor exploration without fear of discomfort due to heat

 
Days in Seoul were reminiscent of the West Coast: perfect and brisk in the morning, warm in the early afternoon, sweltering in the middle of the day, then snippy in the evening with the disappearance of the sun.
 
On the other hand, Jeju was utterly unpredictable. Landing in Jeju city, we experienced humid conditions akin to a tropical storm – complete with swaying palm trees. Rainfall levels fluctuated across the island, with more ponding observed outside the city, simply due to the roads being unpaved. For the vast majority of our stay, both Jeju (beyond the city limits) and Seogwipo boasted incredulous winds. In fact, a series of wind warnings had been issued on the second evening of our arrival, with the Ministry ordering all residents to remain indoors.
Jeju leaned on the cooler side, but grew ridiculously frigid with the impact of windchill. Single digits easily dropped to the low negatives once paired with ruthless winds. The entire nation was also taken back when snow descended unexpectedly. Areas experiencing a light layer would be reinstated within a matter of hours, however areas of higher elevation would see persistent depths ranging from one to five inches.
Daytime hours welcomed warmth from the sun, moderating the impacts of snow. That said, winter accessories of hats, gloves, and scarves were non-negotiable at any time of day.

2) Mobility

While Seoul and Jeju can vary mildly to majorly in terms of weather, navigating each district has persistently prominent differences. Seoul can be described as a bustling urban centre, while Jeju a tranquil, nature-forward getaway. Each offered a road and transit network to reflect their unique qualities.

Seoul

a) Transit
Densely populated cities turn to mass transit to move their residents, for the road network would simply be plagued if maintaining a 1:1 vehicle to resident ratio. Besides the Seoul Metro (subway) and bus systems, the network is also supported by AREX (Airport Railway trains) for trips between Incheon Terminal 1 and Seoul Station, Airport Limousines (buses that are priced at a premium for airport service), and GTX/KTX for high-speed regional travel in and out of Seoul from Busan, Mokpo, and Gangneung. Suffice to say, the city is served by plenty of at-grade and below-grade options to keep its residents moving. Of course, rush hour is not to be underestimated, since the high frequency of subway trains does not completely resolve issues of congestion during weekday evening travel.

b) Bus
On our first full day in Korea, we exclusively used the bus system to travel between Seoul Station, N Seoul Tower, and Gyeongbokgung Palace. The bus network enabled a near-seamless connection with minimal walking between stops, though paled in terms of efficiency due to the need for all buses to adhere to the arterials. In essence, an otherwise direct east-west path between N Seoul Tower and Seoul Station was not possible, and would instead require a detour northbound towards Gyeongbokgung Palace, then south towards Seoul Station.
We continued either on foot for most of the day, then took an Uber to the base of N Seoul Tower. When heading back to the hotel, we boarded a night bus, which adopted an interesting sliding door format as witnessed in a handful of melo K-Pop MVs.

c) Taxis
Taxis were decently foreigner-friendly, and both Uber Taxi and Kakao Taxi could be hailed using the Uber app. A separate, Korea-only app was not required. Uber Taxi was evidently geared towards foreigners, with more premium interiors and English signage. Kakao Taxi drivers appeared to predominantly serve local customers; they were gruff in comparison with less pristine vehicles.

d) ​Subway
Amusingly, the second half of our trip was conducted exclusively via subway. Besides taking Uber to and from Guro to appease our luggage wielding concerns, we travelled between Guro, Hongdae, Ichon, and Gangnam on Lines 1, 2, 4, and 9. Lines 1 and 9 (I think) operated at-grade using the KORAIL tracks, while Lines 2 and 4 were predominantly underground as part of the Seoul Metro network. It was worth noting that these Lines utilized different station formats and passenger cars. Some have LED strips near the door to indicate door of egress (Line 2, City Hall station), while some have indicator screens that have arrows to point of direction of egress.

​Transit Card
​
For starters, there was more than a transit card. T-Money was the most widely accepted card, however a handful of tourism videos also mentioned the Climate Card. Further investigations confirmed that T-Money was accepted throughout the nation, but the Climate Card was limited to use in Seoul with a handful of other restrictions. It is worth noting that the Climate Card was time-based, allowing unlimited rides across 1-day, 2-day, 7-day, or 30-day periods, while T-Money operated similar to PRESTO with a loaded value.
But that wasn’t all! Both cards could be purchased as standalone cards or acquired as part of various tourism packages. The incredulous number of options simply made for even more complicated calculations.

Delving into the tourism packages, I discovered the WOWPASS, Discover Seoul Pass, and Korea Tour Card (now obsolete).
WOWPASS supported the functions of a debit card in addition to a T-Money card. The debit card function was restricted to WOWPASS kiosks. While seemingly easy to located via the in-app map, their precise coordinates were outrageously difficult to pinpoint in areas like hotels and major transit stations. Accessing the T-Money functions would be a separate process, exclusive to the T-Money kiosks within subway stations.
The biggest benefit of the WOWPASS was not the built-in transit function though, but the ability to exchange various currencies into KRW at a better exchange rate. WOWPASS machines accepted CAD in $50 bills only, and so I obtained my spending funds in fifties. This is an important factor to consider prior to travelling, as one would be unable to use the WOWPASS machine otherwise.

WOWPASS also provided an insignificant amount of cashback at certain retailers – think 2% for every $10 spent at Daiso. The vendor list was limited, with the only decent find being Innisfree, where you could unlock a bonus 5% off by paying with WOWPASS funds. However, loading the WOWPASS was hardly justified, as credit card fees were double the potential benefit at 10%. Essentially, the only way to take advantage of the WOWPASS was to pre-calculate the amount to be spent, bring cash in one’s home currency (subject to bill restrictions) corresponding to that amount, and load the funds onto the WOWPASS in advance of undertaking a shopping spree. In reality, this is hardly feasible for vacations. Also note that any refunds (cash withdrawals) from an unused WOWPASS balance would incur a fee and be able to be withdrawn in KRW only. There was also a threshold amount before withdrawal could be enabled.
Suffice to say, the multitude of obstacles made this card a challenge to apply strategically.

The Discover Seoul Pass was a tourism pass that included a separate T-Money card for transit functions. Unlike the WOWPASS, the Discover Seoul Pass operated independently of the T-Money card, merely serving to provide free or discounted admission to tourist destinations. Given that the extremely costly Discover Seoul Pass was timed (24 hours (now obsolete), 48 hours, 72 hours, or 120 hours), this option was also unfeasible as we would be unable to recover the value of the pass unless we rushed through every single exhibit.
All factors considered, the T-Money remained the most inclusive option for travelling around Korea. That said, the Climate Card is the superior option for buses and subways in Seoul, especially if one does not intend to take transit in other regions (Busan, Jeju, etc.).
Please note that, in order for transfers within the transfer window to be registered, one was required to tap on AND off for both buses and subways to prevent being charged double fares. I certainly made this mistake the first time around.

​Travel Time and Efficiency

For the most part, our trips were lengthier than expected. Stations that appeared close on the metro map were, in fact, not close at all. Transferring between subway stations was another travesty altogether signage was deficient and underground pathways utterly confusing. Worst of all, numbers were used to identify both egress points (ie. Exit 7) and subway lines. Navigating between platforms could easily take upwards of 15 minutes, and that was assuming one did lose his or her path along the way. Naver Maps’ GPS was disgustingly faulty and often worsened the issue at hand.

​In summary:

Jeju

a) Transit
The abundance of research undertaken leading up to the trip confirmed that buses mainly operated within Jeju City, with any other connections around Hallasan to be infrequent and require double or triple the travel time. Renting a car was the unanimous choice of all visitors, domestic or international, and we did the same. In other words, I cannot extend commentary on Jeju transit as I had only observed the buses (and their perpetually vacant shelters)  from afar.

b) Driving
As mentioned above, renting a car for our time on the island was ultimately the best choice. For this option, obtaining an International Driving Permit (IDP) is mandatory.

A variety of rental options could be accessed from the airport via shuttles. The drop-off point would remain the same when dropping off the car for the return. The total cost of a five-day rental was merely $250 CAD!
It is important to note that, for the purposes of returning the rental car, one must allow a decent buffer time to account for shuttle (in)frequency between the rental establishment and airport terminal.

The island could be traversed along its perimeter or using internal roads the circumscribed Hallasan. During daytime hours, the former provided the most scenic view, but sundown would result in poorly illuminated pathways that safety was threatened. The latter, being larger roads, were supported by streetlights to preserve visibility at night.

Speed limits were extremely low, ranging from 30 km/h to 50 km/h. Thus, while Jeju wasn’t particularly expansive, it was a slow process to get around the island simply due to such speed restrictions.

Geometric design of the roads was interesting: With medians installed throughout, most access points operated as right-in/right-out driveways. Intersections permitting left turns had signage positioned near the signal head, either informing of protected/unprotected left turns or advising whether U-turns were possible.
My Korean vocabulary was not extensive enough to decipher road signs in passing, but my browsing partner later searched up the various forms of the left turn signage.

All of the internal were neatly maintained, with smooth asphalt and distinct pavement markings. Some cross-sections boasted multi-use paths paved with red asphalt, though it didn’t prevent agricultural vehicles from using the space as lay-by parking at times.

Rural roads were, as expected, rural. Narrow, unpaved dirt trails bordered by Jeju lava rock borders weren’t uncommon along the northwest and west sections of the island. For those familiar with driving in suburban and partially rural areas, these roads did not pose much difficulty. That said, inexperienced or infrequent drivers should beware that these farm conditions exist.

3) Navigation

It’s been a longtime fact that Google Maps does not function in Korea. Locals gravitate towards Naver Maps or Kakao Maps instead, but my personal experiences have proven Naver Maps a despicable system.
Besides inconsistent search results, a lack of opening hours, and failure to provide up-to-date destination details, we relied on Google Maps for most of our searches, then cross-referenced when needed. Thankfully, the Jeju rental car featured a modern, built-in GPS system superior to Naver Maps that simultaneously synced with Android Auto.

​4) Infrastructure
​
From the perspective of a tourist, Korea selectively investing in different aspects of infrastructure to support their growth.

a) Lighting
​​​Despite arriving in the heart of the city, Seoul was rather dim at night. There was an obvious deficiency of streetlights even outside Seoul Station, the busiest transit hub in the city.
The exterior was pitch black when we boarded the AREX. It was also difficult to see outside in the N Seoul cable car and subway cars at night. Unlike Toronto, Seoul really wasn’t that pretty at night.

b) Sewer System
Countless street interviews had shown foreigners commenting on the revolting sewer smells lingering in the alleyways of Seoul. With my visit, I could finally confirm their declarations.

The sanitary sewer system is likely undersized for the country’s rapid growth over the past two decades. Instead of installing sewer upgrades in advance of constructing new developments though, the Korean population have taken to, admittedly disgusting, workarounds instead: Toilet paper being tossed into wastebins instead of being flushed.

Behind each stall door was signage advising users of the expected procedure. While large commercial developments such as Lotte Mall supported standard flushing, there remained a decent handful that directed toilet paper to be disposed into a nearby bin. The directions, in turn, led to overflowing wastebins brimming with soiled toilet paper carrying human discharge. Wet wipes were also not to be flushed down the toilet, despite being labelled as being flushable.
​
My fellow Canadian-turned-Seoulite explained the cause being due to “old pipes”, but this was hardly an excuse in my books. Failing to ensure sufficient servicing capacity was a breach of responsibility by municipal authorities and a staggering concern, should you ask me.

Public Bathrooms

At the very least, public bathrooms are prevalent. Unlike in the GTA, one never needs to fear whether a bathroom will be available. More importantly, they are clean and well maintained, even in industrial areas where I expected indoor plumbing facilities to be nonexistent or repulsive. The sole exception was Hongdae, which was clearly tainted by a high volume of foreigners and neglected by uncaring, minimum wage staff.

Older subway stations have a mix of Western toilets and traditional squat toilets. Some stalls were even labelled for children due to being smaller. Accessible washrooms were available in tourist areas, such as N Seoul Tower or department stores, usually separate from the standard-sized stalls.

6) Water Stations

Within airports and tourism destinations, water dispensers (some featuring hot and cold water) could be found easily, usually supported by flimsy paper cups that could cut one's lips if not careful.
​
Public fountains and water refill stations weren’t particularly common. Besides the National Museum of Korea and select washroom corridors within Lotte Mall, I barely saw any water refill stations. This is presumed to be a consequence of most Koreans heading towards cafés for their hydration needs.

​7) Sustainability

​In more ways than one, Korea was a hypocrite when it came to incorporating sustainable measures into their daily routine.

My observations included:

• Sorting recycling was a big deal, but organics did not obtain their own sorting vessel and were simply tossed with landfill garbage.
• Garbage bins were removed from city streets to minimize littering, encouraging trash to be carried to a nearby subway station or brought home for disposal. Exceptions included: Hongdae (with overflowing bins) and Myeongdong, where there were dedicated disposal units for collecting wooden skewers and street food trays. The latter was, admittedly, quite admirable and should be contemplated for GTA’s countless outdoor summer markets.
• Reusable cups were mandated for dine-in customers, but I was informed that staff would not hesitate to waste a cup if the drink was requested to be taken to go after being chosen for on-site consumption.
• Neither hotel in Seoul provided disposable razors, toothbrushes, or toothpaste, but room slippers and water bottles were reliably supplied. Frankly, water was of utmost priority; the former was negligible, since most hotels do not reliably provide those items anyway.
• A shift towards the digital realm and mobile apps to minimize the need for paper, yet T-Money remained a card and not an app.
• Bags were not provided at the most popular tourist shopping destinations in Seoul (Myeongdong and Hongdae), but plastic bags were still frequently provided at no charge in comparatively suburban areas (Guro and Gimpo). In addition, there remained plenty of plastic packaging for clothes (XEXYMIX, The North Face) and accessories (NYU NYU).

At the very least, Jeju was relatively sustainable compared to Seoul, often defaulting to ceramic or glass drinkware and eliminating single-use containers and cups altogether. Plastic packaging was prevalent in any and all convenience stores though.

​8) Tourism

Apparent in my trip research and later confirmed on site, the Korean government had invested a tremendous amount into the tourism industry. The sum enabled countless initiatives by the respective federal agency, Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism – alternatively known as MCST). Among these initiatives were the aforementioned Korea Tour Card (now obsolete) and Discover Seoul passes.

​My Canadian expat provided further details, noting that Korea had not experienced the current wave of tourists and working holiday personalities until recent years and that the government had spent a good deal in implementing English signage throughout the busiest districts in Seoul. She also mentioned how locals were not accustomed to foreigners knowing of the Korean language or even possessing decent speaking and comprehensive abilities. Frankly, I wasn’t sure whether the tone was positive, negative, or neutral, however I’d personally find cultural appropriation and desires to acquaint oneself with another’s culture to be respectable.

a) Museums
​Having left the strongest impression on both my browsing partner and I were the museums. Despite both of us harnessing fondness for distinctly different topics, the museums in Seoul and Jeju were a sheer delight to visit – the true definition of “There is something for everyone”.
Besides being curated exceptionally, admission was either free or very inexpensive. They were also expansive, with seemingly ceaseless areas to uncover (sometimes both indoor and outdoor!), and boasted unique exhibits that incorporated modern-day technology to enhance interaction and convey educational values at a deeper level.
The spectrum of museums available was another noteworthy element of the nation, for there were facilities dedicated to anything from chocolate, coffee, and figures in Jeju to Hangul, war, money, space, and various forms of art in Seoul.

b) Nature Attractions
Consistent with museums, nature attractions in Jeju had also been easily accessible with reasonable prices for admission. One could easily spend several hours roaming a scenic landmark and its nearby connecting trails. The availability of indoor plumbing facilities was another welcome addition, for the same cannot be said about popular GTA hiking destinations managed by conservation agencies or the federal and provincial levels of government. Even port-a-potties were seldom seen – and a risk at that, since handwashing, toilet paper, and basic hygiene weren’t guaranteed.
Aside from bathrooms being available and clean, we also appreciated how visitors were disciplined and respectful of others sharing the space. Overcrowding and trespassing for photos have become second to normal in areas near Brampton and Scarborough, so it was a breath of fresh air to be relieved of such observations.

c) Advertisting

Seoul

In terms of advertising, I would presume those in English are catered towards foreigners, while those in Korean with recognizable celebrities are intended to influence the Korean general public. Popular sightings were: Karina (Sprite, Caffe Pascucci), Byun Wooseok (Kyochon Chicken, OLENS, Ediya Coffee, and more), Jang Wonyoung (More), Cha Eunwoo (The North Face, Shinhan Bank, Ricola), V (Compose Coffee), NewJeans (Korea Tourism, LINE Friends).
Those with local popularity could be identified with Korean brands, while those with global popularity (NewJeans) were associated with areas of high foreign traffic (ie. Incheon Airport or LINE Friends).  
 
The heavy dependence on celebrities acting as brand ambassadors is both impactful yet dangerous, given that a brand's image becomes closely linked with that celebrity, and any scandals will cause harm to both entities. Frankly, the placing of a celebrity on a pedestal garners more interest in the person rather than the brand itself, for many times I was able to identify the colour of the ad and its spokesperson, but gained no information about the brand itself. LED Pillars placed within COEX mall also served the similar purpose of advertising, however the maze of a mall would benefit greatly with more information screens for wayfinding.
It was also confirmed firsthand that Korean media can, indeed, block you should they desire. LESSERAFIM had released a song that was all over my feed upon my return, yet I heard nothing about it at all during my stay.

9) Shopping

True to the declarations of all East Asian travellers, Korea was indeed the best place for shopping. It goes without saying the Korean beauty products were substantially cheaper in their country of origin compared to post-import fees in Canada. Beyond cosmetics though, I was also overjoyed to find great quality apparel and jewellery below my expected price points. Clothing with a decent thread count was found to be about half the price as back home, while beauty products at a whopping one third of the prices to which I’ve been accustomed.

With that said, it is important to be mindful of the stores in which clothing are purchased. Booths near subway stations and standalone boutiques in tourist-heavy areas like Hongdae are known for fast fashion: trendy clothing that may go out of rotation quickly, thus compromising quality to keep prices low. Seeing that I was mainly looking for office-appropriate attire, I adhered to “proper” vendors within Lotte Mall and flagships stores in Myeongdong.

a) Beauty
​Plastic surgery and beauty procedures are topics that cannot be neglected when travelling to Korea. The renowned plastic surgery hotspot of Gangnam lived up to its name with clinics around every corner.

I took advantage of my short-lived stay to book procedures of hair removal + brightening and mole removal. The process was speedy as could be and extremely budget-friendly compared to back home, but service levels and customer interactions paled drastically in comparison. Asking plenty of questions for clarity and readying oneself for the hurried nature of “factory clinics” was crucial to making the most of the treatments. The clinics do not provide all the necessary information for clients to prepare accordingly, nor do they consider the impacts on a customer’s daily life and other schedules following the treatment. Price-wise, I have no gripes; a medical tax refund can be claimed in addition to the lower bill total.

While I would return for more treatments in a heartbeat (due to price and efficacy), it is pivotal to read plenty of user reviews to properly prepare and ensure adequate buffer periods before and after the treatment.

b) Payment Types
In a nation where the use of AI is widespread and unapologetic, Koreans have also been amongst the first to adopt biometric-based payment (outside of mobile wallets). The feature makes for quick and convenient payments, but demands a high degree of consumer awareness in the face of increased risk of monetary and identity theft. Such features are irrelevant to tourists, as we made our purchases in either card or cash.

Cash
​
My balance of $200 CAD from home was converted to 195,000 KRW at the WOWPASS machine. At the end of the trip, roughly $43,300 KRW remained; thus, about $151,700 had been used for T-Money reloads, neighbourhood markets, and instances wherein my fx-fee-free card had been denied.
As for the precise amount of funds left on my WOWPASS T-Money card, I cannot be certain as I misplaced the card after returning. Regardless, I can confidently conclude that transit fares assumed a higher percentage of spendings than anticipated.

​Card
​
Majority of GTA vendors are now equipped to take payment via mobile wallets, such as Google Wallet, Samsung Wallet/Samsung Pay, or Apple Pay. However, Korea lags behind in this department as Samsung Wallet is the exclusive option for mobile wallet payments. Approximately 80% of retailers continue to require payment via the physical chip card, automatically declining the mobile wallet card. Furthering the hassle, signatures were required for transactions over $50. Mastercard was also confirmed to have a higher decline rate (being denied or unrecognized) compared to Visa.

c) Operating Hour Restrictions
Store hours are strange. Most businesses and markets are closed on Sunday, making it the least preferential day of the week for exploration. The remark applies to hotels as well, for The Link’s in-house The Zag bakery received no shipment of bread due to supposedly lower traffic on weekends.
​
Cafés tend to open late (12 PM or after), while restaurants have a tendency to cease operations around 8 PM. For late diners, one must be vigilant about such operating periods as sustenance options after 9 PM are usually restricted to: convenience stores, bars, or grocery stores (if lucky).

d) Retail Initiatives
Luggage storage to incite shopping was not uncommon. That said, luggage storage options at subway stations were far pricier than those of department stores and malls. Businesses had evidently begun to offer these self-serve lockers to encourage spending.

e) Tax Refund
As depicted earlier, tax refunds are divided into two categories: Instant vs. Reimbursement.

​Instant

Instant tax refunds are the singly best option for tourists, for the refund amount is determined on the spot and deducted prior to payment. Instant refunds impose incentives for spending on the spot, as it eliminates the trouble of receipt-sorting and elaborate administrative process later during the trip. Not all retailers offer this service, but it is advised to always bring one’s passport to take advantage of the opportunity as it arises.

Reimbursement

Those seeking tax refund reimbursements must ensure sufficient time to undertake this two-step process at the airport. With at least five different tax refund issuing companies, it can be difficult to find a compatible machine while out and about shopping. The airport kiosks pledge compatibility with all tax refund issuing companies, but constitutes a painstaking process in which reimbursements are credited in cash – mixed currency to boot! – and require queuing several times.

11) Cost of Living

Ten days might not be adequate in drawing definitive conclusions regarding the nation’s cost of living, though I did manage to determine a few inconsistencies.
Our purchases included: Daily necessities (toiletries, water), packaged food (instant coffee, cereal, snacks), and perishables (milk, packaged salad, fruit).

a) Groceries vs. Convenience

• Grocery stores had the lowest prices and best deals overall. Produce was fresher and end-of-day sales were common.
• Convenience stores operated with a 30-50% markup from grocery stores, plus an additional 10% at the airport. This markup likely assumed the cost of convenience, as grocery stores did not operate on a 24-hour basis. Individually packaged produce was occasionally available at convenience stores, but pricier and not as fresh as the grocery store selection.
• 2+1 deals usually served as incentive to buy more of the same produce. While these deals provided value at grocery stores, they had the opposite effect at convenience stores since costs added up quickly and defeated the purpose of “convenience” – ie. Having a standalone meal without the need to lug purchases around with you.
• Bread and buns were not cheap whatsoever; the bakery chains often priced them higher than local spots back home. Nevertheless, buying a single bun was cheaper than buying ingredients and bringing them home to bake – which is consistent with observations in other urban destinations.

​b) Food and Dining

Coffee

• Americanos are horribly expensive. Coffee was oddly bland and full of ice.
• Besides 곁에’s Drip Coffee and Pour-over, all other Americanos were shockingly dismal.

Alcohol

• All domestic beer tasted the same, like a generic lager devoid of character.
• Only the Jeju White Ale was memorable. The Premium Wheat Beer was passable, but I still could not deplete the can’s contents. The non-alcoholic White Ale was far too hoppy to be classified as a White Ale.
• Interestingly, beer in Jeju was more expensive than Korean mainland productions (Cass, Kloud, Terra, Kelly) - 9000 KRW in restaurant and 4500 in convenience store.
• Soju is cheaper than beer overall.
• Alcohol is more expensive in tourist areas

Street Markets

• Hoddeok ranges from $1-$3 ($1 at Shijang, $2-3 on the street); despite being marked up in the tourist areas, it was still pretty affordable.
• Produce prices can vary from Shijang to Shijang, so it is important to consult the local forums before committing to a $20 bag of Shine Muscat.

Dining

• All radish side dishes were very good, whether yellow or white. Pickled adequately, on the sweet side, but neither too acidic nor sugary
• Deep-fried dishes are executed superbly – think Korean Fried Chicken, with an incredibly thin layer of crunchiness between chicken flesh and breading, and Shake Shack Crinkle-Cut Fries.
• Kyochon was super crispy but not greasy. (That said, the greasiness of it all resulted in the runs a few hours later and suffering from satiation to the point where a proper dinner was omitted.)

12) District Characteristics

a) Seoul

Seoul Station

• Huge and difficult to navigate efficiently
• Highest number of homeless sightings (mostly elderly?)
• McDonald’s and Lotteria open late
• Busiest Lotte Mart visited
• GTX terminal was still busy at 10-11PM!

Hongdae

• Filthy with overflowing trash bins
• Reeked of cigarette fumes
• More foreigners than locals
• Rude staff

Myeongdong

• Less filthy than Hongdae but densely populated with tourists eager to spend money
• Street vendors open late, but physical stores, including McDonald’s and CoCo, close at 10 PM.

Guro

• Nice quaint residential area with schools and government housing
• Mainly Korean-speaking + industrial area

Yeongdeungpo

• Mainly seniors
• Not clean: highest number of piled garbage sightings + awful sewer smells

13) People (Age, attitude, language capabilities)

​a) Seoul

• Locals will gaze at you funny if you try using Korean since most understand English
• No one wears sunglasses outdoors, even in blinding conditions
• Business casual is the equivalent of casual
• Claw clips are acceptable for business and going out
• Low ponytails or hair down is the norm
• Baggy pants are common amongst the younger generation, while straight-cut pants for the working class.
• Short skirts are reserved for Japanese tourists, who dress distinctively more preppy with the skirts and layered socks
• Locals move quickly in lineups/checkouts, but walk horribly slow with airpods embedded in their ears. It was concerning to see many subway riders watching videos while going up and down the stairs.
• Commuters on the subway tend to have their heads bent down towards their phones; few people are looking around, people watching.
• A young man saw a girl struggling to return clip onto shelf at Daiso, but did not offer his height/reach to help reinstate position of the clip. Even when she asked, he merely ignored her and walked away, much to my shock. I would have helped her, but was not certain that I could reach since I was not much taller than her, nor did I want to lose my spot in line
• Homelessness: Seoul Station was the only station where elderly homeless were spotted within and immediately outside.
• Driving safety taken very lightly: Driver to ICN did not wear seatbelt for entire duration of 1h drive
• Pedestrians will get honked at for jaywalking or crossing an intersection too slowly
• As a whole, society is disciplined and responsible, but cold and lacking compassion.\
• Obvious agism is present, where elders are looked down upon as non-contributory members of society and children are celebrated (Children’s Museums, dedicated toilets, etc.)
• Smoking is the dominant form of inhalation, as opposed to vape and weed (latter is illegal)
• There are dedicated smoking areas at the airport and areas with high pedestrian traffic (Seoul Station)

My browsing partner either refuses to listen when it comes to navigation, or utterly tunes out my words and observations. While we hadn't missed any opportunities to explore, we had barely eaten on the trip. Even on our final evening, chaos had unfolded: we'd stay up packing until 2:30 AM. Not only that, but the comprehensive documentation/sorting of receipts had been postponed yet again - for the third and last possible time. Needless to say, there was impatience expressed around me, rather than remorse at seeing the unfolding of events.

At the time of check-in, we had been provided two complimentary beverage vouchers for the café located in the lobby of the hotel.

From ZAG Café, we would obtain two Americanos, one iced and one hot. Unfortunately, we were unable to source breakfast buns from the establishment, as stock was only replenished on weekdays.​

​The Americano was decent, though still leaned towards the lighter side of the spectrum. Being mostly ice, I can now comprehend why many Koreans drink Iced Americanos like water.

Based on Naver Maps, across the street was Chosim Bakery. A few minutes later, we learned that Naver had betrayed us - or rather, me, yet again - for the establishment did not exist. I hadn't anticipate a follow-up from the Samsonite incident, but here we were.

​Thankfully, the nearby Tous Les Jours made it easy to pivot.

I immediately gravitated towards the Salted Red Bean Butter Bun. This was a hybrid between Korea's favourite - and awfully prevalent - Salted Bread Roll (소금빵) and Japan's anpan (あんパン). A signature sprinkle of fleur de sel graced the exterior, which was crisp, but not crunchy. Within the bun, a slab of unsalted butter replace the melted cavity of a typical Salt Roll. Tsubu-an, otherwise known as textured red bean paste, was smothered on the inside of the bun, intended to be eaten on conjunction with the butter. Overall, it was found quite delicious, with the butter being smooth and creamy as opposed to satiating. Admittedly, the essence of red bean was rather muted in the combination, exhibiting neither the bean-y-ness nor coarseness characteristic of bean paste. The fleur de sel provided a dainty contrast of flavours.​

Meanwhile, my browsing partner took to a Sausage Bun and Custard Cream Bun.

We headed back to the unit to consume the items, wrap up sorting of receipts, and scramble to finish packing. Just after 12 PM, all luggage was transported downstairs. In the lobby, we witnessed yet another wedding. This would be an important observation for later. The Link was a new hotel under the Marriott family, but doubled as a wedding venue. Business conferences weren't uncommon either.​

Read Part 1 HERE !

​As we kept walking along the corridors of the Yeongdeungpo Underground Shopping Mall, we eventually arrived at drastically more modern building. Named "Times Square", it housed five floors of attractions, with majority of the eateries located on the B1 or B2 levels.

​I could detect a sense of relief from my browsing partner, who regarded uncertainty and aimless wandering in a wholly negative light discordant with my views.

​Into the air-conditioned corridors of the nearby food hub we would wander. The front section of the market housed an alluring assortment of mandu and shimmering jokbal that had me salivating.

Neither small platters nor single serving portions were provided, and so I turned to my browsing partner for support. Jokbal and traditional Korean eats had been the original aim of revisiting Sillim/Shinwon Market anyway.
"We should look around more." came the infuriating response.
I refused to compromise my desires any further and replied in outrage. "No, you always want to keep looking and looking. Eating time will pass and I'll be hungry and never get to eat the things I actually wanted!" This time I was adamant. "You can keep exploring, but I'm going to eat what I want since it's the last day and I deserve at least this."

​We parted ways as a result of differing desires, with me immediately committing to a portion of jokbal that was knowingly too large for one meal. While I wasn't keen on carrying leftovers for the rest of the day, I simply could not allow my last meal in Seoul to be dismal.

​As expected, the coveted item was as glorious as could be: rich in collagen, positively brimming with umami, and a delectable contrast of flavours and textures. Even the sewoojeot, a condiment that was usually salty and dimensionless back home, was delicious. In place of fishiness was an enjoyable brininess. The sauces contributed complexity, while the romaine and perilla leaves a refreshing crunch.

Admittedly, I was quite impressed with my own stomach capacity, though I didn't succeed in depleting the tray's contents.

​Visitors were spotted sorting their trash and refilling water bottles nearby. I followed suit, then wondered why this type of discipline was nonexistent in North America. Any public gathering space permitting dining was guaranteed to be dirty, sticky, and littered with trash. 

Once my solo lunch was concluded, I head out for a quick saunter about the vicinity. The extravagance of Korea's many malls makes them impossible to explore in a matter of hours, for even walking from one end of the shopping centre to another would involve at least thirty minutes (or an hour for the round trip).

Read Part 2 HERE !

An unforeseen mission weighing on my shoulders for the last day was finding a carry-on to re-allocate all of our purchases. The ideal suitcase would be durable, light, and no more than 20 inches in thickness to ensure acceptable dimensions across all airlines. Although Air Canada and most international flights allowed carry-ons up to 25 or 26 inches in thickness, domestic airlines such as Jeju Air would not be so lax in their requirements.

And so, I headed back to COEX after my Tim Hortons stopover in search of said carry-on.

​According to Naver Maps, there was a supposed standalone Samsonite shop located immediately outside of COEX. Although I had my suspicions from the image-less search result, I decided to take my chances anyway.

On the last full day in Seoul, I recalled the existence of my 4-piece Tigre set from the Innisfree Green Café. They had withstood the journey back from Jeju without chilling, but I wasn't about to risk the specimens for a 16+ hour flight back. It became pivotal to consume them prior to our return home.

The packaging was sleek and perfectly giftable. Printed instructions resided within the box in both English and Korea as well. As we readied ourselves for the morning ahead, the box was removed from the fridge and placed atop a warm kettle to thaw.

​Amongst the four flavours, Coffee was the most visually appealing and Cheese the most innovative. It was with regret that I concluded Coffee to be average at best, without even the faintest hint of roasted bitterness present.

Chocolate boasted a smooth ganache; it was tasty, but, by no means, extraordinary. Matcha was similarly flavourful with a smooth ganache, but forgettable. As anticipated, Cheese ranked highest in terms of interest level, boasting a silky ganache and leaning savoury overall with a generous topping of shredded cheddar. None constituted pastries that I'd be eager to repurchase though.

On this day, my browsing partner and I parted ways to pursue individual schedules. This likely wouldn't have been the case had in regular circumstances, however I had plans to meet a fellow Canadian (turned Seoulite) after many years of virtual correspondence. My gratitude was boundless, for, without her, I'd not be able to obtain the various GOT7 albums and domestic merchandise that I owned today.

​The day's itinerary was fluid and entirely up to her discretion, for I trusted her geographic knowledge of the city. After graciously agreeing to meet in the hotel lobby, she led the way to Sillim via the Line 2 subway. We traversed from Sindorim to Sillim station, for she noted Guro and Line 1 to be unpleasant for her (for reasons uncertain).

We crossed over a peaceful park area and waterway. Sunglasses were immediately retrieved by yours truly. On the other hand, my tour guide retained her regular spectacles. I posed the inquiry that had been on my mind: "Do Koreans not wear sunglasses?". The sunlight was blinding after all.
"They do, but only when they are on vacation or trying to cool."
The response baffled me, for cloudless skies during the early afternoon hours could easily contribute to vision damage. My concurrent hope was that locals hadn't found me snobbish for wearing sunglasses during my time(s) of need.

I was guided towards the entrance of the Shinwon Market, a marketplace far grander than Ichon Market.

Read Part 1 HERE !

Prior to visiting Seoul, I had evaluated a number of beauty-related activities. Although many have retold tales of conducting hair appointments, neither the price nor results appealed to me. Further confirming my speculations was a former coworker's personal experience, in which a stylist did not provide scalp protection before hastily bleaching black strands to the shade of pea soup.

Receiving skincare treatments appeared to be the better alternative, as even those hailing from other parts of East Asia admitted to making trips to Korea in the name "advanced technology". Personally, it was the advertised affordability and variety of options that piqued my curiosity. Many Reddit forums had mentioned terminology such as "foreigner-friendly" and "factory clinics", with the former referring to language capabilities of on-site staff and the latter to the cold, eerie presentation of the rooms and their format. Unfortunately, I wouldn't grasp the true meaning of "factory clinic" until my experience unfolded.

After days of research, I landed on Ocean Clinic in Gangnam. Due to hiccups from the previous day though, my appointment was rescheduled last minute for 4 PM on Saturday. This was the last possible spot that could be accommodated, for Ocean Clinic closed at 5 PM. As the staff member from the previous day had advised, I arrived slightly earlier than 4 PM to ensure a timely start and finish.​

​I checked into the front desk, where a white pencil was provided for me to circle the moles targeted for removal. Given that I had arrived with a full face of makeup, it seemed imprudent of me to mark the moles then wash off the markings when I removed my makeup. The front desk staff hesitated for a brief moment, then led me over to a series of lockers. She gestured to a lineup of sinks. Each station was equipped with makeup remover, cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and even headbands to keep bangs out of one's face. Cotton face towels was arranged in a central area for ease of access, with a bin placed in proximity for placing used towels afterwards. On the opposite side of this area was a post-treatment beautification area, complete with Q-tips, moisturizer, brushes, and a hairdryer. Having anticipated none of these elements, I had brought along my own supply of makeup remover and cotton pads, to which I adhered.​

​I was then gestured towards a U-shaped seating area labelled "Waiting Room". There were a handful of other patients in the space, all of which were young East Asian males. Despite their heads of black hair, none seemed to be Korean. I overhead some Mandarin, which led me to believe that they were Taiwanese or Singaporean. The close proximity of the seats in the mixed gender waiting area made the experience a bit awkward, but I was soon left alone as the others were called up by scrub-donning staff members one by one.

There was minimal direction as customers were shuffled into rooms and hastily provided instructions. A staff member clad in a foot cast led towards one of the rooms and provided a sleeveless jersey for me to change into. My belongings were to be left to the side of the room while I tucked myself under the sheets. Everything happened extremely quickly, and I was hardly changed when the doctor came knocking for my first treatment.

​Again, there was no introduction of the procedure. Clad in scrubs and a lab coat, a male doctor proceeded with the underarm hair removal. Goggles were provided for eye protection, but anti-inflammatory cream was not provided unless requested.

I was then whisked towards a second room, where the Pico toning (brightening) treatment was executed by a different male doctor. The process spanned no more than a few minutes, then back into the Waiting Room I'd go.

Read Part 2 HERE !

A part of the reason for rushing out of the museum was our imminent plans to visit COEX Aquarium before my late afternoon appointment in Gangnam. While my browsing partner griped at the supposedly tight timelines, I was of the opinion that slowed footsteps did not necessarily equate to enhanced enjoyment. Moreover, whatever conservative time estimate I had planned for was well beyond exceeded during our excruciating stay.

The subway ride to Gangnam approximated thirty minutes. During this journey, I detailed two options: exploring COEX together quickly then parting ways, or, depending on our eventual arrival, eliminating the COEX experience for me altogether. I listed these options through gritted teeth, for COEX had been one of my POIs from the getgo. Naturally, my browsing partner had forgotten these desires (as well as handful of my other objectives) despite the constant reminders to act with consideration.

​Seoul's underground network is remarkable, with a plethora of access/egress points and even a variety of vendors to accompany one's commute. The observation of a hodo kwaja stall was a delightful surprise find within Dongak station.

Orders could be placed using a kiosk that supported both English and Korean. The language swap was enabled with the push of a button, eliminating errors and delays in communication.
​
The only exception was determining the presence of allergens. Again, the responsibility to inquire somehow fell upon me. While my browsing partner took timid steps back, I was tasked with confirming the presence of peanuts. The elderly man behind the counter looked at me with widened, perplexed eyes. "It's walnut. Walnut!" He went to the back room to retrieve an unshelled walnut to show me. I nodded to show acknowledgement and turned to my browsing partner, still scornful, to relay my findings. The attitude received in response did not justify my efforts in looking crazy to the shop owner.
Conveying concerns over potential cross-contamination was a challenge. Given that no other items on display showed obvious of peanuts though, our only hope was that walnuts were the only nuts on the premises.

While the display case also featured cream buns and donuts, my sole item of desire were the walnut snacks, known as 호두과자. They were available in three flavours in orders of 5, 10, or 21 pieces:

1. Traditional Red Bean
2. Custard
3. New York Cream Cheese and Traditional Red Bean

Needless to say, I sought out the option honouring authenticity.

A 5-piece assortment was served to me in a logo-bearing paper bag. The design was whimsical, with mild references to 2010-esque abstract graphics. 

It wasn't until reaching the north entrance of Starfield COEX mall that the dimply specimens were finally revealed. Moderately crunchy on the outside and still warm on the inside, the soft, spherical snacks made for scrumptious little bites. They were notably larger than Hodo Kwaja back home, and further showcased superior textural contrast. ​Best of all, the five piece set had set me back just 3000 KRW!

In fact, they were so delicious I could barely stop myself from reaching for the next one until my browsing partner piped up, "Save some for me." But I was already on the second-last one. Should I return to COEX, I now know the destination to quench 호두과자 cravings.

​We entered into the mall shortly afterwards, with my hasty footsteps guiding the way. COEX Aquarium was conveniently located steps from the north entrance of the retail centre, with plenty of signage (in Korean, English, and Chinese) to guide tourists and locals alike.

With possession of the Korea Tour Card (obsolete as of March 31, 2025), each adult admission rang in at 23,100 KRW.

Read Part 1 HERE !

​When discussing POIs, the National Museum of Korea was most definitely not within my list of POIs. That said, I wasn't against visiting the free museum.

​The north end of Ichon station was utterly dissimilar from the cozy residential neighbourhood to the south. Air-conditioned corridors with moving walkways and tactile plates already signified an upgrade. The intentionally dim lighting, patterned tiles, textured walls, and ample signage subconsciously summoned visitors towards the museum.

Immediately before the escalators to surface level was even a map installation with colourful, flickering LED lights

The first order of business was to rid ourselves of the soy sauce-stained garbage. A CU was conveniently located outside the museum. Beside it a washroom building, which likely assumed the highlight of my visit.

​​The interior was comparable to that of a Chinese diner, save no eerie sewage odours or tacky floors. I was initially confused about handwashing, for, while there sinks, soap dispensers were nowhere to be spotted. Within the vicinity was a curved rod with a round blue knob at the end. The rod could pivot between two sinks, but resisted lateral movement. The round base to which it was attached also refused to depress. In other words, the contraption possessed neither a button nor a lever.
Determined to decode the device, my hands began to feel around the blue knob. On its underside, it felt sticky. The natural reaction towards a sticky substance is to pull away in disgust. After the initial confusion though, I looked down at my hands to see a white film begin to form. It was soap.

The blue knob was, in fact, a bar of soap...on a stick. Although far from sanitary, it got the job of handwashing done.

Both my browsing partner and I exchanged bewildered recaps upon reconvening outside.

​The outside of the National Museum featured a manmade pond surrounded by grey paver stones, wood-plastic benches, and  minimal shade. On the surface of the pond was a man on a pedal boat-stylized apparatus, likely intended for maintenance.
It is my understanding the outdoor seating was to enable visitors to admire the view from outside the museum, but, frankly speaking, the intensity of mid-day UV rays and lack of shade would have easily banished me into the depths of an A/C-equipped environment instead.

​Shockingly grand was the exterior; modern Korean architecture was noteworthy indeed. If observed from afar, the rectangular cutout forming the entrance served to frame N Seoul Tower and its surrounding mountains perfectly.

Climbing up the stairs, one would find an observation deck and map highlighting nearby landmarks.

Read Part 3 HERE !

Scheduling an appointment for 6 PM in Gangnam on a Friday was not a well-informed decision on my part. I had forgotten that rush hour existed and, if anything, was exaggerated due to the sheer population density in Asia.

It took some time to navigate through Samseong station, given that the signage lacked clarity. Descending down the platform stairs towards the subway was another mission altogether. Swarms of young adults filed down the stairs, pressed against one another like sardines. They didn't seem to mind the lack of personal space, but I did, very much so.
​
While I fretted over accidentally tripping and falling, there were those nearby that continued to immerse themselves in footage playing on their phone while descending down the stairs. It was baffling to see that phones could not put away for even thirty seconds to maintain vigilance in a potentially hazardous environment.

​The interior of each subway car was also packed beyond belief. While TTC-goers may have opted to wait for the next car, Koreans didn't seem to mind squishing into the car. The close proximity was unbearable, but it also identified several aspects of note:

• Firstly, no one reeked. By upholding high standards of hygiene, locals had managed to eliminate foul odours from themselves and prevent inhaling such fumes from surrounding riders. This would not be a reasonable assumption in North America, where clothes are filthy, hair is revolting, and people are generally unclean.
• There is no stealing. Despite being packed tightly in a passenger car, no one seemed to worry about items being stolen from their bags and backpacks.
• No one glances up from their phone or Airpods. Perhaps the only one with their head raised high and soul engaged in the present was myself.
• No one moves aside to allow others to exit, prompting all passengers to resort to pushing through the crowd for their chance. The wave of "Sorry"s and apologetic glances would definitely be unheard of over here.

​The trip via subway was just two stops and four minutes. However, due to Naver Maps' inability to correctly represent cardinal directions on the app, I paced back and forth between exits in search of my appointment location. Despite exiting on the correct side of the street, Naver had informed me I was on the wrong side. Perspiration was inevitable after pacing back and forth between the subway exits and connecting corridors.

​I was due for my 6 PM appointment at Ocean Clinic, a foreigner-friendly beauty clinic in central Gangnam. After reading countless reviews, I became determined to change my reality - or my appearance, anyway. Invasive procedures were not in the plans; underarm hair removal and mole removal were my primary concerns.

A mandatory consultation proceeded after check-in. My needs were discussed with a bob-bearing, blazer-donning lady, while a second member of staff joined to provide English translation services. I was able to understand most of blazer lady's questions and responses, with the exception of vocabulary-specific phrases. Nonetheless, the staff member's English interpretation skills were found to be incredibly speedy and precise.

Small moles were priced at 10,000 KRW each, while large ones at 30,000 KRW each. One session of underarm laser removal plus Pico laser toning (whitening) came to 80,000 KRW. The subtotal came to 450,000 KRW before tax refund, but ultimately cost me one-third of the price I would pay back home. Not to mention, South Korea was at the forefront of medical technologies.

Alas, all discussions would come to a grinding halt when it was discovered that mole removal involved more comprehensive aftercare than I was initially told. Following the "procedure", I was required to apply spot band-aids for a 7-day period, changing once a day for the first 3 days then once every 2 days on days 3 to 7. Clearly, this wasn't the "no downtime" treatment I was expecting.
I was also required to shave one day prior to laser hair removal. Having not done so, the staff recommended heading to a nearby Olive Young to purchase a razor and complete the task before treatment. At hearing this, my brows furrowed immediately. I had no shave gel on hand, the bathroom was dingy and unclean, and, most importantly, I saw no need to bring an extra razor home with me.

In the end, the staff at Ocean Clinic agreed to postpone the appointment to the following afternoon, such that I could shave in the evening and complete my scheduled meetups as planned. Their accommodating was greatly appreciated, for the following day was my last full day in the country.

I informed my browsing partner that the appointment had failed. We contemplated meeting up back to COEX, but seeing queues pour out of the subway station, it seemed appropriate to wait until rush hour had passed.

Consequently, shops in the vicinity were perused:

• Olive Young for CLIO Foundation
• Daiso for assorted household items
• The local pharmacy for Duoderm bandages and skin plasters

​Back at COEX, we collectively browsed Innisfree and a coffee shop by the name of Peer Coffee.

​A pricey Choco Matcha Butter Bar was procured for 5,800 KRW.

It was along the way to the nearest subway station that my eyes fell upon Gyeongbokgung Black. Labelled as "Korean Grill Dining", we entered into Oakwood Premier Coex Center Seoul for a gander.

My browsing partner had insisted that we sample a Korean grill restaurant at some point during our stay, despite neither of us being fans of K-BBQ. Gyeongbokgung, while pricey, would indeed meet the criteria.

​The spectacled young man at the front desk welcomed us within. "Do you have a reservation?" He asked in Korean. I immediately shook my head, not knowing the rest of the stay would require continued use of the Korean language.

He guided us into a private room, then proceeded to hand us menus. "Only grill dining is offered today - is that alright with you?"
I met his gaze and nodded to show comprehension, though my browsing partner would rely on my later translations.

As different members of staff entered to serve us, it dawned on me that it was too late to explain the partial language barrier. And so I felt obliged to continue the act.

Our selection resided with the Korean Beef Rib-eye Course Signature Grill Course. There was a minimum order of two, which would have brought our total to 260,000 KRW. We hadn't given much consideration to the other components besides the Hanwoo main, but our expectations were gradually exceeded with the arrival of each dish.